Zeddophile

Good to hear.... now hurry up and get the L28 into your car!

So its a Ford engine?

Ah, okay - I just checked out the software for your ecu, and now I understand the issue.... With my ecu you can change the MAP values that the fuel map is referenced against - so imagine you can set those MAP values along the bottom of your load site to whatever you wanted, say set the low end to 20 kpa, and the high end to 150kpa, and then space the values in between however you wish, including uneven increments. However thats not possible with your ecu Which software do you run with the F9s? If its the same as an F9, the version I downloaded allows you to change the amount of load sites up to a max of 32 for each rpm range, which gives you one roughly every 9kpa instead of every 18kpa (you said you had 16 load sites?).... Could be worth a look? I couldn't find any mention of an F9s on the haltech site, so I'm not sure which software it actually uses.

Heh - mine had rust on the very back of the lhr guard that looked almost exactly like that - same size, same shape and spread. Could be a decent project for someone with time though, the frame rails look pretty straight in the bits you can see.... Wouldn't pay too much for it though!

3 bar will work for 30psi of boost, which while large, is forseeable. Realistically 25 psi would be a better max with that MAP sensor, as it leaves some headroom so it doesn't go out of range. The thing to remember about map sensors is that the first bar is atmospheric pressure. So when you turn the ignition on, it will read 1 bar (depending on altitude), and any time you are on fully open throttle in a naturally aspirated car it reads 1 bar. I don't understand why it reduces the fine tuning ability though? What ecu is it running? Either way, congrats on the 200! So much fun to be in a light car with that amount of power coming out the back, isn't it.... I still get a big silly grin every time I nail it. Although you very quickly get used to it, and think "just a little more."

It shouldn't, ECU's aren't usually earthed through the case, they have earth wires running in the loom that go somewhere (location depends on car, some go to the engine, some go back to the battery, some have a connector on the body somewhere).

For how much?

If it starts on Aerostart, obviously its got spark, so why swap the dizzy? I overlooked this last time I read the other thread - what test light are you using to check the injector pulse? Usually a filament style (regular globe) test light won't actually light up before the injector pulse has ended (cranking pulsewidths are usually less than 10 milliseconds). If you are using an LED test light you might see it, or a digital multimeter with a bar graph may give you a little flicker when firing injectors. Got fuel in the rail? Fuel pump running? Is the wiring all hooked up properly, including earth leads? Do you know if the previous owner ever had it running in the car?

That's a points type dizzy, unfortunately the parts he is after are for an electronic ignition dizzy.

Ok, now I follow - you're trying to get them through the starter hole, and haven't moved along to trying the second option I gave (at the time of posting wasn't sure which way the zed ones were accessed). What you need to do is get the back of the motor up off the tyre you have it resting on (or you may be able to slide it so the back hangs further off the tyre?). If you have a look at it, the flywheel/flex plate/ringgear hangs down considerably past the sump, so you will be able to get a socket or spanner onto the bolts (whichever you want!) going from where the tyre currently is. You may even be able to get a spanner up between the flywheel and tyre as it sits now, bit hard to tell in the photo.

He couldn't have pulled the flex plate off if the torque converter is still on. However, the torque converter only slides into the transmission, but is bolted to the engine, so if you pull the box without undoing the torque converter bolts, the torque converter stays on the back of the engine. So essentially he has an auto on the ground with no torque converter in it, and an engine elsewhere with the torque converter still hanging off the flexplate. As far as I know he can't have, so either it was never there, or he's removed it. Which means there should be absolutely no issue getting to the bolts, once the engine is turned over to bring them to the access panel at the bottom. I presume he is looking through the side between the back of the block and the flywheel trying to get at the bolts, and hasn't turned the engine over to bring the bolts around.

Get a socket on the front pulley of the engine, turn it over till bolt heads visible under the bottom of the sump, undo them. Rinse, repeat.

DAMN IT! Was just about to post that one RBZ260. Note that it shows a 1UZFE with gearbox as weighing less than the L28 with gearbox. Theres another thread on HybridZ showing an L28 + box on scales weighing 539lbs, and somewhere about 400lbs seems to be the weight for motor alone....

If thats the motor you want to use, a mate is putting lexus v8 into his toyota sprinter, and he swears black and blue that the v8 will weigh only a tiny bit more than the iron blocked 4cyl 4AC motor thats in it currently. I think he's deluded, but food for thought, since an l28 is also iron block and has two more cylinders, while the lexus v8 is all alloy....

I think you still can. There is no mention with an L2S CAMS licence of needing to have a valid drivers licence, nor is there anywhere to put your drivers licence number on the application form, you just need to be a member of a car club. Can't speak for other level licences, but I don't think having a drivers licence for the road is at all relevant to a racing licence. Of course you couldn't do say Targa Tassie or anything with transport stages, but club sprints etc should be fine, providing you can get the car there somehow! We have an old Italian bloke of about 65 who works for us, and a few weeks ago we smelt something burning out the back. Went out to discover a heap of smoke, and two fat black lines in the yard out the back of the factory. He'd jumped into one of our cars thats scheduled for wrecking, and thought to himself "I've never done a burnout, I wonder if this car will do one..."

