Zeddophile

Come on you two, make up your minds! Which is it, Rover or Leyland?

Steel wool will definitely leave scratches everywhere on your average alloy wheel, especially any kind of polished finish.

Out of curiousity, what were you using to polish them up? My simmons on my alfa are pretty good, but have a few spots of corrosion type stuff on them, and it looks like you got rid of all that...

As zedman says - you disturb sludge or rotting gasket/rust etc that was previously holding together your gasket/metal pipe/insert important part here, and voila you suddenly have a leak that wasn't there five minutes ago. As the old saying goes "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." The number of times you wish you'd adhered to that rule rapidly mount up when you're doing your own work on cars.

I'd mostly agree, although you have to remember that carbies neck down quite considerably in the middle to a smaller diameter than the rest, to increase the airflow (IE. 40mm dellortos generally have a 36mm ID?). As such, there is probably quite a lot of meat there for the taking, but the flipside is that every bit you take out surely has to vastly decrease the effectiveness of the carby due to loss of air velocity to draw in fuel.... Triples would be a much better option for a higher revving cam - 40mm is a little smaller than the usual, yes? But this could be actually quite good for a street car - the slightly smaller butterflies would give a bit better response, and the point at which the motor outbreathes the carbies is high enough not to matter on the street. That said, I think if you had a stump pulling cam in your L28, the 240 carbs with a jetting change could be pretty good in that situation.

Just another take on the ITBs - a snap of mine on my Alfa, taking the cheap option (read: I've probably spent at most half the $ of what Zedman240 has on his, but a lot of hours). Using Suzuki GSX-r 750 throttle bodies and a Megasquirt ecu. Can't beat that sound.

If that model 4AGE runs with a map sensor, make sure the vacuum line is connected up and not split.... Can't remember from my mates car if they have an air flow meter as well (although his engines from an AE93 anyway), if they do, check that its plugged in. Sounds like something critical to measuring air flow or engine load isn't connected...

You can actually make up a tool to install rivnuts or nutserts by using a piece of flat metal, 2 nuts, and a bolt (all of which must obviously be the same thread as your rivnut. I'll have to look at one to remember how exactly to work it (can't quite visualize where the nut fits in off the top of my head), and then if anyone is interested I'll explain.

have a poke around here..... http://forums.hybridz.org/

Its an pretty easy job to do yourself.... I actually did a full step by step guide at one stage, just after I did mine, but unfortunately that was on the old site, and it didn't migrate. A pity, because its an often asked question, and my memory is nowhere near fresh enough to rewrite it.

Grabbed from HybridZ: Speedometer Cogs Yellow 16 Tooth 3.364.1 Black 17 Tooth 3.545.1 Blue 18 Tooth 3.70:1 White 19 Tooth 3.90:1 Red 20 Tooth 4.11:1 Purple 21 Tooth 4.38:1 Used to be on another site as well, which is now dead, so now it can be here as well. And if anyone is looking for a blue one, I'm pretty sure that's the one I have floating around in the garage (came out of a 280zx box) Do the units look the same apart from the gear colour, or are the housings different? If you turn the gear in the auto sender, does the little square drive on the output side turn? Is the square drive a different size between the two units? (I have seen that on a different model car, a change in speedo cable ends.) If your speedo worked before, then the sender shouldn't be a problem, but I think perhaps the auto sender unit housing may be slightly different and put the gear in a different spot? Can't quite remember, it was a while ago... You may need to CAREFULLY knock the little pin out of the gear, so that you can remove the gear from the unit, and put the auto gear onto the manual sender.

I'd be looking at modifying the little brackets which are bolted to the calipers to hold the cable (at least, it looks like they just bolt on!). Either bend them in a bit, or slot the hole where the bolt goes through. Either that or make up a small link to go between the end of the cable and the lever on the caliper, effectively extending your cable a touch. :-\

Pretty sure auto 2 seater diffs were 3.54. However, irrelevant. When you swapped in the manual gearbox, you forgot to change the speedo sender gear over between the two. They have different numbers of teeth depending on the diff ratio, and they are matched to the DIFF, not to the transmission (as you'd expect, since its on the output shaft). Remove the speedo sender unit from your old auto, put it into your manual gearbox, and your speedo will read as it did before.

Come on, we're talking Nissans here - get metric! Cold: Inlet: 8 thou Exhaust: 10 thou Hot: Inlet: 10 thou Exhaust: 12 thou Slightly rounded figures from my very favourite program: http://joshmadison.com/software/convert/

Woohoo, I wasn't completely wrong!

You're not going to want to sell it once you've got all that done - set of wheels and it will look insane, plus the triples roaring away up the front. You'll kick yourself in the ass every day if you do sell.

Did the 280zx come out with CVs? For some reason I thought they were still uni jointed

Came across this ad today, which has me a little confused - didn't the japanese 240s have a twincam 2 litre six, and L series motors only for export?

No, definitely wouldn't, but I still try to avoid advertising it more than necessary! You don't know me, nor do I know you, but I have heard your name mentioned in conjunction with the words "excellent", "zed", "specialist", and "really knows his stuff" many many times. I actually dropped in one lunchtime when I still had my 260, but you must have ducked out briefly, and there was just a very nice red zed out the front. Never got round to coming back for another try, I think I ended up finding whatever it was I was after somewhere else.

I wouldn't have done drilled and slotted discs personally, I've looked into it all before. The consensus among the racers I've spoken to is that slots don't do anything except chew the pads up quicker UNLESS you are running a pad which emits a lot of gas which needs to be removed. The cooling effect of the slot is negligible compared to the wear on pads it causes. Crossdrilling as you said causes cracking, because the hole is an edge for the heat to gather at to try and escape. This eventually causes stress fractures. Its not going to cause your disc to fall of, but if it were to crack, and then go unwatched it could conceivably get worse and worse until it throws a chunk. Unlikely, but a possibility. More likely what will happen is the cracks will be a cause or a part of the disc warping, and you will get brake pulsations.

Dazzed, don't suppose you have any zeds for sale lying around in your shop do you, since you work about 20 seconds drive up the road from my work.... (I'm pretty sure)

So, who's going to be first to buy the 5.14 diff gears? I see 3.1 stroker kits with all the goodies too...... and triple carby setups...... that site is evil, and I don't even have a zed anymore.

Ditto.... and possibly somewhere else, can't remember where though.

Here we go, I get to tell people again about my favourite little trick - works for most of these types of lines - auto coolers, brake lines, etc. As long as you have enough flats left on the nut to load it up a bit, you should be right, BUT this is a two person trick. First, you need to get your spanner onto the nut and load it up as far as you can before it will slip off. Next, the other person needs to get a smallish pin punch and a hammer. Position the pin punch at right angles to the spanner, and put it on the SIDE of the nut - so on the face which is perpendicular to the part the spanner grabs. Usually there isn't a massive surface here, but it doesn't matter. Now, while the first person holds the pressure on the spanner, the second person needs to give the punch a sharp whack with the hammer. The person with the spanner should watch their knuckles with this one though, as it will release much easier than you expect, and you may punch things! I have seen someone with a 2 foot pole on their spanner trying to undo an auto cooler line, and not able to budge it. I then did this trick with them, and when I LIGHTLY tapped the punch as a sort of lining up thing, he just about punched himself in the face. I hadn't even given it a proper whack yet. The impact through the nut works wonders. If giving that a few goes and it still doesn't work, you're either doing it wrong, or the line is welded in.

Use a bit of broom handle with electrical tape wrapped around it to make it the right size - have used that a couple of times, works a treat. Or your lathing idea is even better, although might take slightly longer