sexual_sushi

I have been looking out for a similar colour to paint my daily driver. I saw a lexus the other day with a very pearly white. Not sure of the model but I'd say it was no older then a 2005 model car. Other cars with nice pearly whites are some of the 2000+ model subaru's and mazda 6's...

I like the price of zeds, it means I can own 3.5 z's and still look at more Haha wait until I buy one or two more and then you can up the value to $100k. I do agree that they are generally undervalued though.

In regards to what V8datto said, it can be the cheapest and easiest way but just make sure you have someone who really knows what they are doing. Because the roof is so thin, it starts to warp when it gets any heat in it, so welding up the hole isn't as easy as it sounds.

Are the suby cv's known to be weak? I thought this would be a decent upgrade from the stock uni's?

Can't help you with the glass but that is one beautiful build. Can't wait to see more RB30x you can get the filler re-plated and it will look like new or better so long as you or the company plating it puts the prep work in. While you are at it you can get other things like the door locking plates, hood latch etc plated. It isn't too expensive, especially if you get a barrel of things done. Or you can do what galderi does and plate it yourself.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160379280326&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:AU:1123 So I have just won this little fella, a R180 3.9 lsd from a Subaru STI. I hope to do something like this with the cv's: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143667 But if not I might settle for this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=148771&highlight=subaru+lsd Anyway funds for the car are very scarce atm so unfortunately I might not have any updates for a while.

Very nice work I've always loved the headlights/front grill on 70's muscle cars. To think I could have owned a genuine GTHO for $13000 only 5 years ago I really like that orange too

Thanks gav. Still fine tuning the car. I had an issue where the car was randomly breaking down which I though was a fuel issue. So finally got a new fuel pump on it bit that didn't help, so I dropped the fuel tank and replaced the fuel lines thinking there might have been a leak and/or maybe water in the tank, but it was clean. So I had pretty much eliminated fuel as the problem. Then I replaced the hose to the vacuum advance that had a very small hole in it, still no luck. Turned out to be a bad ballast resistor, replaced that and its running a lot better, so now I can tune it properly. But yes definitely better having the 2 carbs with matched parts. I used to have a pretty bad backfire when the car was cold (perfectly fine when at running temp) and I couldn't tune it out. Now it doesn't backfire at all. So yeah, now it's just a bit more fine tuning. I'm not sure about the needles from the flat tops. It seems to run rich at idle and then leans out as you up the revs. There also seems to be a bit of a flat spot around maybe 2500rpm? (Hard to tell, my tacho doesn't work). But I'm hoping I can iron these bugs out with a bit of tuning. I also have a 280zx dizzy to put into it but the bearing housing in the breaker plate is broken (apparently this is very common). So I'm waiting on the upgraded metal breaker plate from the US and I'll need to order a new vacuum advance controller from nissan. I'll make a thread about this soon

Wow that pink is hot!!

Looks like you've got a new spoiler to add to your thread Steve Very cool, thanks for sharing Nzeder

Sounds good, I'm there

hahahahahahaha mad skills steve. I didn't know I owned a VW beetle

Great post PZG302. Oz001, Bajcsi over on zcar.com had some custom pistons made from JE in replace of the the ka24 pistons... "I had mine built by JE. I can provide you or anyone the full spec/reorder sheet for them. They cost $800. Not cheap, but, they are custom for the car not KA24 pistons surfaced or with .6 deck height to deal with. The are forged and actually have proper valve reliefs, etc so you can run a 1mm head gasket with an e31 and get around 12:1" He was nice enough to give me the order sheet for them. I can upload it if you are interested. I might email him first and make sure he's alright with me posting the file. Note the scan is a bit hard to read, I'll try clean it up in photoshop a bit first.

Hey mate, how's your car going now?

I think you're in Brisbane right? Here's the link to Pro Gas http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,5478.0.html When I went in there with my British Carb he had a sheet to identify the different models of SU's. I don't know much about that specific model of carb so I can't say weather it is better or worse but in general: A positive for the carbs is that if they are 2", then they will be better if you are doing some performance mods to your engine as the original carbs were 1 3/4inch. The only real negative to British carb is the fact that it's not original so everything has been retrofitted, like linkages etc (although your linkage setup looks like it's using the original setup). And you can see in the pic that your insulator between the carb body and the manifold is thin. Not necessarily a bad thing and I think some of the later model carbs came with them, just won't stop as much heat transferring to the bodies. But like I said, this shouldn't be a huge problem. My car ran for at least 3 years without any insulators at all! Another positive about the British Carbs is that that Pro Gas company seems to stock more stuff for them than Japanese carbs. Z Therapy in the states can still supply you with the better quality rebuild kits (mine from progas didn't come with needles and like I said I didn't use the fuel lines). But he was having trouble supplying the British model, ball bearing style gross jet I was talking about earlier. Not sure if he has resolved this yet. Anyway here's a link to my carbs I have just finished rebuilding http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,5896.0.html

Hmm strange :S Ok thanks anyway.

