C.A.R.

Thread bump. For those that require longer tie-rods when running increased camber, these tie-rod extenders are now available from SWM at a very reasonable price: They are a direct bolt in with no modifications. They have a HEAP of adjustment and they simply take the (RoadSafe brand) TE437L & TE437R ball joint.

Update your location to, cocko...

Well I'm not really into kicking a bloke while he's down... There's your first problem. Bin the brakes as well - you'll warp the rotors & cook the calipers. Change it to: Front Castor = 5deg positive - the more the better. (L&R) Front Camber = Start at 3.5 deg negitive & adjust from there, via tyre temps (L&R) Front Toe = 1 mm toe in (L&R) Rear Camber = 2.4 (L&R) probably too much, but what are the tyre temps reading? Rear Toe = 1 mm toe IN (L&R). Toe out makes IRS cars nervous in the rear. You require more rear toe - see above. Not enough Castor - see above. The China damper insert is junk in the AZC setup- you'll either get full soft or full hard with nothing in-between. Throw them in the bin & buy some MCA's. As a starting point I suggest you install 350lbs springs in the front & go from there. Leave the 250lbs springs in the rear for the moment, till you get the front end behaving like you want. No problem, but I'm betting you won't follow my advice...

Gearbox is underway (preliminary). R180 is still on the shelf waiting to be looked at.

PM your braking details - pad size cross-section, pistons dia & how many there are, effective disc size. I'll run the calcs early next week & give you the results for what size MC you need.

Sold!

260Z Close Ratios (2.906 1st gear) New bearings & new syncro rings on 2nd & 3rd. Late LH threaded mainshaft Reverse lockout (as in later box's) Short shifter conversion with double detent across the gate for a more positive shift action. Price: $1,900.00 Water just blasted cases available at extra cost. We would consider a 'change-over' gearbox - please inquire. Contact Les: BH: (03) 5623 3108 Located in Vic but we can ship Aus wide. Looks like this but the cases haven't been WJ blasted:

For Sale - R200 'Long Nose' Differentials. 1. R200 - 4.375:1 NO Centre (CW&P & housing only) - $500.00 ono 2. R200 - 4.625:1 NO Centre (CW&P & housing only) - SOLD! 3. R200 - 4.375:1 with LSD centre fitted - upgraded with extra clutch plates & fully rebuilt. Ready to bolt into a Zed. SOLD! Contact Les: (03) 5623 3108

Go back to a 7/8 M/C & re-adjust your pushrod, Kev...

I have reconditioned units available from time to time. Cost is around $2,500.00 Send me a PM if you are interested.

They are chinese junk. Get MCA's instead: http://mcasuspension.com/ - Aussie made too

Ahhh quite true.

Mine was around $450.00 posted from Summit.

This ^^^ 'Tuned for it' - what's that?

For sale: L6 Block Girdle / Brace. Suitable for all high performance L6 engines. Especially beneficial to stroker engines. Helps support main bearing caps from stress & 'walking' under load/RPM, which can result in worn and/or damages bearings. Requires machined spacers & longer bolts for the main caps. Price: $150.00 I prefer pickup, but I can freight at buyers expense. PM me if you are interested.

What's the price on it G-mam? Have you looked at ATI's?

I believe the hatch seal was leaking & water got into the hatch area, ran to the lowest point under the deadner & rusted out the floor. Yes, the battery is going to be held in place like that indefinitely, Gav. It makes it easier to remove any dust, dirt & debris that gets caught under there. Also makes it easier to paint I've converted quirt a few Zeds to removable trays - none have had any issues. I've done it to mine & that thing gets used at tack days. The battery tray & panels were all done last week - everything else has been spread out over the last 12 months!

1mm gap for MIG welding Alex, none for TIG welding. It depends on access to the back of the weld which process I use & weather or not it can be dollied straight after welding. Well since I've agreed on a sale price with Peter after it's back together, what happens to it will be up to him. I do know it'll be converted to manual transmission though I already have a new windscreen seal so the only one I'm replacing is the hatch glass rubber. Door seals etc are servicable. 2+2 rubber kits are available from Rare Spares http://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/ProductPage.aspx?product=DAT21 or Scotts Old Auto Rubber http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/Datsun%201969-78%20240Z-260Z.htm And probably the US as well...

SOLD!

The original 305 Light Metallic Blue, Chris.

Mid last year (2014) I had the boys at the local panel shop, bolt it to their chassis jig & pull the front out. After it was pulled straight: Then the rust in the bonnet hinge mounting area could be repaired: Yuk... this didn't look good. Hrmmm... that's buggered. Stuff it - I'll just cut it off! New section made & welded on: Next I noticed that the inner guard area under the battery tray has a LOT of surface rust, so I decied the best way to treat it was to unpick the tray: I then wire brushed (wire death brush on the angle grinder) the area, applied some kill rust (phosphoric acid). The old spot weld holes were welded up, but a few of the old ones were drilled out so I could install Nutserts / Rivnuts to secure the battery tray. Afterwhich the area was given a coat of etch primer: And finally the grill mounts were installed & the front end panels bolted back on along with a good 2nd hand bumper: Check out the hektic rake y0! Hopefully the next few photos will be of it in colour! Stay tuned

Riiiiiight... Over a year since an update on this but there has been a lot happening! Like any personal build, it's been coming second to paying customer cars. However I have found a few hours here & there over the last year to perform repairs on it. As it happened, I had a cancellation early last week so I decided to do a final 'push' on the ''blue bus" & get it to a point ready for paint. My spray painter has been around early last week, given me a price & told me I can drop it off late THIS week to start prep So this week has been doing all the little jobs on it & getting the front panels on & gapped. So on with the photos! Guard repairs were done last year: Spare wheel-well was rusted out & required repairing: And once the body deadner was lifted from the boot floor, more rust was found

Such a novel! Welcome J-P