Toecutter

Evan, not sure you might want to ask Lambs but I've been thinking about going down the R31 rear end set up it's just that I've been getting differing advice. Lambs. I've checked out a few R31's and it looked like a bit of a pain to get the brackets off. Once the calipers and discs are pulled off how hard or rather what else is involved to get the brackets off? Thanks Sulio

Rear Disk Conversion Kit Group Buy. I found a full rear disc brake conversion from the US on e-bay. This comes with the lot including calipers, new mounting bracket, rotors, e-brake bracket and lines. The supplier can currently supply 3 sets. I will be buying a set for myself as I believe will Gav so there is one more left over for anybody interested. The cost will be US$389.00+shipping, (about AUS$500+shipping). We will ship together to cut down on cost. I have been doing the research on the upgrade and this is a pretty good price. Anyhow a link to the add so speak up if you also want a set. He can supply more than 3 however his "shelf stock" is at three sets and for anymore there would be an unspecified lead time. Cheers Sulio http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8054416372&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AWNA%3AMT%3A12 _________________

I noticed the sunroof RBZ260 installed on his 2+2. I'm not a big fan of the hole in the roof thing for a Z but if happen to have a car with an existing sunroof how cool would it be to install one like RBZ260's. I noticed its in his 2+2 I wonder if the same one would fit a 2 seater!

I really like this darker silver.

I found these on another site. Interesting to see all the different type of JDM badges and where they are actually meant to be on the car!

here you go! :wink:

Be patient, body work will set you back a bit unless you can do all the welding yourself.

Gav, the wheels on that last brown coloured car look great! Not a big fan of the brown though!

excellent I'll be in touch later today on the phone!

Anybody got a spare choke cable to sell?

I'll be selling a 240z soon. Just in the last stages of getting the carbs cleaned up to get it driving. Just sourced the original hubcaps too. Totally original with maching numbers, fresh red 2 pak paint, reskinned dash and refreshed interior ie reuposltered seats etc. However it is auto. I want to finish this car off to look like it did when it came out of factory as far as all the parts on the car. All thats left is the original stereo, if anybody knows where I can get one do tell! Sulio 0413 188 024

I had plenty of room on both front and rear strutts. would'nt be surprised if the early 260 had smaller strutts. But then again I ordered standard lowered springs from King springs so the coil diameter is probably the same as yours. If you mount the rims with 10mm space tyre to strutt, how much room will that give you on the guard/tyre dist?

enzo who did you get to put the kit on?

Hi Ben, I had plenty of room with the 17x7 and the 15x7. From memory the adapters were 45mm thick both front and back. I suggest you go for a tad less, like 40mm. The best way to do it without any trial and error is to mount your wheels and see how they sit. Get some long bolts with the same thread as your studs and cut them so that your left with just thread. Then extend 2 of your studs by using the nut as a bush to extend your studs with the length of cut bolt. You can now put your wheel on using these extended "studs" to guide and secure the wheel. I used the other two studs to "pack" on peices of 5mm thick steel plate to hold the weight when the car was released from jack and also as a guide for adapter thickness I would need. I found this was a good system because I played around with many diff thickness adapter until clearance was good all round and I could let the car sit for a good idea of it's stance. I might have lost you but a rough sketch below. Just be careful when you lower the car in regards to weight distribution. I kept the studs in a horizontal plane with the weight resting on the plates which as you can see had holes drilled in them so they could sit over the other two studs and not fall off. You can add and remove flat plates until you get the car sitting right with no tyre rub and filling out the guards to get the "look" right and once decided just measure the amount of packing you have to get the adapter thickness. Also good because you can check on steering and tyre rub on the front valance.

PZG302, Thats a really nice green for the Z! It reminds me of that british racing green you see alot of MG's in. If I had to start on a new car I would go that green colour with the black ZG flares and a tan coloured interior. What sort of wheels are you running on that car? SUlio

I like sky blue with cream colour interior however for something more aggressive that charcoal colour would look nice. The green is a nice classic colour and I reckon would like really nice if your planning on going the ZG flared look.

turns out the problem was with the choke. The car has'nt been started for years so just need to fiddle around with the carbs. thanx JB but luckily i won't needthe pump. cheers sulio

I think Nigels (NR240) are mounted off the strutt braces!

Yer depends on how much more $$ they ask for cross drilled.

Thanks sco_aus. Do you remember what they set you back dollor wise?

My front discs are due to be changed. I was thinking about buying these cross drilled discs for the front since the DBA catalogue show that they make them for the Z. I've e-mailed DBA for price hopefully get a response monday. Also I've been warned about going for both slotted and cross drilled re strength of disc issues. Anyhow I think they look good and mine is not a track car so I'm planning on buying them. Anybody have any experience with these and any ideas on how much for a pair? Oh the catalogue below for those interested. Note the height difference between the 240 and 260 discs! http://www.dba.com.au/DBASTDseries_cat.pdf Cheers Sulio

What did that one set you back Nate? Do you still leave the mechanical pump in line?

How much you want for it?