Zeddophile

The other trick used is to use the signal from the ecu as the earth on the switching circuit (energising winding) in a relay, with 12v fed into the other pin. Usually the tacho wire would be spliced into the wire back to the ECU (negative side), but in this case you'd try splicing it into the 12v feed, I guess? Better check with the ECU manufacturer that the tacho output pin can handle sinking the current required to turn a relay on though - its not a lot, but if the ecu doesn't have powerful enough transistors on that pin, it could possibly cause damage to the ecu (or it just won't work!). This is how I have the tacho going in my Alfa, with the relay trick. Only thing is, its a good idea in a road car to open up the relay and rip the actual contacts out, otherwise the highspeed whir from the contacts opening and closing will drive you bats**t!

Don't start me on neighbours, the ones at my old place are the reason I have no Zed anymore.

how many of these at 80% do you have? wouldn't mind picking up a good set to keep on hand to replace mine with when they get a bit lower... Also I know someone who may be interested in a set of these, depending on which 'model' they are?

Is this acceptable?

Lancia did this on their rallying Deltas. Some other makers have done it before as well.

1) Some did, some didn't. I think the early cars had no repeaters, not sure when it changed. 2) Yes, as far as I recall all models should have the blinker in with the parker. The indicators in the guards are additional to these. 3) I have no idea!

The problem with that test is that the jar will run out very quickly, and you do NOT want to run an EFI pump with no fuel in it. The remaining vapour can be set off by the arcing of the brushes inside the pump, and it can go off like a shrapnel grenade. Remember with an EFI system, a majority of the fuel being pumped is not actually injected into the engine, but returns to the fuel tank. I'd suggest if you are doing this, put the return from the fuel rail back into the container as well, and use a litre or more container. If you can't feed the return back into the container, use a jerrycan with 5 or so litres in it. A bosch 070 (generic replacement pump which will have the same specs as yours, used for alfas/commodores/anything with an L-jetronic that uses that style of pump) will flow 2.25 litres per minute at 3 bar. If you are using a half litre jar, you get less than 15 seconds testing - and that includes fuel pumped while cranking. And 11 volts should be fine for running the pump. Its capable of running probably twice the pressure of an L28 fuel reg, so its not stressed at all to put out the 2.5 bar required. If you were running a really high fuel system pressure, yes you'd probably need the voltage to be higher to keep consistent pressure, but in this case I'd be surprised if its the problem.

Correct. You mentioned the 4AGZE then directly after a Toyota supercharger, I assumed you meant the 4 cyl one. Not exactly up to speed on turbo/supercharger model numbers, I just don't care enough about them....

Few things to check for low fuel pressure: Is the fuel pressure regulator stuck open? Take the return hose off and run the fuel pump, if you have low pressure and the fuel is pouring out of the reg, its stuck open (i'm assuming you have a fuel pressure gauge?) If ok, can you borrow a fuel pump off a mate with a VL commodore? Should fit straight in, and see if it runs alright with that. The last one, which is pretty likely due to the fact that it ran pretty well to start with and progressively got worse is indeed the strainer - picks up the crap from the bottom of the tank, and slowly clogs itself up. Usually when this happens, over a period of hours the crud all drops off the strainer, and then when you restart it, car will run fine until the suction of the pump drags it all back up into the strainer again. Probably quickest and easiest way to try this theory is when its running crap, turn off and remove the fuel cap. Then remove the feed hose from the fuel pump (at pump) and blast compressed air through it back into the tank to clear the strainer. Reconnect the hose, and see if it runs ok. If it does, enjoy getting that fuel tank out for a look see. I haven't mentioned fuel filter as Mick said he's replaced that, however this could provide useful info. If you can pull the filter off without letting ALL the fuel out of it (especially at the inlet end, make sure it doesn't come out there at all, not so much an issue if you lose it from the other end, but some fuel needs to stay in it), try this test: Get a clean glass jar (or similar), and tip the contents of the filter into it from the INLET end. Blow on the outlet end as well, to force the fuel out quickly. What this does is cause the fuel to drag the contents of the filter back out into the jar, and if you end up with a jar full of fuel with brown crap floating around in it, you know you've got crap in the tank (the finer pieces of which is making its way through the strainer and fuel pump).

Unfortunately they'd be a bit on the small side for an L28 I think. The electric clutch is good though, fun driving an AW11 trying not to make the little green light come on in the dash.... That gets boring pretty quick though!

This one could possibly be a dodgy wiper switch (try wiggling it round, and different speed settings to see it starts again), or a bad connection/fuse in the wiring.... Easy things to check out before forking out for another wiper motor.

