sexual_sushi

And if know one cares then why does this thread exist?

Veloce, HS30-H is a great source of information and it looks like he is just trying to make it clear and concise. There is so much false information on the internet, in my early days I bought an S15 6 Speed box because I read a post saying that it bolts on just like the 5 speed boxes. If someone had posted below it saying it is BS I would have saved myself some money.

Haha yeah that's mine, I may have entered after I voted for yours I did just realise though that the top 10 are being judged for best modified. Although there is not a lot stock about my car, I feel that it probably doesn't have what it takes to win a 'best modified' competition. Yours on the other hand, definitely has the kahunas

Awesome photos, I have never thought to take one on boat ramp :/ Quite unique!

Just voted. sexy car. How have I not seen it before?

Jesus sh!t

Hey Chris, that isn't TOO far from me. I can pick it up for you if you want

Looks like that might be my old bus that I sold to another guy on here Different engine to when I had it though. Is it a 3 core vl or vn or 'whatever bloody crappy car' it comes off radiator? And does it have a 12 inch thermo fan on it? If so it did cool fine with daily driving on the old engine, even in traffic in summer. I think the thermo fan controller might have been fried when I sold it, I assume they fixed this or might have replaced with an original fan setup?

How about you get off your slack ass and try to return them to him instead of expecting him to chase you down? He did you a favour so you didn't get oil everywhere so make it the center of your universe and stop being a self entitled brat. As Dimitri stated the parts are valuable to him so who gives 2 sh!ts about how important or expensive they are to you? It seems he made it a public issue after you didn't respond to his msg's, you could have at least been apologetic about it even if you didn't think it was a big deal.

Sorry I get emails daily from ebay when any datsun, 240 or 260z part is listed. So I am intelligent enough to find it on ebay without doing anything... why do we need you spamming our forum then? At least make your post slightly useful.

I had a slightly similar problem which I thought was fuel or heat so I replaced hoses, added a heat shield, dropped the fuel tank and rebuilt the carbs but no luck. Ended up being the ballast resistor below the coil that was the problem, replaced it and it worked fine. But it was more of an intermittent problem, not a consistent one like yours seems to be

This guy on Hybrid is working on a rear diffuser too: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/79649-progress-on-my-insane-vq35hr-240z-project/page__st__260 Just thought I'd post cause his side profile looks quite nice. Pretty insane build too if you want to flick through the pages...

And locking mechanism would be different unless it was an early 260z

Big day of cleaning but the car is ready to go. Hopefully there is a good turnout, cya's tomorrow!

Me too, jsut spent the last 2 weekends getting the car back on the road. At least it gave me the motivation to do it

PS minimum shipping from MSA will be at best, $60. I would expect 100ish plus more if you are getting big or weighty items. If you can buy direct from the guy he is selling for $200. Looks like he is doing a group order atm and needs numbers so if you tell him you're in it will get the ball rolling.

Apparently: So just have to find a decent system. I think the guys problem was that he could not find a good enough system that was cheap enough to add as a 'kit'. If you are prepared to pay a little I'm sure there are plenty of options. Feel free to post any if you find them

Funny I just saw this on the Hybrid site on the weekend. Looks really tidy and simple, a few reviews on teh hybrid forum have confirmed that it is really simple to setup and works well. I want a decent proximity key fob thing if I were to do it though. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98889-daves-new-startstop-button-ignition-system/page__st__100 Note that the price from the first page has gone up, check the last few pages although he doesn't seem to want to make any more.

So I have the L connection hooked up to the D and everything seems to be working fine. I accidentally had the S hooked up originally and I can confirm that this does not work, it would discharge the battery over night. Thanks for the replies guys

You know you've been in Gladstone too long when... Or you're pregnant. Good luck with the sale, it's a tough looking car

My car wasn't going unfortunately... http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,11305.msg114279.html#msg114279

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Haha I'm now slightly less confident than when I started. However I will try hooking up the 'L' to the D+ and disregarding the sense wire and see how I go as this seems the easiest to do at the moment. Cheers

Not to exactly the same extent but at the All Jap day here in Brisbane over the weekend a guy had a picture on his mobile phone of an E Type Jag with 370z head and tail lights grafted onto it. They looked to fit the body lines perfectly although I'm not sure if the modern lights did the car any justice

Hi guys, I bought a Bosch alternator from Supercheap (BXD1242a) a few years ago but never fitted it. Now I've come to chuck it in my 73 240z and the wiring is a little different. There are the obvious earth points and the BAT or B+ terminals but the old alternator had a 'T' shaped terminal with 2 connectors, L(amp) & S(ense). The new alternator only has one terminal called D+. I think I can disregard the S connection (leave it unconnected) and then hook up the L connection to the new D+, can anyone confirm? Originally the car had an external alternator, I replaced this with an internally regulated unit using the plug with a diode in it (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4068). Notes taken from http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html 1. An "L" connection which goes to a "switched" 12V supply. By this I mean a 12V source that is active only when the ignition switch is in the ON position. I use the mnemonic "L" for "lamp", the alternator warning lamp (if used) is in series with this connection. This terminal also supplies the "excitation" current to the alternator field winding at engine turn on, allowing the alternator to begin producing voltage as the engine is ramping up to idle speed. Once the alternator rotor is turning fast enough, it generates it's own supply for the field winding and the current in the "L" connection stops flowing. The warning lamp (if used) goes out. 2. An "S" connection which goes as close to the positive terminal of the battery as physically possible. The "S" connection "senses" the battery voltage and this is the voltage that the regulator is tying to control. This connection has a high impedance, so it only draws only micro amps from the battery, so it can be left connected without fear of battery discharging. "S" ............... : ------- : :.... | ....: : | : : | : "L" :.....: