garvice Posted August 6, 2011 Posted August 6, 2011 http://www.snakebite.com.au/vdoblackelectronicspeedometergauge300kmh-p-194.html?zenid=a6567ab3bf3f97b4555221a265e03c57 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/86016-vdo-tacho-original-type-face/page__p__815654#entry815654 Quote
jamo240 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Posted August 6, 2011 Wow Garvice...your tacho thread is really something....I used to work in Holden engineering, and recall the science that went into OEM gauge creation so that the light coming through the dials was consistent and all that...it's an art form. That you have made it work without all those resources is remarkable! Hats off to you! Do you think I could do a similar thing with a speedo? I want the speedo to look like the factory one...I don't want it to look like an aftermarket replacement. Cheers Jamo Quote
garvice Posted August 6, 2011 Posted August 6, 2011 Do you think I could do a similar thing with a speedo? I want the speedo to look like the factory one...I don't want it to look like an aftermarket replacement. Yep, That is why I posted it. Quote
Sirpent Posted August 6, 2011 Posted August 6, 2011 Great thread Buddy and equally impressive work ! Cheers John Quote
jamo240 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Posted August 6, 2011 Thanks Sirpent...you're doing some nice work yourself. I will have it ready for the Xmas party (assuming it's on!), so you can see it for yourself then if you're there! Jamo Quote
jamo240 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Posted August 6, 2011 Thanks Garvice...that's good to know. I don't intend on doing the speedo work myself, so when I get to that part, I'll start with Ringwood speedo service and go from there...may well lean on all you've learned so far to make it come out right....it does seem simpler to retain the electronic speed sensor and upgrade the dash unit rather than try to retain the elec sensor as well as a cable drive. I only have a few weeks mechanical work left, and then it will be into all the wiring and electrical/electronic work where all these issues are going to come out. I reckon I've got most of it covered, but I've identified about 5 knotty electrical/ECU issues that will be a challenge. Cheers Jamo Quote
Sirpent Posted August 6, 2011 Posted August 6, 2011 Well Jamo Im planning a bit of a welcoming BBQ next month for the Melbourne boys when my new bling gets off the ship, so your more than welcome to come along and take a look at my hunk of metal too Cheers John Quote
zzzzed Posted August 6, 2011 Posted August 6, 2011 Well Jamo Im planning a bit of a welcoming BBQ next month for the Melbourne boys when my new bling gets off the ship, so your more than welcome to come along and take a look at my hunk of metal too Cheers John make sure you keep your bling in a nice safe place.. i wouldnt want to see a repeat of what happened to pete Quote
garvice Posted August 6, 2011 Posted August 6, 2011 Just read through the thread (good to see my thread got you to post about your car) you've done a bit of work there. Would be interested in seeing the sump photos. I am getting a flange cut at the moment so that I can make one for my rb26. Could use some inspiration. Quote
Sirpent Posted August 6, 2011 Posted August 6, 2011 make sure you keep your bling in a nice safe place.. i wouldnt want to see a repeat of what happened to pete Dont want to Hijack this thread Mick Lets just say that its very unlikely considering the security its under. And youre welcome to come to Mick Quote
zzzzed Posted August 6, 2011 Posted August 6, 2011 would love to come but i am trying to find time to fart at the momnt Quote
Bigfella Posted August 7, 2011 Posted August 7, 2011 Hey Jamo Great work I love your thread. It's gonna be a rocket when it's done. Out of interest, How did you go about removing the body deadener? Just a scraper and hard work? Cheers Matt Quote
jamo240 Posted August 7, 2011 Author Posted August 7, 2011 Hey Bigfella Thanks for the compliment. I got the deadener off using a combination of hard, filthy work with the scraper and heat gun, and also wire brushes mounted to my angle grinder (they make a heck of a mess but do a great job of removing the deadener). I used them for the harder to get at areas where you can't get at with the scraper. The pressure washer also did a fair job of removing the looser stuff as well as the 40 years the black cacky shyte that accumulates everywhere in the tunnel from various oil leaks over the years. Finally, thinners do a good job of softening the deadener so its easier to get off in areas that the other methods can't get at. Cheers Jamo Quote
mossy Posted August 7, 2011 Posted August 7, 2011 Too late for you now Jamo but i found the best way too remove the sound deadener was dry ice for the deadener inside the cabin, maybe it would work underneath too? I bought the dry ice bricks and laid them onto a section for a few minutes then a couple of small taps on the floor with a hammer and it popped off in big sheets. Quote
Bigfella Posted August 7, 2011 Posted August 7, 2011 Thanks Guys. I like the way you think Mossy Quote
