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Where are these available from? My mate is a Toyota nut..

Confirmed? http://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/revhead-review-mad-max-fury-road-20150514-gh1scb.html

Title says it all really...

I have 103731, but my engine number is higher at 190002.

Could be. I called up about another car on there and it was gone as well.

I don't know the seller, but for serious interstaters I would be happy to check out the Essendon car. It's not that far from me. Lazy advertising mystifies me as well...

http://www.justauto.com.au/justcars/cars-for-sale/1971-DATSUN-240Z-SPORTS-JCM3556747?backurl=http://www.justauto.com.au/justcars/search?parent_page=%252Fjustcars%252F&keywords=Keywords&current_page=201&backtext=Results

Iceberg, are you a member of the NDSOA? Doubtless, cars change hands in the club which never make in onto Carsales, Gumtree etc.

Nope. I already have two. I'm hoping to breed them.

I should probably add at this point that I have a 3.9 Subaru LSD and I'm currently putting together the pieces for a 3-3.1L stroker, so my decisions are largely already made. As a result, the question wasn't asked for me per se. I was just hoping to illicit more detail (and perhaps more spirited debate) than the standard "power is found in the head" comments which although valid, don't consider the cost involved, which I would suggest is a key limiting factor in most of our decision making. Additionally, it doesn't consider the validity and impact of head modification which knocks on to fuel delivery, spark, exhaust etc. Further, it also doesn't consider the detail. If power is found in the head, is it found in the valves or reprofiling the intake/exhaust - per $ spent? Case in point? I was talking to Les Collins the other day who suggested that a streetable L31 with triple 45's and a P90 producing about 280hp actually doesn't need much head work because the 45's aren't large enough for head anyway. In this regard, power would actually be found in a combination of fuel delivery and the head.

Hmmm.. that went well. One person answered the question and Lurch ate popcorn..

I agree, but it's also why I said n/a up top.

..but this is my point. No-one ever costs this stuff. If you play the "what cool garage could I assemble for $250,000?" question, it's different to "what's some cool cars?". The ready-made answer for L6 mods is to spend all the money on the head first, but without a decent set of pipes (because you've run out of cash), or mods to the intake side, are you going to achieve anything? For $1,000, would you be better off reprofiling the cam (at say $200), plus a cheap set of pipes ($300) and some light cleaning up of the head ($500)? To spend money in these areas, you've ignored ignition mods and, as Alan has added, you're still running standard ratios through the driveline. As another example, if you're building an engine, are you better off buying aftermarket rods, rather than spending nearly the same budget on cleaning up the old ones? Lurch raises a valid point about spending the money you have in the right places as nearly all of us are purse-strapped in our decision making. I'm just interested in teasing out the question to see how people would spend their money in the real world, given financial restriction and the added problem that you can seldom modify one thing alone which will result in tangible improvement to the whole. If you are building a stock engine for a client and he/she is prepared to throw another $1,000, $2,500 or $5,000 at it, where would you spend the money for that person?

What I'm asking in a roundabout way, is which are the best "bang for buck" mods on a limited budget, based on the limits as above? If you only had $1,000, would you spend it focusing on extractors, ignition, bigger carbs or maybe some port work? (and so on up the cost curve)

So I've been thinking about Lurch's comment from the tensioner thread about "best spent money" and whilst there are multiple topics which start "I'm going to build an engine, what should I do?", I seldom see a 'cost curve' approach taken to the question. Being as price is a key determinate for nearly everyone, I'm interested to see where the experienced campaigners would spend money, if money really was limited. So if we consider someone will be rebuilding (and only had the money for a stock rebuild), a stock n/a L28 with 240z carbs which goes pretty well and will need to pay specialists to do specialist tasks (i.e. porting and machining), where would YOU spend the money if you had: (a) No extra dough. Where are the cost-free little bits you can do to make a good engine, better. (b) An extra $1,000 © An extra $2,500 (d) An extra $5,000 I guess I'm focusing on n/a builds here and maintaining an L6 under the bonnet.

They are OEM!

I'm interested in the block..

I'd love to know how to identify it. I'm looking for an 89mm and I have a complete L28 F54 in my garage. Problem is, I don't want to pull it apart only to find it won't go to 89.. If there's an external trick, then I can either keep it or transfer the running engine to another z owner.

On reassembly do you just tap them back in?

Are you sure it's the diff that's the problem and not the diff mount or the strap? If it clunks when changing gear it could well be that either of the mount or strap are stuffed.

A big thanks guys. I slackened off the diff insulator and that gave me JUST enough wiggle room to get it all lined up properly. From there, it was all like big boys Meccano. She should be rolling again shortly!

Hi guys I'm currently trying to get my diff back into the 240 after performing a few mods and rebushing the whole back end. To date, I've swapped the diff for an R180 WRX unit (with Betamotorsport outputs) and I'm also using the Technoversions diff "snubber" (the conical version). The problem is, I can't get the front diff mount to line up properly with the underbody threaded holes. It's out by 5mm-10mm. I've tried taking the technoversions diff mount out in case the downward pressure is pushing it out of alignment and it hasn't helped. Is the diff held in under tension between the front and rear mounts and hence, just requires me to wrestle it into place, or does it appear something is amiss? Before you ask, I have checked the bottom diff mount and it's the correct way around. Any thoughts?

Inhouse critic might be on to something.. Many years ago I was given some good advice when it comes to these cars. Basically, it costs as much to restore a 240z as it does a 260z or a ZX. Aside from the ability to source some second hand bits cheaper for a ZX, it'll cost roughly the same amount to paint, rebuild an engine, replace the diff, sort the suspension etc etc. At the end of the day, a 240 is typically worth more than a 260 (particularly a 2+2) and substantially more than a ZX. I don't mean to offend you or anyone else, this is just the way the pricing is (at the moment). If you are absolutely set on the bodyshape of a ZX, it sounds like you should get rid of it and buy a better car. From your description, yours sounds pretty far gone. You could get a far superior car for not much more, which will save you thousands in the long run. There was a nice looking 2+2 ZX getting around for a while on these forums which was a turnkey proposition. If you don't really care about the bodyshape, then reconsider what you're restoring. A $25k paintjob on a ZX is a lot of money.

The session last year got cancelled, but he's coming back. My mate is looking after him, so I'm going to see if I can get an L head for him to look at and provide comments..

Verified members can be by one (or more) members vouching for the individual, or as a result of a minimum number of posts. Neither are foolproof, but at least it's a start.