pauly_adams

still looking for a setup surely someone on here has one lying around in the shed. cheers pauly

well im waiting on a price for some z24 pistons i have decided to go L24 rods and z24 pistons mind you im going to need a new hks 89mm head gasket. by the way im not after huge amounts of power im looking at 200hp nothing huge and maybe a turbo down the track to pick up a little bit of slack thus me building it with low comp and slighty thicker pistons as i dont wont to use forged pistons good luck with your build bluerat. cheers pauly

i was actuly after the 135mm rods due to it making everything so neat and tidy. hear are the specs of the engine im going to build not theres no ld28 crank L28 block bored 0.120" (89mm bore) L20a conrods 135mm n42 head std head gasket L28 or L26 crank ka24 pistons flat top preferable engine bore 89mm engine stoke 79mm deck height 0.630mm deck cc 3.919 rod stoke 1.71 compression with -ka24e dished piston 10.53:1 -ka24e flat top pistons 11.2:1 -LZ24 pistons 8.79:1 engine cc 2.949 cc this engine should reve quite hard but it looks like im going down the path of using L24 conrods if i cant get the l20 or if they just wont work. it says on the ozdat engine disign utility the Lengine program and also atlantic z car engine builder state that the big and little end on the 135mm L20a rods are the same as the L24, 26 and 28 either way im not too fussed but it would have worked out perfectly. cheers pauly

hey all I'm in the process of planing to build a stoker motor and was wondering if any one could help me with some info. i been doing my research and i though i came up with the perfect stroker for me but the problem i have is that there are different sizes listed for the L20a rods from a skyline, what i can gather the sizes stated the are 135mm in length which would be perfect for my application but then it is said elswhere they are 128mm in length. so does any one out there actually have a set they could measure or does any have experience with them that could tell me the size. cheers Pauly

are you willing to seporate the box at all and if not how much do you want for the lot. cheers pauly

lol we meet again im not too fussed on the colour as the cases come off do you have a whole 280zx in parts?? how much where you after for them just pm me and ill put the money in your account. cheers pauly

hey all im in need of a 280zx seat belt buckle that is attached to the seat as some one has cut through all but 3 steel strands holding it together. i have no idea who cut them and why my thorts are assasins trying to kill off zx owners lol . cheers pauly

hi everyone i was wondering if someone on here had a full l28et setup, by this i mean both inlet and exhaust manifold, wiring loom and ecu i dont need the head, turbo or cover just mainly after the working parts of the turbo setup. if you can help just post or pm me. cheers pauly

i truely must agree with the "carfuly" in the haynes books, it always seem to end in a new blood test. cheers pauly

you vaulters i was first lol. cheers pauly

pm sent sorry about the carb question i didnt read the post very well. cheers pauly

well thanks for the post mine does the same thing and was going to get a wheel inlinment to try and fix it, mine also does the same thing looks like i need to put my new bearings in also. cheers Pauly

car is now 99% good, had one pop i think this was due to air flow sensor bypass. now all i need to do is some fine tuning over the weekend and it should be good for gold. if any one has these symtoms i would recomend reading the tutorial it makes quite alot of difference in smothness and power when you get it right. thank you all once again and if you have any questions feel free to ask. cheers pauly

ok old one is back on with some adjustment it seem about 95% good it still has a bit of a dead spot but with more tuning it should come good. as for what i done on the old one i just drenched it in contact cleaner but i also found this it seem like it will help both of us out. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html cheers pauly

nope its back to its old ways i installed the new sensor it runs much smoother but is poping down low. seems to be lack of fuel due to when it pops its out the intake not exaust and it runs fine untill it becomes warm. next step now is to put the old one back in and see if it comes good again if so then im truely puzzeled ill keep you posted on whats going on it sounds like its a injector so ill also check that moz. cheers pauly

got the new sensor today so it will be going on tonight its running 100% better than it was and im hoping with the new sensor it will run even beter ill keep you posted on the resaults. cheers pauly

ok car is now running and driving better than before mind you it is realy out of tune. worked out it was the fuel pump and the airflow meter, there was a part in the air flow meter that had become detached so i put it on and presto it lives. if anyone need some help with similar symptoms just ask. im still putting on my new air flow sensor when it arrives but i can finaly drive it again. thankyou for all your help and i hope oneday i can return the favor. cheers pauly

yes you are a serial ebayer you've got a couple of item i was bidding on. cheers pauly

yes the pullies do slip currently on my 260z its is set to 25 degrease advanced mind you its realy only about 8. as for the 280zx i done a test on the mass air flow meter and its saying its no good so new one is on its way, new fuel pump is fitted and much better car will idle now rough but will idle and fuel pressure is good again. so ill keep you posted on how it all goes. cheers pauly

hey i was wondering if any of you guys had a mass air flow sensor floating about for a 280zx i think mines dead, also i may need a ecu aswell so far i have replaced fuel pump cause it was was flowing quite poorly all hoses all filters, leads, plugs etc and done the ecu wiring test and it says my "maf" sensor was not working or was falty so if some one has one working and cheap let me know asap. cheers pauly

that pressure was tested from the hose coming directly from the fuel pump not the steel lines etc, also it was just trickling out compared to my 260z fuel pump and it only runs low pressure but thanks for the info on the dint ill be getting a new fuel pump hopefuly tomorow so we will see how it all goes. cheers pauly

yeh all lines and filters where blasted with compressed air and there where know blockages. i cleaned the screen filter in the fuel tank and cleaned all the lines going to fuel pump also. im now down to the fuel pump, there would only just be 500ml to 1L per min shoud the fuel be blasting out before the pressure regulator eg at the fuel pump or fuel filter or should it just be a slow burble. cheers pauly

also a yellow colour can be due to fuel premo fuel is a yellow colour and normal 91 ron fuel is blue/ purple and i also put some cleaner in today but fuel tank was quite clean free from dirt and rust.

ok got the fuel sender out and like mick said it was a real nightmare had to use a prybar a ball pien hammer and a old sealt belt i will wright up how i removed it later. now for the good part, i checked the screen filter and it was quite clean i did still clean it though also found out why the fuel gauge wasnt working the fuel float had had a hole so i done a patch job and works for now but will be needing a new one. now im down to the fuel pump or some other issue eg eletrical problem (ecu or something ). i will be getting a fuel pump hopefuly tomorrow or monday although i was wondering if any of the members would know what else could cause the fuel pump to have pressure on start up and then loose presure i have cleaned the fuel lines also and put some decent conectors on the fuel pump. any input will be appreciated so keep the posts coming. cheers pauly

compression seems fine on all cylenders its just the pump has no flow to it. the presure looks like its getting up there but as soon as the car cranks all over so today im going to clean out the filter in the tank. cheers pauly