jamo240 Posted August 7, 2011 Author Posted August 7, 2011 OK...Sunday update. Steering rack now finished off and ready for paint. Here are some shots for you to see how it all works. 1. Pic shows the gusset welded into the RH engine mount pedestal to stiffen it after a section of the inner wall was removed to make clearance for the steering pinion. 2. Pic of steering pinion showing clearance to the RH engine mount pedestal. 3. Pic of steering intermediate shaft universal joint to RH engine mount pedestal. The clevis bolt comes the closest, so I will use a button head unbrako in service. Minimum clearance is around 9mm. 4. Pic of the whole box and dice, complete with all the plumbing. The much talked about pressure restrictor is in the pressure hose which is kinda sticking up in the RH side of the pic covering the RP7 can! You can also see the bracket on the LH engine pedestal which holds the pressure pipe crimp so that the pipe stays still while the engine moves...this is essential to make sure the rubber hose flexes and not the steel pipe which would eventually fatigue and fail. The cam timing diagram was to explain to my young cousin how cams work....I do all my best layouts on the bench, and the best bit is it only takes some thinners to remove all incriminating evidence! Next post will show a few close ups of the plumbing. Cheers Jamo Quote
jamo240 Posted August 7, 2011 Author Posted August 7, 2011 Hey again. Here is a close-up of the plumbing. You can see the inclusion of the pressure sensor in the pump to gear pressure hose. This is used by the ECU to increase idle air when the pump is loaded up. Cheers Jamo Quote
jamo240 Posted August 28, 2011 Author Posted August 28, 2011 Hey guys...some more progress to report. After finishing all painting (under the frt frame rails where the rotisserie bolted on was last), it's time to start putting it back together. The power steering installation is now complete, and I'm happy with how the geometry has worked out. The pics show steering arm spacers, but I have since removed them, as I want to more closely mimic the roll couple at the rear (note I have also raised the inner control arm pivot point too, so that will do for now). Quote
jamo240 Posted August 28, 2011 Author Posted August 28, 2011 Also, here is the finished rear suspension all buttoned up. Note the relocated brake hose junction with the steel pipe. I had to relocate it to provide appropriate strain relief for the rubber hose....I did it while it was on the rotisserie, so it was easy to do, and got painted so you can't tell it's modified. Rear brakes are HSV VS Commodore, but with VT calipers. The 36mm diameter VS pistons could not pull up the rear wheels effectively, so I went to 45mm VT calipers. Fortunately the VT aluminium caliper fits onto the cast iron VS anchor bracket, so I was able to carry over the VS installation, as the backing plate contains the Commodore park brake (drum brake inside disc rotor).....with the Porsche GT3 brakes up front, the car certainly stops when you jump on the pedal. Oh...and one pic of the power steering rack thru the radiator panel! Cheers Jamo Quote
peter mc Posted August 28, 2011 Posted August 28, 2011 nice work jamo i like the front brakes they should work a treat Quote
jamo240 Posted September 11, 2011 Author Posted September 11, 2011 Evening all.... Good progress made this weekend...even rebuilt one of my quarter windows with new seals etc. Like all the quarter window frames, the mild steel bracket where the bottom meets the vertical member was rusted through, so had to be replaced. That all worked out fine, and with the new seals, it fitted up a treat and looks like a brand new one...gaps to the door are spot on! I also replaced the rear hatch glass rubber and hatch seals. All looks brand new now, and I've been able to put the stainless steel trims back into the seal after 23 years on the shelf! The bad news though....when I torqued up all the rear suspension bolts, the rear lower control arm to strut stud (the one held in the strut by the cotter pin) stripped one of the threads at the rear end before it made 60 ftlb. Consequently I need anothery! Sooo....does anyone have a surplus 240Z stud they are willing to part with (including nuts would be peachey!). Otherwise, it's all going back together as planned, and I will put some pics of the RB25 sump build up so you can see how I'm doing it. Cheers guys Jamo Quote
Roberto Posted September 11, 2011 Posted September 11, 2011 Are you in need of the spindle pin or cotter pin bolt? I may have a spare spindle pin you can have. Pic would help. Quote
jamo240 Posted September 11, 2011 Author Posted September 11, 2011 Hi Roberto Yes, it's the spindle pin with the M12 thread on each end (where the nuts go) that I need, not the cotter pin that holds it in...the cotter pin is fine! If you have a spare one, I'd be much obliged if you can spare it. Let me know how much, and I'll fix you up. CHeers Jamo Quote
Roberto Posted September 11, 2011 Posted September 11, 2011 Jamo, i have found one. No payment necesary. PM me a mailing address and i will post it tomorrow. (BTW i can't find the nuts for it, but you could probably pick them up at any hardware very cheaply) Quote
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