Rear CV's on a Zed advise wanted on beefing them up!

Well I am in the process of looking at beefing up my rear half shafts. I currently have a set of Z31 Turbo CV's in the rear of my car. They have been in for a while and I think there stuffed. So what do I replace them with? As some of you might know I run a V8 with 530bhp so I need something really strong. I have looked at the Wolf Creek CV's but I think they are rated at 400bhp. (Maybe that is just covering their butts) so maybe they could still do the job. Does anyone on here know if the Wolf Creek CV's would be any bigger than the Z31 CV's? Or should I just get new Z31"s. Or does anyone have a better idea on making a set up or putting something stronger in. Any ideas appreciated from the tech boys.

Link to Wolf Creek.

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61

Cheers

I have the Wolf Creek setup.  They seem pretty sturdy to me, however, I am yet to really give them a good flogging.  They dont take heaps of room, but a little more than a Z31 CV i reckon.  I have never heard a bad thing about them, but keep in mind, if you have already modified your hub to suit the Z31 CVs, you might need revert back to standard.  The one thing with them though, is you have to Loktite the bolts and nuts in, or they may come loose.

I'm setting up for Holden CVs - plenty of spares in 20+ years time.

While I'm using the Holden diff as well, I can't see why, with another adaptor at the diff end, you couldn't use them in practically any application.

I have the wolf creek cvs and so far no problem,but before buying them told them my application was drag racing and they said that if I was racing all the time they would not warranty them and they would break.But my engine is making alittle less than yours at the moment [the cheater no2 kit i have is looking good].They seem good done 12 passes and many killer skids no probs.I broke other things instead,diff mount etc.Spoke to a guy in nsw who does the vt conversion but it was over $2000 plus he wanted measurements and it was a bit confusing for me.Cant you get the cvs youve got rebuilt.

Considering how long you have had them, it might still be one of your best options, either rebuild or replace with newer Z31 CVs?  Sure they might be on their way out, but it has taken a long time has it not?

I have the wolf creek ones and they are OK. To be honest, I would do the Z31/2 upgrade that you have if I was to do it again.

The shafts have a LOT of backlash and make a fair bit of noise when changing gears due to this, even when tightened as much as possible. With the wheel off the ground and the suspension slacked I can turn one wheel about 15 degrees just on driveshaft play. It's always been there, not getting better or worse. I heard they are good for 500rwhp when I bought them. They are also pretty reasonably priced (Bout $1000 from memory with a good exchange rate)

They also are FOREVER coming loose (had to tighten them about 4-5 times in 2 years) for me! I have lock wired the outside bolts and locktighted all the inner and outer bolts, but the super graphite grease just gets into everything and it gets loose.

Other than that they seem very beefy. Only running 180rwhp but at the drags on slicks with 5k clutch dumps I have gone from busting uni's, to gearboxes (then went to Silvia gearbox) and now diffmounts  :-\

So yeah, they seem to be going OK, had them on the car for about 2+ years now. Time includes about 5,000K's road, 10,000 racing K's and about 15 passes down the strip.

Porsche 930 CV's & custom Molly shafts.

/End thread.

And another mortgage, you used the C word

isn't datrat's meant to be where its at?

Errol was makeing some to suit, but he's since wound up his business...

So Lurch do you think the Porsche 930 CV's would be stronger? Maybe I should have a chat with Errol he might be able to do me a special since he gets on so well with Gordo. Mind you it would be nice to pay $1,000- and just bolt something in. Sort of get sick of running around for custom stuff on the car but am prepared to do so if it is the best solution.

Whittie you've got me worried when you talk about back lash and CV's making noise. That's the last thing I want?

Dat392 you make them sound like they could do the job. Do yours make any noise? I presume you are running a V8 what sort of HP or klw do you have?

Scott whilst I hear what you say about rebuilding what I have. I really want something stronger. I don't want to be doing this every 3-4 years. I don't drive the car much and am striving for the perfect solution on all fronts. This just being another hurdle. DAT392 makes me think I should be OK with the Wolf CV's as I don't do drags and am pretty easy on the car most outings except on the track which is only a few times a year.

