twosixty

+1 Grazed knuckles, sore back replacing/upgrading front diff mount and it still has a clunk...bastard

Dazda has a good link to a Penrite release re zinc in the following post http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,7590.msg82039.html#msg82039

Up for sale is 4x Sound deadener Sheets - bituminous sticky-backed (Sheet size 1.2m x 600mm x 3.5mm thick ) These are made of rubber and are very dense. Good for firewall, transmission tunnel, inner door) Bought these new for about $60ea 18months ago. Been sitting around ever since. All four are yours for $120. Pick up only (pretty heavy for postage/courier).

Very cool.

Plastic polish. Mothers do one. Time consuming but it works.

You can have a look at this, which should answer some of your questions re intake bellmouths and distances to airbox/airfilter. http://www.bgideas.demon.co.uk/tmanual/Tm_Ch2.pdf They give a rule of thumb that you should allow at least the bore diameter gap inbetween the end of the ram tube and the airbox (KN filter in your case). There are also plenty of information and calculators available on the net about optimum runner length measured from valve to airbox (or air supply with assumed zero velocity). Considering the importance placed in having a fully rounded bellmouth, I would assume that a filter sock over ram tubes would severly reduce the speed of the air coming around the bellmouth, negating any positive effect that it would provide. That said, we are probably talking 3/10s of FA noticeable change. Keep reading if you feel like having a bit of a snooze: An estimate of the first harmonic length for our L6s with a warm cam is somewhere around 3.3m, which is an aweful lot of runner. You can halve that figure to get the second harmonic length, and again for the third and so on. The gains from capturing that first pressure wave is estimated to be up to 10% gain, but diminish as you aim for the higher/shorter harmonics. Generally the 3rd and 4th are the only practical harmonics to be able to capture (about 0.8m & 0.4m, for about 4% and 1% estimated gain). This is all estimated on the peak power rev range, so you can pretty much throw it all out and just go for the longers runner/airbox tubing that you can fit. This site has some good reading and easy calcs http://v8soarer.com/intakerunners/index.shtml Hope that helps.

Looks good, like the kanto manifold too. How do you like the triples compared to the SU's (assuming you had round tops prior yeah?)

The 240z and early 260z had a fuel/ammeter rather than fuel/voltage. My limited memory of elec engineering subjects tells me that the circuit would have to differ for an ammeter to voltmeter. But I'm sure someone here could tell you for sure.

They don't have to be the whole length, nor on both ends, nor cut flush. They will be fine i you position them at the top of the carb. As long as there is a restriction somewhere in the bleed line, you will be reducing the flow of un-charged air entering the cylinder. There are pictures on this forum of some that a member has had fabricated - http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2091.0.html Disclaimer: I have non-emission dells, but seen the modded air bleeds in others

I just placed an order with Gabriele on Wednesday. Very helpful and pretty reasonable prices considering the scarcity of some of these parts these days.

It might seem okay looking at the numbers, but if you do go ahead with it I would suggest budgeting for an alternator with a larger output. It is just a matter of time before a not so new battery and alternator, some short trips in the zed and 40 year old wiring losses catch up to you. On a related note, what thermos are you going to fit?

Wtf? The terminology in this response is horrible: So the strut brace will be in compression, not tension. This will at least keep the geometry of the two strut towers consistent, requiring both towers to deflect. edit - FWIW I don't think there is much difference either way, as long as you are preventing the struts from deflecting independently of one another.

I was helping my brother in law clean up a mid 80s telstar/626, same thing. Rear mounts on drivers seat had punched clean through the bracket. He was adament that he hadn't done anything (too) stupid in it. I was amazed, and scared at the same time.

Probably easier to grab the tensile and shear capacity of the original bolt (M12 maybe?) and make sure your bracket exceeds that.

Pretty sure you can't use welded connections in seat belt / seat mounts either

Internally regulated, black removable thing in the bottom of the picture.

Repros are available from Rare Spares and Ford muscle parts etc..

Interesting. Still don't see it happening.

Deserve it?? He bought it, its his car, he can make a garden fountain out of it if he wants to. Foodie, I don't have a recommendation for a mobile sparky. But a problem that affects that much of the electrics can't be too difficult to track down, be it you with a multimeter or a mobile sparky. Give it a crack. They are a great car to drive.

I agree, the heater c0ck is the most likely spot for the leak. Drivers side of the trans tunnel up near the firewall. I replaced the two moulded heater hoses that attach to it a the same time. I can't really see that many places that you can have a leak, Its either those stated above, or the core itself. Hoses I got from Allzparts. Water shut valve, I found a nice looking one from a wreck I think?

'75 L26 will run on ULP no probs.

Glad you like your new drive! Front spoiler is unique, but a decision of the previous owner. It seems like it is reasonably modified as it is, which makes my ask is it 'worth' getting it back to original condition (worth in quotes as it is your call). Might as well not be constrained by what came off the boat originally... Your car your call. Good luck

Im going to have a crack and say a DAT Model 15?

rest in peace

Please don't tell us that you think RB actually stands for 'race breed'. I would put put an RB in a zed no problems. Ls have a special slightly spongy place in my heart tho