silverz

Thanks zzzzed I like it too but it is a bit hot in the tropics...... The tops of the door trims have also copped a fair bit of sun damage and are faded and discoloured. I am going to try to match some upholstery paint to it and give it a light spray and see how it goes, though a friend suggested shoe polish for ladies shoes which comes in heaps of colours. I might look into it and give that a go too if I can find the right colour. Regards Peter

I can't give up I will try again

Thanks Lurch I can't make it work, I will wait until my son comes home again (might be days he is out with his girl friend) Regards Peter

I will try again. <a href="http://s725.photobucket.com/albums/ww254/rob082/?action=view&current=SideViewNonoriginalwheelshavebeenon.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww254/rob082/SideViewNonoriginalwheelshavebeenon.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Hi, I have posted quite a few times but never sent any pictures of my car until the other day. I didn't think they came out quite as good as they could have so here are some more pictures. My car is really just a fairly stock daily driver. There are some areas that could be improved as can be seen in these photos which are aprox 18 month old. The car now has NT personalised plates (24OUNCE) though I now live in Townsville. She is quite stock and even has original Datsun front & rear mudflaps and the original AM radio. It does however have air horns which I love (sounds like a train) and Hot Wire mags which I know many will consider very bogan, however they have been on the car since 1974 and are true to the period for an Australian car of the 1970's. I think they look okay though I would like to pull them off some time and detail them properly. I hope this works Regards Peter http://i725 http://i725 http://i725

Glad you like her Zedman, she is a great honest car but not perfect or as "improved" as most of the cars on this site. I will post more photos as soon as I can talk my son into showing me a better way to do it. I am not that happy with the way the photos worked out. Regards Peter

Try again. http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww254/rob082/000_0293.jpg http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww254/rob082/000_0295.jpg

Hi, Nice Silver Z. Looking at it I realised I have posted quite a few times but never sent any pictures of my car. So here is yet another silver 240Z, they must have made heaps of them in silver! My car is not as flash as many. It is really just a fairly stock daily driver. It is not up to the standard of the beautiful cars I see on this site, however the Darwin Wet season light in these photos seem to suit. These photos are aprox 18 month old. The car now has NT personalised plates (24OUNCE) I will need to register her in Queensland soon and will not be able to use these plates unfortunately. She is quite stock and even has original Datsun front & rear mudflaps and the original AM radio. I this works out I am new at posting photos. Thanks Peter 000_0293.jpg 000_0295.jpg

Steve, I live too far away to help unfortunately, however I hope this info helps. When I first got my 240z it was running way too rich. I talked to so called Carburetor experts who told me to chuck the 240z Hitachi carbs as they are no good and will always run rich etc, their suggested cure was to buy British su's @ $800.00 for the pair with additional costs for fitting. I was a little taken back at this and started reading the Haynes workshop manual and all articles on the internet as I was going to sort this out myself. I played around with it but was too scared to get too serious. luckilly a friend of my wife's came up to Darwin to visit with her husband who had a fair bit of experience on British su's. He helped me set my carbs up so it ran much leaner and the car pulled stronger, even though he couldn't get it quite right as it had a bent needle in the front carb - even better he taught me how to tune them myself. Since then I have replaced the needle in the front carb and re tuned the carbs by myself. I was very happy with the results and when I moved back to Townsville I got the same friend to check my work, he only made a very slight adjustment to the mixture on the front carb. He was impressed with my work and I have to say it really isn't that hard. I say read up on it and have a go yourself. Make sure you have all the linkages etc and they operate properly and check the float levels on both carbs and reset if necessary- the Haynes manual will show you how to do this. Also ensure both pistons move freely when you lift them with your finger and they drop properly with a definite click noise. If they don't you will need to ensure the needles are centred properly. When you fit them have a go at tuning them yourself. The only fancy tool we used was a "su tuning hose" ( a metre long length of plastic tubing, cut off a roll I think was left over from when we had a water bed) We used this hose to listen to each carb and adjust the balance with the throttle adjusting screws until the sucking sound was the same in each carb. Simple but it works. Anyway I am no expert but some of the people in these links I have attached obviously are there is some very good advice in these articles. Seeing as you are not going to do the job until March you could pick some info out of these before you start. I hope this helps, I don't know much about the science of carburettors but it all seems quite simple providing you are patient and set them up carefully. Let me know if you want me to explain how we adjusted the mixture etc. Regards Peter http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/su.html http://www.ztherapy.com/ http://www.teglerizer.com/sucarbs/techtip6.htm http://www.teglerizer.com/sucarbs/techtip6.htm http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/tech/SUTech/sutech.html

