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twosixty

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Everything posted by twosixty

  1. Ouch. It does look like a pretty clean example (Has just had a wash though) Photo Tag: Tafe Car Park on Nathan Ave Ashgrove flooded when Ithaca Creek overflowed.
  2. Thanks Lurch for going to the effort of writing this up. This will very helpful to those who want to do this swap. Cheers Luke
  3. I think it was lucky in this case that 240z_au isn't new to zeds. The responses from this thread were hardly welcoming. I don't know 240z_au, but I have seen his nic around datto forums for years. If it was a 'new' prospective zed owner I doubt they would be coming back. Can we keep this in mind when we respond to new threads? Just a thought...
  4. PZG302, Thanks mate, that sounds just like what I'm after. Cheers Luke
  5. Yeah I'd be interested too. Im at the point at which I should really start looking for some panel and paint work. Any suggestions or recommendations in Brisbane, or surrounding areas? So smash repair chains aren't the go then? Makes sense I guess, easier to replace panels on newer cars etc. Cheers Luke
  6. Hey, It should be fine, I've been told that the patrol's sump is slightly larger than the zeds, don't know whether this is a problem or not. If it is, you can just swap the sump over anyways. Cheers Luke
  7. I'm pretty sure the gem parts one is the redline manifold. I'd also be interested if anyone knows of any other types available in oz...
  8. I have a service manual pdf for the r32 gtr. And numerous pinouts for ecu Whole thing is a bit big at 30ish meg. Wiring only is at least 2mg Though apparently I can only upload 300k as an attachment... Whats an easy way to up them? Cheers Luke
  9. They look great. Count me in.
  10. Looks great. Wish I'd have been there. Only 2 years to go to the next one?
  11. I'd also be interested in the details. Anything tricky with the handbrake? Luke
  12. Don't know of a particular book, but most of the bits you've mentioned can be removed fairly easily. Door handles can be removed by the two (8mm ?) nuts on the inside of the door, remove inner skin, wind window up and you should be able to reach them. Chrome strip above door? On the body? This may help... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24727&highlight=remove+chrome I got told that the quarter windows are okay to remove, but incredibly difficult to re-install with new rubber. So only do them if needed. :shock: I haven't tried this, it's only what I was told by a gent that had done more than a couple of them. Don't know how to remove the c-pillar badges... :oops: Are you painting? Luke
  13. Yeah I took mine out late last year to replace the heater core, valve and missing air ducts. Removing the dash was a pain and led to a LOT of "While I'm here..." so dash stayed out for about 3 months :oops: There are a few walkthroughs on the net for removing the dash, but it isn't super difficult. Just label all the connectors, bag the bolts n screws, and hope there aren't any dodgy PO repairs... Good luck :wink: Luke
  14. It should, although there were changes in the heater box & controls in later 260z's. My 75 has the 240z heater box, that is, cable controlled and a coolant valve. I understand that the later 260 models have some wierd vacuum controls?? (Please someone chime in here cause I haven't seen these). What year is your Z? Maybe you can swap the whole assembly is it does not match... Luke
  15. There is one on ebay at the moment. Or you can skip the auction and just buy one from allzparts. Does Nissan still stock them? ...yeah i know thats funny) Good luck Luke
  16. I've also been on the hunt for a set of triples for a while now. Mikuni did make solex for some time, thats why some are branded Mikuni - Solex. I've pretty much ruled out solex as I haven't found a supply of replacement parts locally. This leaves dellorto & weber. Dellortos have a diaphragm accelerator pump whereas the weber design uses a piston. Apparently this means the dellorto has better throttle response, especially down low. The last sidedraft weber (DCOM came after the popular DCOE) has been said to have "copied" the dellorto design. Anyways it being the last designed you would assume it was the most refined. Webers are MUCH more tunable than dellortos, but the way I see it this means you really have to get it right. Yeah, I keep hearing that linkage is a very important, requiring quality parts & setup. I've been told that even though parts look similar, parts are not interchangable between makes... Manifolds, in AUS I can only find (new) Redline manifolds www.redlineauto.com.au who you can buy through zspares, allzparts etc for about $350 not including linkage. Now some questions: Is it easier to incorporate the linkage using a cable or the standard accelerator rod? Ive heard of people having trouble with the vacuum advance when using triples, how, why, what can you do to remedy? Thanks Luke
  17. hmm, I've removed the console and speedo etc from a 280zx wreck. But that was a while ago and I remember I was there for friggin ages. I prolly wasnt being very gentle with it either. I dug out my old service manual for the zx and it reckons that... 1. remove steering wheel & column cover 2. Remove instrument lower cover on left side. 3. Disconnect speedo cable at intermediate connection. 4. Disconnect combo switch to get the rest of the console out Soz, I dont have a scanner to show you the diagram. Good luck Luke
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