If you have a roll cage though, the roof is probably nowhere near is critical as it would otherwise be. If you can work out how to bond the CF roof on properly, it would be probably stronger than the steel - the Alfa Romeo SZ actually used a carbon fibre (or similar composite) roof from the factory, it acchieved (I believe) the highest lateral G-force of any road car at the time. Also, many late model cars have the windscreens bonded in with urethane - in these cars, the windscreen is an integral part of the cars structural rigidity! Photo shows you just why it was dubbed 'Il Mostro' (the monster). Ugly, but very brutal.

very true.... Might as well cut the floor away under the pedals too, so you can push the accelerator down further. That makes you go faster, right? *edit* in the interest of keeping some sensible discussion going among all the crap thats flying around , I'm surprised no-one has mentioned the benefit of reducing rotating masses - flywheel, balancer, tailshaft, wheels, brake rotors..... You get a small weight reduction, but also the benefit of a bit less driveline power and torque losses. Small gains, but it all adds up. Pity you can't machine as much off a Zed flywheel as an Alfa, but on the flipside zeds don't have a bloody great big tailshaft spinning at engine speed with another flywheel at the other end! And yes, the ring gear was working its way off the standard flywheel :-\

Platers usually have a minimum charge, whether you fill the basket up or only have 3 items. Probably could have had a whole milk crate worth of stuff done for the same cost. Sometimes with things like pulleys though they tend to want to hang them individually rather than tumbling them through the machine.... especially when they happen to be cam gears :'( 4 exposed black cam gears do look hot though!

if you make a hole in the seat to go with the floor hole, it serves two purposes: When you crap yourself coming into that corner way too hot, it doesn't stink out the car, and you get lighter (therefore faster, causing you to release more excess 'weight' at the next corner )

I think acdc's question was more about the 'sport' part. You are somewhat correct in what you say about hacking up a rare shell BUT think about this one - Group A racecars are now worth quite a bit of money.... Yet back in the days just following the end of Group A, no-one ever thought they'd be worth anything. I know of two Alfa GTV6s (the two yellow GTV6s of Colin Bond and Alan Jones) which were both turned into sports sedans following the end of their Group A careers. One the body remained basically intact, and it just had a bored out 3.4 litre alfa V6 dropped into it - and as such can be returned to Group A trim by reinstalling a 2.5 litre motor and the correct brakes. The other (which was the one used for rallying as well as tarmac) has had extra rollcage pieces welded into the engine bay, had all the gaurds cut off the front and replaced with fibreglass ones, and various other things. Just recently that car has been restored to 'as ran' spec (apart from the extra bracing in the engine bay), but the fact remains that it was seriously hacked up, and I'm led to believe a number of the other Group A cars had a similar fate. However, the main point to be noted out of this discussion is the seller is full of it. Okay, maybe the 'motorsport shell' thing is down to a lack of knowledge, but his reply to me indicates intention to mislead. Replacement of the radiator support, holes cut in the inner gaurds, that to me is modification of the bodyshell, and when someone asks has it been modified in ANY WAY that sort of thing should be mentioned. So if anyone is seriously thinking about buying this car, go and have a really good look for yourself to find out anything you want to know.

Just had a flick through my old photos to confirm this one, cause I wasn't 100%, and no, not true. My compliance plate was stamped 260z RS SPORT AUTO.

I don't think it will sell.... He lied to me about that car too, I very specifically asked if the car had been hacked up: "Has the shell been modified in any way (eg. rollcage points, cut off engine mounts etc)?" and this was his reply "body is unmodified except for the fuel tank in the rear. It has a cams approved cage and is logbooked as a sports sedan."

Sounds like its had some weight reduction, and the bar across the top of the radiator support would be to stiffen it up. So ideally if you were to fix it up it'd need a donor front section from a buggered 2+2 or something (back to the firewall, or just around the radiator support?), I guess. Saves me going for a drive at least, unless it comes up a lot cheaper.

Hacked up how, to fit the fibreglass guards or the RB engine, or some other reason? Is the rust in the chassis rails?

Interesting thing about that car is its CAMS logbooked (as a sports sedan, I think it was), and has an CAMS approved cage in it (or so he says). Don't really want a racecar though.... just a longterm project...

Yours isn't front wheel drive like that one though....

Why risky, Stevo? He's talking about trimming the excess thread off the end of the bolt, the amount of thread contact area remains the same. If it comes loose, doesn't matter if there are 10 threads or 2 threads it has to unscrew over - its still loose! And the small headed bolts I imagine go places like gauge cluster brackets etc - things that aren't subject to big loadings.

Very true. However I'm only 15 minutes away from you (or 5 if I'm at work), and from what the photos show inspection would likely be a formality. You've been very upfront about the car and the faults it has. To be honest, if I were you I wouldn't drop the price by much - I would say if the car presents as well as it appears, less than 7k would be doing a grave disservice to your friend, and there shouldn't be any problems in getting that price for it in the current zed market. Unfortunately my current situation doesn't allow me to even consider anything above my earlier mentioned price, I have enough projects and expenditures on the go as it is, else I would have come and checked the car out in great detail already. But as I'm not in the position to offer in the vicinity of the current price range, I don't want to waste your time. If it gets down to a point where I can justify the money to myself (and certain others!), then I will be in contact. Good luck with the sale.

Fairlady Z432 (Apparently) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1970-Datsun-240Z-4-3-2-Red-M-Coupe_W0QQitemZ280363481901QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Cars?hash=item4146f73b2d&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A1|66%3A4|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A200