gav240z

Hi Folks, Just following these so far as a guide. http://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2016-02-27/240z-headlight-switch-rebuild-pt-1-bodyshop-work-on-rear-quarters-started/ http://www.doyouevenhoon.com/datsun-240z-gtr/how-to-rebuild-datsun-240z-headlight-switch.html So in 1 of them it mentions a ball bearing, but I've not found any ball bearings yet. Here are some reference photos of me disassembling it. In this photo you can see these little "nubs" with a spring behind them. Which actives the contact switches. I only have 3 however and I suspect 1 popped out somewhere on the floor in amongst the thick carpet, or was missing before I got to it. Since this switch has 1 de-soldered wire on it already. Questions so far: 1. Can anyone confirm if there is meant to be ball bearings in here somewhere? 2. Should I have 4 of the little nubs I mentioned above? Or did AU market (RHD) cars only have 3? 3. I got stuck last night trying to undo the circlip here. Anyone got suggestions?

Based on chassis no. it's a 71.

All I know is that it's changed hands a few times in the past 12 months. Not sure why?

HS30 01425 is for sale. https://photos.app.goo.gl/M7lcAr4IMVnOTTCH2 See: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/16123-wtb-datsun-240z/?p=194632

This car is for sale again. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/15684-240z-with-l20a-engine/ https://www.facebook.com/jesse.kerin.3?hc_ref=ARSnOhHh0uu-bWhGfwyKq2wTEYOcF5q9AIUKTM6JS54fSFPTI85s-AC35ilD0KzjD9A&fref=nf

Turns out 4WD's are banned... So no more Nissan Patrol or Toyota Landcruiser from the 80s.. In which case I'm thinking something agricultural with spares everywhere and cheap like a VN / VP / VR Commodore?

Hey Folks, I decided to sign up today, not 100% sure I'll make this happen yet, but figured the first step is entry. https://www.shitboxrally.com.au/ I did a similar Rally across Morocco a few years ago and it was 1 of the most fun things you could do with a cheap old banger/bomb.

By the way Alan, are you running 40mm Solex carbs on your L24?

https://www.carsales.com.au/car/datsun/240z/?area=Stock&vertical=car&WT.z_srchsrcx=makemodel Take it you've seen those?

Refer to this thread here. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/5302-how-to-get-a-l28-through-vicroads/page-3 Should probably merge these threads too..

Direct link to my Google Drive. FIA recognition for Group 3. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_tGt5V5rGDVWU4yblYtWHZvaWM PS: If only I had a spare 1 of these...

Hi Folks, Just wanted to give an update on this, there is some progress... Ok so first of all you may know that I recently imported some Topy wheels. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/11264-safari-brown-i-mean-gold-the-nsw-project/page-20?do=findComment&comment=194045 I recently got notification also that my NOS 1/4 panel has arrived, just waiting on email to let me know it's ready for collection. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/15913-project-51-in-907-green/?p=192763 So far the import company I've been using has been good to deal with, but they don't really respond to emails (I asked them for suggestions on freight companies within the US to get parts to their Warehouse, once at their warehouse the rest is a piece of cake). The only negative is once the stuff arrives you have a very limited (3 days) to collect before additional storage fees apply ( don't know what these are like yet ). Also I have a small car, so carry a large amount of stuff may require I hire a small van for collection and pick up (additional costs). Right now my contact with many of the parts in the US is working through his stuff and hopefully putting the inventory in a spreadsheet with a list of prices etc.. Once he's come back to me with his costs I can start looking at options to ship to warehouse and look at getting this happening. My contact in the US has an account with MSA and said this would be possible (to ship direct from MSA to the warehouse). It would help if there would a group buy for items like this as the more we do the more efficient it becomes. Likewise with above, this is definitely possible but I was personally more focused on panels that are getting harder to find locally.

Gone now.

If you're on a budget, you don't want to own an FD. Parts are pretty expensive and fuel costs are also high along with insurance. MX-5 is a great choice for a budget sports car that is easy to work on, reasonable priced parts and probably hold it's value.

Nice if I didn't have the FD RX-7 and wanted a fun sports car it would definitely be the MX-5.

That's not entirely true. We may look at that after the mechanical stuff..

Is that the Rosebud car? Or another? Seems quick to have it up in Sydney already that's all. Nice you got an early MX-5. My favorite.