No looks like the chrome strip is all there alright. I always look as unfortunately half of mine is missing. Nice looking car good luck with the sale. Regards Peter

Is it my imagination or is the chrome strip missing from around the windsreen? anyway nice looking car is it a manual or auto? Regards Peter

HS30-103694 240Z 9/1973 Engine No: L24-189620 Current Engine No: L24-081579 Transmission: 5 speed manual Differential: R180 Original Paint Code: 306 Current colour: 306 Interior colour: Red Owner: Owner Details Private. Location: Northern Territory - Australia HS30-103694 240Z 9/1973 Chassis Prefix: HS30 Chassis Number: 103694 Manufacture Year:09/1973 Original Paint Colour (306):Silver Original Interior Colour:Red Manual Or Auto:Manual Owners Name: Peter Current State Vehicle Is In:NT On Road / Daily Driver

Hi ans welcome Cazbee, Great choice of vehicle! Where abouts in Malaysia are you from? Regards Peter Darwin NT

Here in Darwin the only thing I can get on the 240Z original AM radio is ABC Radio National and they hardly ever play music, normally just a bunch of intelectuals blabbering on. Lucky I have the noisy diff/rear wheel bearings to listen to. Regards Peter

Finally sorted this issue out. When the Carbies were way too rich the car ran fine with the vacuum advance not working. However when we leaned it out, she ran fine while accelerating but took a prolonged time to warm up and run properly (even in Darwin's warm weather) and it would misfire and surge and generally run like crap when driving slowly with the throttle only slightly open. This made it really difficult driving in the Army Barracks (40Kph limit) and even when cruising at anything up to 110Kph. Turns out a clip was missing where the vacuum advance fits onto the post attached to the points backing plate, so it couldn't advance as the vacuum advance mechanism would come off the post. I think there is supposed to be a very small circlip holding the vacuum advance mechanism on the points backing plate post - can any one confirm this? Anyway for now I have secured it with a small speed nut. The car now gets to a diveable state much quicker on initial start up and runs without missing, spluttering and surging at low throttle openings. When you put your foot down the response is sharper also. Hopefully this info may help someone else with similar issues. Regards Peter

Same thing happened to my car, passenger side Head light worked but was very dim. Turned out to be one fuse in the fuse box inside the car had fallen out of the fuse holder. I don't think there are any other fuses under the bonnet, at least not on my 240Z. Recheck your fuses, remember there is a Left hand headlight fuse and a Right hand headlight fuse. Regards Peter

Got mine today, they are prompt!

Don't worry Spartan Warrior there is hope for all, I live in Darwin and I sold my Ute when I got the Z ! Have you got the new Z yet? Regards Peter

Steve, I got a Dash mat for my 240z from Protectomat in W.A. I bought it in July last year for $50.00 for the mat plus $11 delivery to Darwin. They sent it promptly, it fits well and looks good, I like the way it moulds around the guages. Like you I like to protect the Dash from the sun, It can be pretty fierce in Darwin and I can't always keep the car in the shade. Protectomat have a website www.protectomat.com.au however I couldn't make the link work to contact them through the website so I rang them on (08)9370 5088 ordered and paid for it over the phone with my Master Card and it was here the next week. They also have a fax number (08) 92725513. I hope this helps Regards Peter

