Toecutter

USD$7.95. Yer I might get the orange, white and black one in addition to the red one I just bought from them.

what a pisser, man they all look awsome, yer I just bought the one that looks like my car!

Sorry Huw, nothing til the dates posted. I don't think we have time to plan for anything that soon. Evan might be able to organise a drive day or something unofficial like that however I'm tied up up until Dat Nats.

Yer, I would'nt rush. Hey you might spot something good for sales at Dat Nats this easter! How did you get onto the 260 with the L28?

...damn I'm gonna have to put DATSUN badges back on for a more unique look! :wink:

Looks like it's worth having a look at. Just gotta wonder how good an original paint job can be after 30+ years!? I really like that colour though. If I bought something like that I would pull the interior out over a weekend and drop the car off with a beater and ask him to pull all the glass out, supply new seals all round and pop the interior back in myself restoring or replacing all the aged parts. If there's no rust in the engine bay why paint it unless it's gonna be a show car!? But then again if the motors tired it would be tempting to pull it spray the bay and stick an L28 with some tripples in there. Hmmm...maybe go for the L28 turbo you've found! :?:...or perhaps wait and see what the market offers!? ..ah at this point we've gone full circle back to where we started! ah...desicions desicions! :wink: Sulio

Hi guys, We are in the process of getting a calendar organised on the site for future events. In the mean time the forums will do for all upcoming meetings. The January meeting was great. The second meet has been tentatively booked at the same location. I'm sure we will have some great footage of the Nationals on the TV screens, food, drinks and much more... VICZCAR MEETING CALENDAR Next Meeting Details When: Wed 18th April 2007. Time: 7:30pm start, 8:30 for a brief presentation. Location: Jag. Club clubrooms. Address: 23 Rosalie St, Springvale Victoria. Calendar of events*. Proposed dates for 2007 meetings at Jag Club: ? 31/1 ? Passed Meet 1 at Jag Club ? Easter - Cruise to Phillip Island for Nationals ? 18/4 ? Meet 2 at Jag Club ? 22/8 ? Meet 3 at Jag Club ? 5/12 ? Meet 4 at Jag Club See you there! Cheers, Sulio Note, I'll update further details on our plans for the night over the coming weeks!

Thanks guys. Don't appologies about feeding me with good advice thats what I'm after. Your all right, my current L26 is actually fine, it's just that I get a little obsessed and loose patience sometimes. I'm gonna bring the motor in to work and pull the head off at some point, send it away after more research and I know exactly what I am to achieve with my hard earned dollars. As far as the bottom end goes I'll be asking a collegue at work a lot of questions and getting guidance there. He's been involved in building a lot of hot rods in his days and managed a engine building shop in the 80's, so the good quality tools should'nt be too much a problem as he's very helpful. I'll take my time and do it properly. In the meantime I'll continue my research and keep picking the brains of you blokes! Thanks again, Sulio

Thanks guys. Ben, your right about there being no real urgency to getting the motor in the car but I've just got a bit of an itch wanting to get into this spare motor. It certainly would be false economy putting it in only to pull it out a year later. So the cylinders are not a perfect circle? Is it preferable to have minimal to no taper in the bores? In regards to the mild cam I was looking at the same one as I believe ZD44TT is lloking at, The Stewart Wilkins 74 deg duration cam shown as mild. In regards to the valves my undersatnding is the seats can be machined at of "angles" to provide better sealing. Keep size the same. Your advise has been great. I know a bloke that works at MAHLE I'll see what he can get for me in terms of suitable performance pistons for the L series motor.

the engine in question was never in my car. It's an L28 I bought last year with the intention of learning on it and then putting it in my car. Thanks for the info, I will post pics when I get the head off.

no sco_aus I did'nt so what should the surface on the bores be like?

Hi guys, you will probably think I'm really lazy but I just wanted to ask about inspecting the bottom end without pulling out the pistons or crank. My current funds for my L28 are limited as the bulk of my money is going into 120K of extending/renovating we're in the process of doing so I'm trying to get the most gains out of the cash spent on the motor with the hope of putting most money into a new cam, a valve job with and hopefully some tripples at some point. When I bought this motor Warren (Zworx) told me it was running well in previous car with no smoke not much info but a good starting point. The is motor is currently on a stand in the garage. I was planning to check the following: -see if the cylinder bores are smooth, -check the crank movement in a horizontal plane within spec -and check the bottom half of the bearings ok? Is there anything further I can check to ascertain if the bottom end is good to go for a year or two until funding allows for new components down there or am I being foolish not to change things like bearings and rings whilst it's on a stand? OK More questions, bear with me it's a learning curve atm. Also, (ZD44TT asked similar question), If I take the head to get a mild cam installed, and the valve seats done do the valves them selves need to be upgraded and how big can the performance benefit be from changing valves, (I suppose some would say depends on condidtion of the currrent ones and the head engineering place would advice!??)? What is a reasonable CR that I can expect no pinging at using normal octane feul on an L28? Can this CR be acheived by just using a thinner head gasket or does the head need to be shaved? Thanks, Sulio *EDIT: Currently stock as far as I know N42/N42 combination.

hey Steff, yer I remember the one you had! Good old pizza delivery days. Those coupes are pretty hard to find these days. Good pic that one, looks tough from the rear too! I'm just a big fan of the whole 2 seater Z look from S30, S130 through to the Z32. bummer we got ripped off with the later models! I'm sure Gav will read this post soon enough, maybe he can give us some advice on why we are having trouble with the images!?

240ZR i think. I'm pretty sure you can buy the datsun one for about $20 from Nissan or e-bay, they come up abit but the fairladyZ badge is a bit rarer. There is also a guy in the US selling plastic ones but charging significantly more than Ash was on the last lot he made up.

Yer I suppose you would be doing a bit of a chuck out to do it up as a race car!? Those old 300's were pretty heavy were'nt they? I must agree looks very tough, good to get a 2 seater from O/S perhaps NZ!?

It's a real shame we could'nt get the old ZX in a 2 seater! Check this one out! ***EDIT: whats the go with the image insertion above?

From memory the pic was taken from a Japanese website but I'm pretty sure that actual photo was taken at The Tokyo Nostalgic Car Show, not sure how long ago. It might have been from this site! http://www.japanesenostalgiccar.com/

just get Ash to make some plastic ones from the steel ones he's got. If you ask nicely he might find the time to make some. I got him to make me 3 and I painted them up in about 20 minutes and had them on the car the next day.

you have to do some cutting and weld a piece in where the 260 reverse light goes

Yer I was planning to comp test my L28 and if good just leave the bottom end for now and spend my money on a cam and some tripples. If all goes to plan perhaps I'll have enough left over to send the head away for some head work. I guess your going for a mild cam to keep it street friendly? How much for the cam?

Hey ZD, what are the specs of the cam you have bought? Has the motor had any other work done by the previous owner?

the 240 rears are pretty easy to install and the electrical plugs where the same fo rthe 260 74 model. There is some cutting and welding involved though. Once you remove the 260 tail lights you will see what needs to be done it's pretty straight forward. i reckon the 240 lights look heaps better!

I found this interesting thread on HybridZ regarding differences between L series heads and best heads based on your requirements. I thought I would paste the meaty part of it here as it differentiates which head is "better" depending on whether it's a racing engine one is after or something quick but reliable and drivable for road use also. for the full thread click here... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104420 another good read... Custom Cylinder head building.. What?s involved? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108398&highlight=wipe+pattern

So where will you be picking up the wheels from? Has Dom got a new business location or you picking the wheels up directly from ROH?