sco_aus

Hey guys. Just recently took the plunge into doing a cut and shut on my RB25DET intake manifold. For those that don't know, a cut and shut is when you cut the throttle body and flange off the plenum, weld it up, cut a hole in the front of the manifold and reweld the flange back on, thus giving you a forward facing throttle body as the original pointed over the top of the engine. In the end it took off around 1m of intercooler piping. the difference it made to the response of the turbo was awsome and a much smoother power delivery made it so worth while. So far the only problem i have occurred is that when running the car cold, it will miss fire quite bad, but Im pretty sure it is because of the cold start is just sucking filtered air from the atmosphere instead of the intake. Has anyone got any other ideas? I also think the computer is still slowly adapting to the change? I think i have gone on for long enough. Cheers Scott

I'm there, but I will need plenty of warning to make sure i'm not working.

Just for a comparison for you, I only have an exhaust, intake and front mount and I'm making 155rwkw no worries for the engine. (Cut and shut the intake plenum tomorrow though :twisted: )

They were built by Nissan rather than Datsun, a fair few parts are different too (believe me ).

Yeh you do have to get it engineered, Drunkemaster is definately the man to talk to, he got me my mounts, sump and pickup. Also, I kept my original fuel tank, just had a surge tank put in. Also here is the Nissan genuine parts for the engine side of the conversion: 11110-20P00 RB20DET Oil Pan (Rear Sump) 15050-20P03 RB20DET Oil Pickup 15059-V5001 RB20DET Oil Pickup O-Ring 11232-41L00 Z31 Right Hand Side Motor Mount 11233-41L00 Z31 Left Hand Side Motor Mount 11220-01L10 Motor Mount Insulators Just found em on HybridZ. One thing I found with the mounts is I had put a spacer in to lift the left side of the engine a bit, because the sump was bumping on the steering rack. Also be careful when it comes to front strut braces, mine was rubbing on the intake plenum and now they both have bits shaved off, I got my braces from T3 in the states.

I did the conversion into my 260 and my rotors are DBA and came to fit my car, they will do the 240 rotors to fit aswell because the rotors I got with the calipers were DBA for a 240 (obviously didnt fit my car). Just get the right dimensions and they have them or they can definately make them atleast. Also with the wheels, 15' and above, plus I have had trouble with some wheels that the offset is right but on the back of the face, it isnt spaced from the hub and hits the caliper.

I'm interested in the rear brake conversion there, but is that $500 for the 3 sets or per set?

Ok so the coilover kit at the previous link is being installed right now. It ended up costing me just over $800 just to get them here plus the rear Mac struts and the labour (also had to have rear konis adjusted for 260 struts), so I'm yet to find out exactly how much all up, but as soon as they are done I will update and let you know how they go. I also ended up getting 225lbs/in front and 250lbs/in rear springs in 10in long, which is about 4kgs/mm i think, not the stiffest ever, but ehy they are coilovers, springs are easy now. And I will find out about the swaybars tomorrow hopefully

Ok, now I'm up to LSDs. I have an R33 R200 housing with a Cusco RS 2 way, can anyone tell me or even hint as to whether the centre will fit my R200 or am I looking at a custom job to put the whole diff in? What other slippy's are other poeple using?

I just remember hearing it runs the same box or something similar, maybe a different bell housing and same box? Dunno

I hear the RB25DET box is easy to fit to the VG30.

Speaking of funny Fast and Furious spoofs, the New Zealand 'High Octane, Detonate' movie has a brilliant spoof on it. Quote: 'I give my wife a quater inch at a time.'

From the engineer who did my car, the strut brace is nowhere near strong enough to support an adult in an accident unless it is thick and welded to the car. I had an adaptor made up that pretty much uses a high tensile bolt to hold the strut brace and harness down in the centre of the three strut bolts. Hard to explain but made of billet steel and extremely strong. But it depends on if you want to get it engineered. i was to understand it was 45 degrees or less from the top of the seat and 10 degrees to the sides, at least in Canberra it is.

Sadly I couldnt do it because of the sh!t air pod filter rules and i couldnt fit a stock air box in, so I did it in Canberra once again and passed easy. The car isnt even in Vic anymore, it pretty much lives in Canberra cos its more relaxed laws (and cops) there.

I had it all put in in Canberra at Jake's Performance (if you are ever thinking of going there, DON'T!!!). However the only good work he did do was the gearbox mount, I might be able to measure it up and post the dimensions when the cars up on the hoist next month. With the engine mounts, I found the engine sits quite far back, more than the L28 did anyway and it gave me a bit better balance, so im pretty happy with it atm.

there is definite better looks in the cross drilled though :twisted:

I got my slotted rotors for $220, but that was cost price cos I got screwed around, but i did get a quote for $440 installed, but i put them in myself. Also on the cross drilled side, the cross drilled would be fine for street use, but its cheaper for slotted and i don't see the point in the extra money, but thats me.

Most people I talk to say, unless you buy a really good quality pair, cross drilled aren't worth it cos they are prone to cracking. I reckon slotted would be more than sufficient for you if you aren't doing track work. I have DBA slotted with the Hilux 4 pots and I dont get any brake fade and thats coming down the Hotham pass. Plus they are really well priced.

Yeh i have to have the struts sectioned and it will require engineering cos im altering the strut, plus it does require welding, but i will have 4 inches of adjustment and a pretty damn good spring rate. As for shockies, i already have Koni internal adjustables so it didnt cost me quite as much. (mind you, some bastard put 240Z rear struts on my zed before i bought it so i had to buy rear 260Z struts).

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_38&products_id=12 Cost a bit more, but one of the few sets that can offer the 55mm strut sleeves and also such a large range of springrates. Im using my current internably adjustable Koni shocks.

Ok then i shoulda read more into that, well i might be able to help you get it cheaper, cos im about to get some adjustable coilovers done by the same guy who did my swaybars, so i can find out which parts he used and any little things needed, but he's in Queenbeyan near Canberra.

I put Whitline adjustable swaybars in and haven't looked back. Cost me bit less than $600 from memory, but cos i got a 260 2 seater, it didnt actually come with a rear sway bar so it should be a fair bit cheaper for you. Car sits heaps flatter, plus being able to adjust for understeer and oversteer is awsome.

Hi Jimbo. I am hoping to do the road again in the next couple of months in the Zed this time, but getting it registered is proving to be a pain in the royal, but will be sure to post here a couple of weeks before i do if anyone wants to join me. Spanner hey, that would be handy for the Zed, Im Armoured corps, ASLAV crewman.

I got my sump, pickup, and engine mounts from a guy in Melbourne somewhere for $700 (really good quality parts). Unfortunately I had have the transmission custom done. They were from a 200ZR or ZX or something it was a japanese Z31 with a RB20, I think. I will see if I can find his details and post them later.

I drove over to Bairnsdale from Albury on the weekend, is there a better road in the country to drive or what? I'm not suggesting for the 11th, but hopefully one day. Sadly I had to drive my Pulsar SSS, but what a drive, and the views. Anyone keen for some time soonish? P.S sorry Zed wont be on the road by the 11th, but might come in the pulsar though.