Also, maybe I've been starring at my British carbs for too long, but your carbs look different? The domes are smaller. Maybe measure the diameter of the throat. Should be 1 and 3/4in, they still might be that size but I have a feeling they may be off of something else. Here's a pic of the Japanese carbs on my 240z and they look taller as well As a side note, a way to identify the different carbs is the number of screws holding the dome's on (there are different kits for the different years, don't quote me but it looks like a kit from the later model carbs can be used on the earlier models, but not the other way around. The later kit looks like it contains a few extra washers and gaskets etc) . I think 3 screw is from 70-71 and 4 screws are from 72 and 73 (check this, i always get them mixed up). Yours look to be 3 screw. But of course, this info is for the Datsun 240z carbs.

Hey mate, the standard of kits varies greatly. Best case scenario is to buy a kit from Z Therapy in the states. I think they can be quite expensive, but he has the best parts. Mainly things like fuel lines, most kits have really thick fuel hose which effects the jets movement (i ended up using the original lines on my carbs). He also has what he calls "gross jets" for the fuel bowls. These are a ball bearing system and he reckons they can "never" get stuck like the old jets. If you can't afford/can't wait for a kit from them, I would just make sure you get a kit that includes needles and seats. The rest isn't that important. Most kits won't include floats. The japanese su's on the z's have solid rubber floats. Just make sure they have kept shape and aren't bloated or swollen. I know Black Dragon Auto can't get floats atm, not sure about availability elsewhere. I have just ordered 2 su rebuild kits from Black Dragon Auto. They didn't have one of the kits in stock and it's taken them over a month to get it but it's finally on it's way. Steve on the forum here has dibs on them but if it isn't what his after I'll let you know. Also order the "Just SU's" video from Z Therapy. Very informative and will help you when rebuilding the carbs. Where abouts are you? There's a place in Melbourne that most people recommend for getting needles, not sure about kits but I'm sure they have them as well. If you are in Brisbane there is a place called Progas, they have stuff for the British SU's and I think some things for the Japanese Carbs.

I was thinking about this as well. I Photoshopped this pic to have dual exhausts But i think in reality it's just gonna be another project that delays the progress on my car even more. There are a couple of guys on hybrid with true dual exhausts. Have a look at their setups. To get past the fuel cell issue I was thinking about running two pipes down the left side of the car and then having one run along the rear valance, behind the fuel tank and then pop out the back (like certain porches i think?). But I haven't checked clearances to do this, so I don't know how feasible it is. I would be interested to see your progress

I know Photoshop inside out. Mainly work on retouching photos but I have done some 2d/3d compositing and texture work. I did a communication design degree so I know a little bit about most creative products like flash, after effects, etc

And they are done... Before After Well mostly done, the car is running but it still needs a bit of fine tuning. Have to wait for my new fuel pump before I get it running 100%, it's hard to tune when the fuel level is fluctuating so much. So in the process I have: - Rebuilt the carbs with new gaskets, floats, needles, jets, filters. The needles are from a set of flat top hitachi's. It's hard to comment on the difference as so much has changed. Hopefully I'll have more info once I get the new fuel pump. - Added the double choke (was only using a single before) - Added the heat spacer things from the carb to the manifold (I realised why they were missing, you can't fit long enough bolts without it fouling on parts of the carb body. I had to drill out the holes slightly so I could angle them in) - Added a cheap heat shield. When I was tuning I noticed the rear fuel bowl was too hot to touch, so i figured I should put some sort of heat shield back in. As you can see in the picture, I snapped one of the bolts on the balancing bar so I will have to drill that out at some point. Doesn't seem to be leaking atm which is good.

Waxy, if you pull out i've got 2nd dibs

I was looking at these guys a few years back... http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/pek-nissan.html Never ordered anything though.

Some awesome photos in that link, especially the 1st one!

Sounds great, make sure you post some pics when you do