nat0_240_chevZ

Will hear up for next round shortly guys. apologies for any last PM's as my notifications were not working 100% of the time. Pm for details and specifics. Cheers nat0

Sinisha, there's an awesome cast unit on hybridz but in the you essay. . Have a browse, see if it interests you Nat0

Next in the list guys , time permitting. Been tough with the 2nd lil'ee but who am I to complain. Now the weather is fining motivation is increasing etc Progress may happen shortly.... Watch this space.

3d scan it for for informative purposes Pete. Can be expensive, but if you have a contact can be done cost effectively. If you were here in SA I could assist/ arrange. Especially if you need to make anything if its not serviceable, or has an element complexity. our if there were to be any future failures. (which I doubt if course ) Nat0

and my front rails have the provisions for the stock tray to mount to aswell, i totally forgot why i put those M5 things in them. so yea, i can confirm the stock splash shield uses 4x M5 bolts to hold to the lh & rh front rails, and i think 3 more on the lower rad support. Just an FYI incase you couldnt pick it up from that lovely pic above. nat0

cheers Hurtle, networking always pays off! cheers Nat0 Coung, Have you had a chance to check the rails out yet, after they arrived? Which beast will these baby's be going on your yellow RB26dett Monster? do you still have this car? Nat0

Thanks Richard. I can't believe how quick they are all getting delivered..... Cheers for the update.

Spare set available, let me know if you need. Nat0

Gav I have some of these pieces your after. Underneath where the slam panel spots to. Ill need to send you some pics off my phone. I made three types of pretty much the same section, but it changes to three diff profiles. 1. Most outboard, no top lip, slope down, bend down around the edge of the taillight. 2. A little inboard from the edge, has top lip and the slope down, fold down and lwr lip for the tail light cutout. 3. Top lip, slope down and fold down only, this is where the back panel tapers towards the number plate flat area near the two shut panel supports either side of the latch. Ill grab my phone and post some now. To show you. Nat0

Hi have I've just done this too. I have some pics of the nasties lurking below. I also have a couple of generic sections to replace the back panel /tail light panel I made up, which I just sectioned to suit, mine was a tricky repair, but I made it harder by where I chose to section the panel s. Re made all the factory over laps and juggles manually. But came up a treat, I'll post a couple pics from the repair tomorrow. Nat0

Sorry all, been sick. Flu, then cold then a throat, can't get a break. But just pulled a late night to get the front rails underway, Still some work to do on them but the floor support rails are ready to go. I'll msg those guys shortly. Nat0

Hi Cuong, Ill let you know, currently forming up the front rails for those who wanted the hole hog. Its hard to say at present, but ill be in touch to advise if there is likely any left-overs. I am surprised, as I even made a couple of extras and these may already have been spoken for. Cheers for the heads up, at least i know ive got you in reserve. cheers Nat0

ok, now thats all sorted, please not freight bookings have been made for those who know who you are. REMEMBER, you must post pics up of your install, when you get around to it. this round has the lil weld in infills held nicely together by a little metal frame (like a car/plane model kit no glue req'd ), taped to the insides of the rail. I look forward to your public feed back. Thanks to thos whom already have posted up their install pics, namely Billy & Sinisha. Cheers Nat0

careful replating too. can cause them to become brittle!!!, even with the pro's, unless they explicitly 'degass' them. look up 'hydrogen embrittlement zinc plating' on Dr-google!!!! But again, for $3/kg for plating it can be done cheaply with good results!!! (+ GST of course!!!) but I aint letting out any secrets as to where!!! nat0

NOTICE ALL BUYING RAILS. Please note the acc# supplied, is incorrect, do not make any payments until I have advised the correct last digit. sorry, I am an Idiot...must have been tired!!! nat0

