twosixty

I got them from allzparts. The boot was about $80 from memory.

I'm interested if you go ahead with it.

Is this still on for the queensland mob?

Sounds good

I might be interested. When available, could you throw a pic up of one installed or sitting in place? What is the hole in the middle for?

3m products are expensive because they work. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Automotive/OEM/Prod_Info/Catalog/?nid=2TVWVVKZFFbeV0141B40KNgl

Interested to see the finished product! Don't see many 260c's on the road anymore.

I reckon you'd find a roadworthy 240 for 10k, 260 2 str would be in better nick for the money. I think it is important to be patient, once you get sick of waiting you'll end up buying the first piece of crap you find.

I've got the des hammil one (first link). The dhla and dcoe carbs are really silimar, so the processes described don't really change too much. I don't think that there would be much difference between the two books to be honest.

Hmm, good point.

If he smashes up car = still has no money to fix the bonnet, and (slim) chance it wasn't him + witnesses of rage. Leaves note = possibly get money/insurance, still has option of smashing stuff.

If a previous owner has twisted the shafts to correct airflow between cylinders it should be reasonably obvious by either measuring the edgle of the butterfly to carb face or putting a light behind the carb and seeing any difference between butterflies in the two throats. Obviously you will need to take the carbs off to do this. If this is the case, you could try and twist the shafts back to something close to the same, or buy new shafts. I think that if you need to correct flows, and do not have an air bypass, I'd personally be inclined to try small drill holes in the butterflies away rather than twist the shafts. Twisting the shafts will screw with the progression holes, whereas holes through the butterflies (as long as they are away from the progression holes!) wouldn't be as bad? Anyone agree with this?

Were you getting consistent readings on the same cylinder with the meter?

Not a chance. Centreish of the firewall. Can be hard to see...

I should be picking up some 45s in the next fortnight, So I will most likely be after some of the gear you have, though I haven't even looked at what tune venturi/jetting I'll need yet. What setup did you end up on with your 45s?

Bad day much? To the OP, you really need to give it some thought and try to get some direction. Its no good taking suggestions that will determine the next number of years of your life from people on the net who know nothing about you. It is never to late to change.

Looks good. Lot of time/work has gone into those. Kudos for the write up too! +1 on being careful with the MEK, it is a carcenegen.

Doors are different, inc innards (regulator, door release linkages etc). Lock mechanisms can be changed, though i believe there are two different types depending upon the vehicle year, visually very different.

My 75 did not have an electric pump, nor the wiring etc.

Sounds like a pretty good deal to me. I've been getting a few quotes of late, mostly from places that mostly do resto work and I'm looking at 6k-8k without going back to bare metal everywhere, 2pack, not a dramatic colour change. There is some rust & panel work included with that but nothing too major. All I'm doing is stripping trims, glass and interior.

That is a beaver panel, this is available as a weld in rust replacement panel. Try Rare Spares, Black Dragon etc

I doubt it would be the heater tap, it is on the drivers side from memory, making it difficult for any leaking water to make it to the passenger side over the trans tunnel. I vote the hatch seal.

Front is a dead ringer of a stingray. I'm glad it turned out the way it did. Like the 70s RA28 celica, it will always look like a small underpowerd rip of a mustang, rather than it's own 'look'.

According to my memory of internet lore, shorter tubes=more hp , longer tubes=more torque. NFI on whether this is true or a complete load of bollocks.

:o I won't. Though AAMI and I have had some issures seeing eye to eye in the past. I'll never deal with them again by choice, though I'm sure 99% of insurance companies do exactly the same thing. Is it just me? or would anyone else be majorly upset with that solution? Isn't there some sort of register now that keeps a record of vehicles that have have been flooded? Or is that only if the vehicle is a write-off?