Thanks for the advice. I tried sucking on it when I first pulled the ball bearing out. I could make the spring that moves the plate under the points contract, but I couldn't suck hard enough to move the plate. Regards Peter

Looks like a great car, can't wait to see it in the NT, Regards Peter

Hi, I have had some dramas tring to get the timing right on my 240z. In my efforts to sort it all out I found the vaccuum hose from the manifold to the distributor was blocked off with a ball bearing. I removed the ball bearing and set the timing etc. I then finally had it running well at medium to high revs but it was harder to start than before, had a huge flat spot when taking off from idle and when you let the revs drop to change gears etc. Cruising down the road, the car would jerk and surge and sounded like it was misfiring slightly. It ran great if you were accelerating however. I have blocked the vaccuum hose up again and now it starts easier, the flat spot is gone, pulls much better from low RPM and the surging and jerking is gone. A friend has told me without the vaccuum advance working it will never run economically etc. Has anyone else ever come across this issue? should I just leave the hose blocked up or do I need a new vaccuum advance unit to make it run at it's peak? I am finally happy we have the carbies and the timing right. I just need to sort this last issue. When you set the timing you can see the mechanical advance is working as it advances under acceleration. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Peter

Thanks for the useful advice, I went and had another crack at it, and this is what I did. Pulled the points off and put them back on making sure they were positioned correctly set points gap at 20 thou and secured points. Sprayed WD spray under the points backing plate and made sure it was moving freely for the mechanical advance/retard. Applied grease where I could so the plate would slide over it when mechanical/vacuum advance/retard operates. Checked vacuum tube to vacuum advance, found ball bearing in tube blocking it off (I didn't put it there so it's been there since I owned the car) Removed ball bearing and sucked on the tube, couldn't make the plate with the points on it move but could see the spring from the vacuum unit contracting. Left hose off to set timing. Put Dizzy Cap etc back on and started the motor, had to move the distributor position immediately to keep motor running as it was now way too far advanced. Set timing using the definate groove in the pulley as the mark (can't find any painted line) set timing at 17 deg (suspected this would be too much advance but decided to use it as a start point as that is what the owners manual says) Reattached vacuum hose. Went for test drive. Pulled cleanly from low revs though still very slight hesitation from idle. No pinging even when up hill accelerating in third gear at 1000 RPM. Hit the Highway and gave her a burst through the gears, pulled cleanly up to 6500 RPM, next thing I know I am seeing triple digits on the MPH speedo. Quickly slowed down before something silly happened. I think it is going alright now. The slight hesitation may be a slightly bent jet needle in the front carb which we think may have damaged the jet as well. I am sourcing these items at the moment. I will know for sure once I have driven it for a week, the early mornings were causing drama last week, required prolonged warming before it would go. Thanks for all the advice, After this I am definately considering changing to electronic ignition. Thanks all, Regards Peter

Hi, After driving around for a week I am still not satisfied the car is going right. It hesitates initially under acceleration, sometimes backfires then takes off, though feels flat and not as responsive as it should. I still think the timing is not right. I fiddled with the points gap again today and this has made no difference. I now have it on 18 thou. There is a painted mark on the timing pointer plate attached to the engine that looks like it is at 17 deg (as per the timing settings in the owners manual) I have advanced the distributor as far as it will go but the marks on the pulley still will not line up. Any less advance it runs like crap. Clearly I have done something wrong, does anyone have any ideas? Regards Peter

All sorted now, the problems were that the points weren't fully home at the top, the screw was tightened without the points plate fully home and the small lead (low tension lead) to the points had a short in it. These little things make a big difference. Points gap now 22 thou and timing 12 deg advance at idle. Nice and crisp performance and even though I think she still runs a bit rich our work on the Carbs has increased responsiveness and it doesn't smell anywhere near as fumey. The Carbs seemed very simple to tune, provided you use the cool listen to the tube trick. My friend is impressed with how Zeds go.