Rails have all been folded. Just need to firm up delivery /freight costs to some of you and then get them on their way. Any Qs please advise. Nat0

lots of PM's sent out to those with 'Indicated Interest' Got stuck At 10 pms and locked out ..... 'Jap metal' I didnt get a chance to reply......Ill send you one shortly. Cheers Nat0

make sure you dont get the blasters to prime, BEFORE you get a chance to inspect. They are well known for only lightly blasting and painting over the rest....... I still love the clean & strip discs on a 7" buff and use a dust mask as there is heaps, but it does the job pretty quickly, doesnt grind back the steel like sanding discs will do @ speed!, and I even purposefully heat up dented in areas until the dent, just pops out, due to the selected shrinking!! more of a knack to it than i make it sound. nat0

ok, guys, Just updating and advising all rails have been cut, hope to form up and have ready for despatch this/next week. all those that are in PM me, or ill contact you directly. Only a few spare sets at this stage pending confirmation. I will repeat these are only for the 240z, and are 'Full length' Floor rails, from TC mount right to the back of the floor and connects up-to the rear sub-frame (front diff mount/LCA mount box section) Cheers Guys. Nat0

man...I got 2 of these babies Gav! well done on the sale. Nat0

Happy to discuss this with you in a separate thread, to keep this one clean / clear. On a relevant note, I can confirm the front engine bay rails have the holes & mounts for the front cross member, sway bar and tow hook locations all cut and/or marked precisely to where they really need to be for a perfect fit. Otherwise there are a 'few' holes, which are used by the factory for jig alignment/sub-assy when made. be sure these have been extensively measured and verified on several 'good' examples of the 240z & 260z chassis. Reason for rail changeover is for either of these reasons, starting from the most obvious reason -Accident damge, ie a Kink, tear or bend/bow or crumple in the rail, box section -rust or other degenerative condition ie battery acid eating the old one. -replace/re-fix a previous dodgy repair -rail strengthening for race/rally/modfications -for shits n giggles

clean them up, and get the UT (ultra sonically tested) to check depth of bore-wall, before you even start the machining process on the block. best and only way really, otherwise its guesswork. and to think i let go an F54 with a P90 for only $400 to Daihmin some years ago, here in Adelaide too!!! nat0

ok guys, we are under way, for probably what looks to be the last run for quite some time. Based on that, I am making a couple of extra pairs, but at this rate unsure as to how long they will last. I really do appreciate the interest and push of these rails, it started out as a need for my self, to make good items, which were not available to this std. And now to be able to help out some of these cars get back into a tidy state and on the road, as it pains me to see them getting pulled from the road and/or parted out. I have a 2+2 on loan, whilst im waiting for the sheets & blanks Ill try to push them along, no guarantees however. Below is a short list of whom is on the waiting list. these guys will get preference no matter what:- -Jap Metal -zed74 -Gav240z -24TZ -zzzzed -abzcar260 -ackent1 for the 'other' enquiries ive had of late, added below to keep track of what I work on next, 'IF' i get the time. Those wanting, 'IF' available, 260z 2 seater floor rails:- -RaZed -Old Man Z (need to confirm year and Qty of seats) Those wanting, 'IF' available, 260z 2+2 seater floor rails:- -Iceberg x2 pairs floor rails (plus lwr rad sup't) -benn.greg

Due to all the above I 'heard' about the crs units i made myself, from scratch the engine mount brackets and gearbox cross member. It took ages and many attempts to get it spot on but I am more than happy with where the engine ended up aswell as the gearbox fit & position. as these were my main concerns, I had 2 optional positions of the engine (height was made to be as low as possible and does not change between) the std (front to back) & 50mm rearward (just enough to leave approx 30-40mm behind the head to the firewall) Only problem is my application was specific to the earli'er S30 chassis g-box mount which is outlined in another thread. There are also other option in regards to what engine mounts you will continue to use, ie the stock'ee items or captive units with stiff urethane or another oem unit. I stuck with stock mounts as its suited my interchangeability requirements for later down the track. All things to be concerned with, for sure. Then there is sump, another can of worms, pending your specific application of your car etc etc. Look up some old threads on the forum re the mounts, you will find pics and all..... nat0

rails for 240z only at this stage. sorry guys with 260z 2 seater and 4 seaters. the amount of hours to finalise development for them will not fit into my time-line. apologies. nat0