twosixty

Remove or cut dust shield ( I removed them) Slight bend in one of the lines. Done. So yeah, it is about as 'bolt on' as you get.

If it spins really freely when spun by hand (5+ish rotations) when the engine is cold fan coupling needs a rebuild. It should spin up fast on start up, and slow down after a 5 minutes.

Ah ok. Looks good btw. Bet you can't wait to fire them up.

The jet inspection cap on the centre carb is on backwards. Is because of the braided fuel line? Can you rotate the banjo around a bit more to get some more clearance for the fuel hose? I guess it doesn't really matter I suppose.

Mikuni PHH bodies are no longer made. They still make plenty of other carbs. Not sure about the spares for PHHs. Webers are still manufactured, though they are now made in Spain. Allegedly the quality is not the same as the original Italian product. Dell'Ortos are no longer made, although parts are still reasonably available from O/S generally. OER are still pumping out new sidedrafts and parts. You can always choke down the larger bodies (to a degree) With 40s you will probably be running close to the largest venturi (35-36mm?) that the 40s can hold. With 44/45s you will have room to move up if needed.

Anyone still want to do this?

I can't remember if I got genuine or aftermarket, but I remember that they were damn expensive. Porsche style synchros with a similar pricetag. Another helpful post from yours truely.

I remember religiously checking tradingpost and the paper twice a week for ages, got the irits looking for a 240 and got a 280 instead. So much easier now with everything on the interwebs

I've never realised these were so rare and saught after. Sooo Any interest in one that has a dent in the back of it? ...and no it wasn't me, it was bought like that.

I've made 5/8ths fit. From memory one end (front of block) is a larger fitting, and requires angry faces, random swear words and hot water to make it fit. There is probably some adaptor to do it properly though.

Plugs>Leads>Dist cap In order of likelihood

lol, good question. wtf was I on about?

Nah, I'll use the 6x9s I have now.

I'm good when you are. Cheers

Argh, I lost my post. Firstly for the sake of $15 I would replace the thermostat, or at least test it. I don't agree that it is necessary for a 30 year old datto to run hot all the time, even in a Brisbane summer. I've got jetcoated headers, non-vented bonnet and a non-shrouded fan. It doesn't run hot. Bonnet vents will be helping a lot more that ceramic coating the exhaust manifold. Is it possible that you are running lean? Do you get a lot of overflow coming out through the radiator cap/drain?

Are those reading from the gauge or a thermometer/heat sensor you have added?

Dunno when the change was, but my 75 has the ammeter/fuel gauge

I doubt it? The look completely different? nb Keep in mind that I've never been up close and personal with a 2str 280zx, and it's been a loong time since I sold my 280zx.

From memory (and this was a few years ago), when I removed the towbar on mine the single bar that run under the fuel tank made a close to 90 degree bend, with two bars in a v shape attatched with bolted plates (maybe 75mm square) to the an area near the spare wheel well. Less than ideal design as far as the 90 degree bend, but pretty beefy bar to accomodate.

Wow, I would have thought it would have been more than that. Who is that through? Please excuse the thread hijack Kev333

Looks good. Nice hat.

Sirpent's additions sound like he's done it a few times! As I said I've only done it the once, but I think its easy to save a couple of hundred dollars. Re the chrome strips, I put them in the seal first before putting the seal on the car. Is this the correct way? Isn't there a specific tool to put them in?

I think it is worth having a go yourself. I got the rear hatch done by a windscreen guy. Then later I had a go at changing the seal on the windscreen. For any minor rust spots I just gave it a bit of a clean up and put some zinc paint on it. I'm sure there is more on about this on the net somewhere but here are some simple steps... Get a mate. Put seal on screen/hatch. Grab some 6-8mm rope/cord, (smoother the better). Push it in the gap in the seal (where it will sit in the body) Have the ends at the top centre of the screen. Put a sikaflex sealer or similar on too if you choose to use it. Dont have to. Sit screen on car. Sit inside the car and slowly pull the cord out of the seal, this will pull the rubber seal over the body lip. Get your mate to apply some gentle pressure on the screen. Work your way around the screen. Hey presto.

Hilux calipers were about 5.1 kg unloaded. Datto sumitomos were about 4.4 loaded.

Yeah the dcom's copied the diaphragm pump style from the dellorto dhla carbs, But still similar to the dcoe's. I'm bias (I have 45dhlas), but I'd lean towards the dcom's as they are the last refinement. At the end of the day the tuning and jetting of either type of carb will determine how successful it is.