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Posted

Just saw a colour that is very close to what I'm after. It's the Mercedes mountain grey colour, which is a very popular colour for the AMG models. Still could be a touch darker but I'd be fine with this.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=mercedes+mountain+grey&espv=2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=nc2OU6brD8ffkAXB9oH4Cg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1920&bih=979

 

The other thing I read about today is this fantastic product called Satin Guard http://www.prestige-films.com/auto_satinguard.shtml

Basically it's a vinyl wrap that's a very thick, scratch reistant clear matte. So I can have my car the colour I want it, with the matte look I was after, while preserving the brand new paint-job that I'll have on the car.

I don't want to be paranoid all the time that I'm going to scratch up the lovely new duco, i really want to drive this car, take it on long trips that may include some roads that aren't too perfect so having something

that should protect the duco for the next 7 years is a little like paint insurance in my mind.

 

Starting to see everything coming together now! :D

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Posted

Hmmm i might be a little uneducated here... but can't you just give a paint shop the colour code and they mix it up? Give or take a few bucks shouldn't it be close to nearly any

metallic paint?

Posted

Depends how many different colours and pearls they need to mix into it.

Posted

Goodbye big useless holes.

 

20140609_135305_zpshppyugzn.jpg

 

I'm still finding it hard sometimes to prevent blowthrough, even when there is a very small panel gap...

 

Oh yes, this will be my last bit of progress for the next month, I'm of to Europe on Friday, so I should be posting again by mid July!

Posted

See if you can fashion some form of heat sink to stick to the back of areas you can get to, like those bumper holes. I have a few offcuts of 2mm thick copper sheet, a few copper buzz bars i've taken off scrap forklifts from work and a few brass flat bars pieces. If i cant get a clamp in the area ill simply masking tape it to the backside of the area i need to weld in, maybe throw a few magnets on each end too to hold it in place. It really helps to stop blowing through the thin metal. Its what i used on the nose clip of my car when i put in a patch panel.

 

Rudolf.

Posted

Yeah that's a good point. Just most of the time it's either curved, or has no way of getting behind it. I've also found where I have used copper that sometimes the weld on the rear side doesn't look like it has properly penetrated and has little airpockets, which is fine, until you grind it down and get heaps of pinholes....

  • 3 years later...
Posted

How fast 3 years flies! Necro-ing the shit outta my old thread! 

 

Circumstances have dramatically changed, but my dream of owning one of these badoi's is still alive!

 

I've now come to the conclusion that a full body rust repair just isn't for me. Too demoralising... Lucky we have someone around like Lurch! (who as 

we know didn't have any morals in the first place ;p) 

So I'm shipping all the rust repair off at this stage with an ETA of work commencing some time around the end of the year/ early next year. 

 

Now I'm over that major mental hurdle, I thought I better get on to refurbishing and upgrading the running gear. I basically have a huge load of questions that I thought I'd ask here first, and if I don't get the answers I'll break it all down and do the parts post by post.

 

The goal for this build is to build a fun lively and predictable sports car. Excitement and enjoy-ability is key. This means I am leaning away from the "track car" style setup, but still want liveliness and predictability. My main build concept is that I won't go for coilovers as I from first hand experience know how poorly a linear spring type setup performs on our bumpy roads. I don't mind hard suspension at all, but don't like the harshness that non progressive springs provide. As for ride height, I'm sure there is some sort of optimum sweet spot so recommendations are welcomed. From an aesthetic point of view, I'd like it if the wheels can fill out the guard, but doesn't need to be tucked (I'm after 16x8 +0). I have been recommended Koni adjustable shocks (not sure red or yellow), but I am unsure of which spring would best suit my application (bit of progressive, but still firmish). Every other handling part should also fit in to this equation "The sweet spot" before it gets too serious.

I have also heard that when these cars are lowered a significant amount, they greatly benefit from a bit of geometry adjustment, so I assume some adjustable arms are beneficial. (More info here would be handy).

 

Here are the parts I'm strongly contemplating: (please let me know if they are worthwhile, and where best to purchase them from)

- Adjustable Track control arm 

- Adjustable radius rod

- Adjustable Rear transverse link

- Adjustable sways (front and rear) (what weight?)

- Lower (swivel) balljoint (to sways)

- Engine mounts

- Full bushing kit (Fulcrum superpro recommended, but I am very keen to hear more info about the pros and cons here)

- Full bolt kit

- Clutch/ flywheel (which what?)

 

 

Here are some parts that I am considering, but am aware that their cost can be significant, or I don't know enough about them yet:

- Brake upgrade (There are many options I know, but I still haven't found the consensus on which is most ideal...)

- New wiring harness (seems like a good idea, but how expensive and accurate are they (ie. right plugs and wire length?))

- LSD diff (I know super expensive! Are there any other options besides coughing up 2K+?)

- Steering rack refurb?

- Driveshaft upgrade (lightened/ strengthened worth it?)

- Mustache bar upgrade (worth it?)

 

 

I THINK that's it ;p I know, too much info, but I will break it down into other threads if anything gets missed.

 

Thanks in advance!

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