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Came across this youtube gem thought I would post it up for all to enjoy

Here we go again...

C.A.R. doesnt find cars...cars find C.A.R.

With the repairs complete, we spent a week or so making the panels fit nicely adjusting the panel gaps to 5mm. The body was then scuffed with 240g and given a fresh coat of 2k Epoxy. After this it went off the to paint shop!

To continue, the doors and guards came back from being media blasted and the repairs continued with the door hinge plates being prepped and reinstalled, the door skins had new bottoms fabricated and TIG welded into place. The frames and skins were painted on the inside with KBS Rust Seal to protect them from any future moisture, then they were joined back together.

Not familiar with car but know the seller.

Always wanted a 6 speed - Not for the faint hearted this, i used a Godzilla Race Works Bell housing and a cd009 brand new gear box, you only have to cut of the font of the cd009 gear box then bolt on the Godzilla Race Works Bell housing- easy as, then bolt in the Apex engineering gear box mount and a V2 CD009 Gearbox Shifter relocation setup GK-TECH Australia,m Likewise Weighted Stainless Shift Knob with the clamp on threaded mount so you customise the height of the shifter, Custom Silk Shift boot - How does it go - its strong, pulls harder now, about 10km faster everywhere.

Grill Up Date Vinyl wrap on the slats silver, red, Blue Carbon Fiber Look. Red on the top silver in the middle and Blue on the bottom just like the Datsun Logo and the Engine that sits in the belly of the beast.

It been a while a few Up dates Sound System Grill Up Date Stainless Exhaust Gear Box - 6 Speed Seats Carpets Custom

Yes, Chris from S30 World was in Australia a couple of weeks ago, we took him to see Les Collins and he got to meet a couple of members here. He was only in for a quick stop over, so planning wasn't the best, but the 432 was a project he took on late last year and was something we discussed in Japan with both @HS30-H and Kats helping contribute to sourcing some of the original missing parts. It should be an excellent restoration and the owner seems to be quite comfortable with what S30 World are going to do. Be good to see one done right!