I would prefer to run a return line in future as I'd like to run the excess fuel through the Mikuni carb cooling bodies underneath as it will help keep the carbs cool and lower intake temps slightly. However the aim was to throw the carbs on the car then tune it, but as Locky has described it feels pretty spot on as it is. He said it feels quite quick now with the gearbox (close ratio box) and the Mikuni's on it. I don't run a regulator but if we go to the effort of dyno tuning and find it required we will fit 1. An electric pump with regulator might be beneficial. The jetting in the carbs was set up for a relatively standard L28, the motor in the car has had some port work, a mild cam, light flywheel, advanced ignition curve, E88 head with L28 valves etc.. So it's a little worked but nothing over the top. We might run out of puff if we put a more aggressive camshaft in it and it needs more fuel up top. It's more than likely the car will remain in Melbourne, my mum wants to sell her house this year and downsize, so I'm going to have a dilemma as to where to put it. But long term it's likely we'll settle in Melbourne as that's where our family is and Sydney housing is the second most expensive in the world. So I just don't see us staying here long term unless the real estate bubble finally bursts. But even then I think Melbourne is where we would prefer to be for family reasons. I've been looking at houses in Melbourne, but there is a slight possibility I'd bring the car up and maybe pay to store it nearby or perhaps rent a workshop / garage for my cars up here and rent a different house with a smaller yard and no garage. We shall see what happens. I do miss having it nearby. However for now I just keep paying Locky to do stuff on it - rather than waste that money paying for it to sit in storage somewhere doing nothing.

I heard it was due to imported asbestos building materials that now everything being imported is being checked for it.

OER fuel rail (has no return line I'm afraid), and standard mechanical fuel pump seems to be keeping up...

R-factory website if anyone is looking for the airbox Alan used. http://www.r-factory.com/ I can't see the airbox on their website, Alan is it a case of asking them for it? I just wanted to get an idea of what price it was. Just got Triples on my 72 but want a nicer looking Airbox. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/11823-evie-1972-datsun-240z/?p=194501

Just got this photo from Locky, seems he's having fun.

Just came across this photo.

I spoke with Lindsay Drife about this, he said the following when I asked about productions numbers and specifications. So it seems many of the records were thrown out in the big move out of the city (Elizabeth St) towards Dandenong. I haven't asked anyone in Sydney (Arnold Glass would have been the guy to ask) but I could try a few folks up here who may have known him or been involved with Datsun's back then. Perhaps they know or someone has hung onto records?

In order to help you find the right parts and part no's for your car, but also help me collection information on these cars etc.. I've put together this resource to help you find identification tags on any S30Z. 1) Manufacturer ID tag. Typically located on the engine bay strut tower (240z) but may be located slightly off the strut tower on a 260z (2 seater or 2+2). This plate gives you the chassis no. (VIN) and engine no. information. 2) VIN / Chassis ID. On the firewall (drivers side) just below the windscreen cowl panel and above the brake booster you should see the chassis ID no. engraved into the firewall. It's always a good idea to check the ID tag above has the same ID as your Firewall (to ensure the plate belongs on this car and vice-versa). 3) Engine No. To check which type of engine you have fitted (L20, L24, L26, L28) and it's number. Look for the plate cast area just below the spark plugs and above the starter motor on the drivers side ( of a RHD) car. Often covered in oil or grease after man years you should be able to clean it up and read the engraved number here. 4) Compliance Plate (Australian) Now we get to the Australian specific of the bunch, the compliance plate as fitted upon arrival into the country. This plate wasn't required until 1974. Up until then, some vehicles got them, but not all did. Early 240z's in particular may be missing these, however I've seen and heard of 73 240z's missing them also. However 74-78 260z's should all have them. If yours is missing have a read of this. If your car had 1 fitted, you can cross-check the chassis no against the other areas mentioned above, confirm the seating capacity, compliance date and what transmission type the car had originally (auto is often noted where as manual isn't). This plate is often fixed inside the engine bay either side of the strut towers but there is no real consistency to their fitment location so could be anywhere in the engine bay. FYI: The compliance date was often a month or 2 after vehicle manufacture date (roughly speaking) so you can use it as a rough guide for the year month build of your car. But of course be careful when ordering parts especially for change over dates and months as this isn't an exact science. You've been warned! Addendum Factory manual references to manufacturer ID plate, chassis ID and engine ID. Which illustrates movement of these plates between 240z/260z and 2+2's over different years.