I also contemplated welding up the holes, but mine are in the throttle bodies themselves, which are a long way upstream, so I'd like to leave the option open to refit the motorbike injectors later on for high rpm tuning. Welsh plugs is still reversible (with some effort!), but much more secure than the grommets I currently have. Unfortunately I fall right between two sizes of plug, going to have to get the bigger size and grind down by 1mm. Bugger! Stupid motorbikes using funky size injectors.

He's the one second from the right, isn't he? With the blue bikini on

Looking good! I might have to steal your idea of using welsh plugs in the injector holes too, since one of my rubber grommets shot out from behind the cable tie on the way home in the (finally running) Alfa yesterday. LOUD backfires resulted!

You'd want to close the gap to measure smaller amounts of air surely? Unless I'm thinking upside down again, it seems to me the smaller the gap the air is passing through, the more effect it will have on the meter as the air is travelling faster. Conversely, a bigger gap i would think would slow the air down and make the meter less sensitive?

A little off topic, but suggest steering clear of whiteline control springs for any road car - a mate put them in his MR2, and you could have got a better ride leaving the springs out completely and just riding on the bumpstops. He ended up pulling them out and going back to standard, handled much better. Their ones for Zeds may be better, but I'd make sure you get them somewhere which will let you return them if they aren't! Don't know about the swaybars though - suck it and see?

As Gaijin has said, with a non boosted twin master setup pedal effort becomes very hard, dependant on master cylinders. Smaller master cylinders give a 'softer' feel, with a more spongy pedal, while a big master cylinder has been described by people who have driven the Group A Ignis Alfa GTV6 as 'like standing on concrete.' To give an idea of what driving a car with a pedal box feels like, disconnect the vacuum from your booster and go for a drive - you will find the pedal is firm from the very top, and a light application of the brake pedal (as typically used for coming up to traffic lights etc) does exactly what it feels like - applies the brakes very lightly. To make the car stop, you have to stand on the pedal as hard as you want the calipers to grab. A booster is multiplying your foots force by a certain amount - say for example 10. So if you stand on the pedal with 1kg of force (imagine pushing your foot on a scale to get it to read 1kg), the actual force being applied to the piston in your master cylinder is 10kg with a booster. Without the booster, to achieve the same amount of braking at the wheels, you need to stand on the pedal with 10kg of force. Gross simplification here, as the addition of a second master cylinder into the system changes everything again from a twin circuit single master. The end result of a pedal box is that you get much better fine control over your braking, at the expense of having to stand harder on the pedal. Painful in a road car, but bearable? I'll tell you in a month or so.....

Now THAT is a brake pedal! How hard you planning to stand on that thing? You've got me wondering if mine is up to scratch now, mine just has the balance bar tube welded straight to the pedal with no reinforcing.... still, our racecars have it done the same way and they don't seem to bend, I guess if it does I just have to pull it out and send it to New Zealand!

Don't forget to undo the torque converter bolts - should be about 4 of them. Don't remember where to access them from on an L series motor, but they will go through the ringgear on the back on the engine into the torque converter, so the bolt heads are on the engine side of the ring gear (flywheel on an auto). Possibly accessible through the starter motor hole in the bellhousing, after starter has been removed, or there may be a cover plate at the bottom of the bell housing under the sump. Will have to turn the motor over by hand to get them in an accessible position, one at a time. You can usually pull the auto off without undoing the torque converter, but then you still have to remove the torque converter from the engine at some stage, and they tend to piss oil out everywhere when the torque converter is removed from the auto (even if box has been drained), so I prefer to leave it in the auto and take both away at the same time. Also, autos are freakin heavy - considerably heavier than a manual gearbox, so keep it in mind, and get someone to help you if possible.

Koni Reds aren't straight gas shocks, they are hydraulic/gas shocks (have both oil and gas in them), so they extend slower than gas shocks due to the oil, but still extend on their own due to the gas in them. From memory, Yellows are oil only, and basically don't extend by themselves at any sort of speed unless you pull them open. This is what the adjustment has the most effect on - the speed at which the shock will extend. To get a better feel for how much damping there is grab both ends of the shock and actually pull it open by hand. Unfortunately, yes you have to pull them out to adjust. Worst thing about having struts - the fact that you have to pull the spring off every bloody time you want to get at a shock. Thats why I'd suggest starting a bit back from maximum - better to end up on the soft side in damping rather than the hard side, especially if you don't have time to pull them back out and readjust. Glad my Alfetta doesn't have struts, can do shock adjustment on car by undoing the bottom of the shock! As for what I don't know about zeds? Lots of things, and getting to be more every day since I had to dispose of mine. Koni Red/Yellows, however, I have adjusted a lot of On the front brake discs, for 2 reasons: 1. You go faster when you can't stop. 2. It'll look like you drive fast and brake hard when they catch on fire!

You beat me to it - was going to say they took a nice looking car (350z) and made it look like a hyundai. Although the styling cues you see on the 370 seem to be the fashion at the moment Don't think that look will ever grow on me...