Hellow Fellow Zeder’s it’s been a while since I have posted, I have had a leaking oil pan from day one, since the full engine rebuild, cork gasket fitted. Engine was rebuilt by Les Collins team, so no doubt it was done right - as well it could have been done. Because I had a new Apex Engineered Cross member to fit and oil pan gasket to be fixed, but I didn’t want to remove the engine. I made up Engine Stand that bolts in four locations to the engine under the car while I have the car on the Quick Jack lift I have . Building it in two pieces makes it easier to get under the car the two locations, adjustable feet to make sure that the height is right and Bolt sections cut to length to marry up the front stand to the back stand so they don’t walk around. I used the two bolt hole tabs at the back of the engine, and the alternator mount on the left and then made up plate that spans the 4 bolt holes of the AC mounts, which I welded on vertical plate with hole to be the bolt hole location. It worked perfect the engine did not drop a 1mm. If you have not seen a Quick Jack they are awesome, I leave Quick Jack on the ground back the car over it just slide into the middle when not in use, spread it out to under the chassis Rails when I want to use it , the chassis rails are only about 20cm above the ground so its that’s to low for most jacks or lifts, but the quick jack can handle it, I did have too cut down the rubber blocks a little that it comes with. KEY Point I made up some steel reinforcing plates where it jacks from on chassis, highly recommend doing this, to protect the rails long-term. Some times I have the car up on the Quick Jacks for weeks at a time, once you raise the car locking trailing arms drag into position when you bring the lift back down a little and the trailing arms lock into a rail ladder, a pivoting cam at the end of the trailing arm flips back to let the splayed edge of the trailing arm hold-firm, so the lift is not holding on the hydraulic rams. Great design I have used the Quick-Jack stands 100s of times. KEY Point I made up some steel reinforcing plates where it jacks from on chassis, highly recommend doing this, to protect the rails long-term. Sometimes I have the car up on the Quick Jacks for weeks at a time, once you raise the car locking trailing arms drag into position when you bring the lift back down a little and the trailing arms lock into a rail ladder, a pivoting cam at the end of the trailing arm flips back to let the splayed edge of the trailing arm hold-firm, so the lift is not holding on the hydraulic rams. Great design I have used the Quick-Jack stands 100s of times. Anyway the idea was making a engine stand that holds the engine - so I can remove the Cross member and all the front suspension and the oil pan . Why all this craziness you ask. Well I got Apex engineered, Front Cross Member and Techno Toy steering Rack to fit as well and I also invested in a special Buna Nitrile Rubber matt that was only available from two locations that I could find in Australia, I used 4.5mm matt. This matt is used for making custom gaskets quiet often remote locations, mining sites ect, its high temperature, and has great sealing properties, and is highly oil resistant. I really could find anything to guide me to much in the process but once you have the Black Flexible Matt – Not Cheap, the rest is basic DYI really. Use Oil Pan flipped to cut the outside template, I used a soft lead pencil to mark the rubber around the outside of oil pan and mark all the holes for bolting through . I used a new box cutter style knife to go around the outside, I used a spare Oil Pan Cork gasket to mark the inside width for the gasket, I made up a punch out of the outer metal casing of a Dyna Bolt as it was the right diameter – I sharpened the outer edge buy mounting the casing to a cordless drill chuck a combination of metal file and sand paper to put a 45 degree angled cutting surface . Leving it in the drill on hammer mode with the spinning function as will carefully lined up all the holes and cut out the holes, I cut through pushing firmly vertically down, while having a plastic thick sheet of nylon plastic underneath so it helped keep the tip of cutting punch sharp, worked perfect My Oil pan it pretty beat up few knocks dents and repairs from the previous years before my stewardship – it shows some rough panel beating and even some welding when closely inspected so the mating surface on the oil pan not perfect and it would say a tiny bit warped at the rear end of the pan. So leaking from the cork might have been more of problem for mine than others. But my assumption that because of the raised central ridge design that that the Datsun Oil pan has on the mating surface this pushes into deeply into the cork if you apply to much pressure they will tend to leak ,if you don’t have enough pressure they also leak, would be much better if the mating surfaces were dead flat and thicker metal in my opinion and that would allow the use of gasket maker silicon to also work well in my opinion. But the stock pan is not that like and I don’t think you would get gasket maker silicon to work well either as it will just squash out left and right which means you would end up with silicon inside the oil pan which could clog up the engine. That’s why I tried the Buna Nitrile Rubber matt and guess what – it worked, the pan sits lower by about 4mm which adds about a half to 1 litre of oil to the capacity of the engine as well. No leaking so far. So what about the Apex engineered Cross Member and Techno Toy Steering Rack you ask? Well I went for the additional strengthening braces as well even know I already had custom fabricated my own brace previously that span the bolted ends of the Tension Control Rods, The braces that are optional with the Apex Engineered Cross Brace go back and bolt to the side of the steel pockets that house the end of the Tension Rods into the chassis rails. The mounting of the cross member not really hard to do, the mounting of the braces back to the side pockets was a really hard job to do, having the engine in place still made it harder no doubt but it was still OK with accessibility as you need drill three holes into the pockets, the holes are drilled to match the end plates of the braces, it’s hard to get the perfect alignment, but the other thing every chassis is bit different because of inconsistency in production or what your car might have been through in its lifetime so far, you may have to space-out the end of the brace on one side vs the other, which I had to do in my case I had to make up a 3 alloy spacer plates on passenger side brace, which was additional complication but not to hard to do just time consuming. It is pretty impressive once fitted not doubt considerably stronger and then you have about 5 positions to play with in terms of the lower control arm pivot point height positions, I used the second height pivot point in the end after the third position up made the car drive too erratic . I run the evolved Techno Toy steering knuckles as will with a spacer on the bottom of the struts so my Hight chosen for LCA pivot may be a lot different to some one with a stock shock set up. The MCA shocks were rebuilt after 5 years of use just weekend usage, the Right Hand Drive Techno Toy Tuning Steering rack also fitted tried it with the two bump steering plates fitted when I was trying the 3rd pivot location up, went back to one bump steering plate, when using the second potion for the LCA. The rack is said to have a ratio closer 280zx I think Techno Toy was saying which is faster ration than the 240/260z – But feel pretty perfect through the twisty’s, F1 Like minimal steering input needed, almost feels like a motorbike you look left around the corner and the cars already going that way - intuitive you could say. It was bit of coin and lot of time to fit but the combination of this whole new front end with techno toy gear, the MSA shocks, the new steering rack, the additional chassis bracing is pretty impressive, the handling way better than before, very commutative and firm, holds a line tenacious, with the previous set up doing rapid consecutive sharp terns like you would do to warm up tyres the car would just feel big and slow now sharp and reactive with great control - Its like 100% better in this circumstance . Every car is different and a drivers perspective on Suspension set up and feel is also quiet subjective – for me this was great improvement.

I had idea to add a graphic to the inside of the bonnet the Z is sort of begging for it really - I took a while to find a image that I liked the grove of, i came pretty close to using a neon city-scape scene from Japan but in the end went with stylized strong Geshia Girl graphic matched the vibe of the car pretty well could always change it out down the line potentially but it was not exactly easy to fit.