Keep the comments coming and I will update you on my progress.

dont bother messing around with already kit form cv solutions, go straight to the manufacturer and make one up yourself or get them to suggest one for you,

remember dif multiplies torque, ie 3.9 time input or whatever,

its torque and speed which is your only concern as powerekw or hp is a derivative of them both,

rate your torque in the shaft req'd then selct using speed and actual weight etc etc.

gkn driveline products are used world wide, they have a motorsports section on their website.

australian dist is in melbourne.... ya for you.

Or website cause im so nice

http://www.gkndriveline.com/drivelinecms/opencms/en/products/

and not a problem happy to help, just need some technical knowledge or consult some pro's, ps wont be under 1k unfortunately, but will be indestructable, ie used in the gm's origin of which your ls2 yea???

cheers nat0

Q's pm me

Unidrive

45-49 McNaughton Road, Clayton, South Victoria 3168, Australia

Tel: +61 3 9542 4100

Fax: +61 3 9544 8117

I may be looking for a conversion my self, tell me how you go.

Whittie you've got me worried when you talk about back lash and CV's making noise. That's the last thing I want?

Don't get me wrong I think they are VERY strong, but typical american... stuff... it's not made to the best tolerance's. When the wheel is not drooped you can't move the shaft at ALL. I do get a lot of droop so it could be that.

I just don't think they are the perfect solution. They were the 'best' solution for me given my power figures and the want for something cheap and simple. It's always a compromise.

Performance, Reliability, Cost. Pick 2 =P

Dat 620z mine arent noisy and havent noticed the lash like the other chap,but im running an auto.My engine makes 475hp and 495 flb at the fly and I think I met you at the barby that day.I too was a bit the same in different minds of what to do,but after getting them and other so called experts saw them{mechanics] we thought they were a good choice for my application and quality wise they looked good,well until they break of course like anything, time will tell.Done about 3000km driving so far, so good,but like I said the blokes warranty was for 400hp,so it is a risk.A guy I know bought some cvs for his porche as he cup races $7000 later and they break too.I think he said his motor makes 400+hp for memory but his application is extreme so good luck.

All good advise. Thanks guys. A mate just had his Wolf Creek CV's arrive this week. So I will go an have a look at them. Nato much appreciate that contact. They are only 10minutes from my work. So I think I will have to pay them a visit to discuss my problem.

Basically I am trying to gather as much into on the subject before making a final decision. Wolf CV's might do the job and are clearly the easiest solution. But I am not convinced they will last for my application. I will keep you advised which road I take. Cheers

no probs,

i like peters approach with the GM units just modded, but id do it with less adaptors and more replacement parts, ie a bolt up setup with replacement of the outer stubs and diff outputs if keeping the nissan units.

I have/had the 280zx/300zx r200 CV's behind my chev but not making the torque the LS2 does, and found that the original unis held up just as good if not better than tat style of CV provided you keep the uni shafts relatively level/straight, same principal for the cv shafts too however, as we all know what happens when using a socket & ratched with an extension, if youre not holding the ratched head it will twist off and away due to the eccentricity of the load about its axis, ie no load bearing supp't.

anytime, hit me up if you need more info.

nat0

I tried with original unis ,stronger ones ,but with a sticky tyre at 4000 rpm they sliced like butter.

has anybody heard or know if you can use a s14 Silva's CV set up on a 260z 2+2 zed ( with modification of course)

I'm just concerned that mine might hit the suspension arms

wolf creek  broke first run on my car. z31 2years very good. standard 260z shafts never broke? .did 20 10second passes on them.

Wow is that true Peter. I was looking at those Wolf Creek CV's. Just as well I had decided to just rebuild my Z31 CV's instead.

Just an update - Just called "Unidrive" and they don't do any custom, after market or rebuilds. So I am now trying Hardyspicer. I was advised against rebuilding the Z31 CV's as replacing the ball bearings is not enough. As the casing needs to also be honed out. Then you lose strength and then the bearings need to be over size etc etc.

So I am going to try and locate some new ones from somewhere.

wolf creek not as strong in my book ,as z31 .my Friends v8 4wd z with 700hpatw thinks so as well .he also exploded wolf creek shafts he now runs z31 shafts

check out - http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,7467.msg72634.html#msg72634

Well I just tightened up my wolf Creek ones the other day, I loktited the nuts onto the bolts for the adaptors and I lockwired the allen key head bolts, so should be the goods now hopefully

In this photo you can see what I did with mine to stop them coming loose, I put nyloc nuts and longer bolts on the inside of the joints: