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C.A.R.

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Everything posted by C.A.R.

  1. A few pics - mostly 1600's though:
  2. NPS Joel - I figured you had a reason BTW, THIS is the Burger: I had one of those, half that bowl of Wedges & a Milkshake. I'm not going to need dinner...
  3. After all that your fitting stock brakes & suspension!?
  4. It wasn't that bad Evan - you missed out!
  5. PowerBuilt, Kincrome, Repco, Bahco, Teng, SP. These are all excellent quality tools at reasonable prices. (FWIW all my tools are Powerbuilt).
  6. Yes it will. But you don't need to fit the TC head! The SOHC head will provide enough fasts, Loui
  7. I can supply an early chassis number 240Z for display, for the night?
  8. Are you serious Pauly?! - they can't register a car in another state unless they have residency in that state. That's not a loophole - that just stupid! How about you keep your bright idea's to yourself & keep quiet for a while.
  9. Thinners/Prepwash for cleanup
  10. FFS - just take it to another VicRoads!!!
  11. Speak to Trevor at brighton Nissan. Im sure he'll be more helpful...
  12. Wrong section Dofus. Don't post threads like this in General. Moved.
  13. Take it too another VicRoads centre for inspection.
  14. BUUUUUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMPPPP. It's this coming Saturday people! I hope it's not 'too' wet :S
  15. Good stuff Mark. So no issues with the fitment or the skins themselves?
  16. Dave mate - I think you took that the wrong way... Last time I checked those Sportmax rims of yours don't protrude past the out side of the std. bodywork? If you fit flares as it is currently, the wheels won't go anywhere near to filling the full width of the typical ZG flares. It would then look quite silly (poxy?) as you have these wide flares & not having the wheel fill them! So unless you your planning to upgrade to some wider & bigger negative offset rims, please don't fit the flares!!!
  17. Why? To have the flares look like Pox because the wheels won't fill them?!
  18. No offence mate, but tell your Missus to eat a Hambuger or seven, STAT!
  19. Indeed, I didn't know it was possible to drive that slow.......
  20. Adam, can you please ask James for head flow figures please (inlet & exhaust): what ### cfm @ 25" of h2O
  21. Thanks for help guys. The old boy managed to find a suitable kit from the local brake shop (go figure).
  22. If anyone has a GOOD CONDITION one lying around (ie that doesn't leak etc) they don't want, I'd love to hear from you!!! Current is stuffed & leaks fluid like a sieve Local bursons/repco can't get the correct rubbers either... Locky: zero four zero zero zero five four five seven two (after 5:30pm) PM or Email: ljfowler (at) dcsi dot net dot au Thanks!
  23. Firstly, I really shouldn't call it 'annealing them' - more softening them to make it more pliable when beaten over the door shell. I take the lips back to bare metal, then lightly rub some liquid soap onto the lips then heat the area (with a Map Gas torch) till the soap goes black. Then hammer away while they are still warm Secondly, if they only have a few holes in the old skins, I'd just repair them. I'd only replace the skins if they are well & truly stuffed. Thirdly, Pete please change your user-name as it's gotten quite silly now!
  24. They fit - but make sure to take your time fitting them. The welds at the tops of the doors need to be good 'n' strong too before you start knocking the lips over. I also found that annealing the lips on the door made them much easier to knock over
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