fuel tank

[zedls1]

Hi all,

 

looking for 240z 73 fuel tank with no leaks, anyone have one?

 

thanks

John

[RB30X]

I've got one from a 71 model. You'll probably find one closer to you though.

 

[FLEXZED]

hey mate

 

i have one of a 74 260z ( been told itds the same )

 

Loui

[.]

I have fitted a tank from a 2+2 into my 240z. It fits fine but you must use the tank straps from the 260. Plus the straps don't line up with the indentations in the tank but that's not a big issue in my book. The tank does hang down a fair amount further than original but I figure it is a cheap ar5e version of a drop tank. It does not hang down far enough to be an obstacle.

[C.A.R.]

I have fitted a tank from a 2+2 into my 240z. It fits fine but you must use the tank straps from the 260. Plus the straps don't line up with the indentations in the tank but that's not a big issue in my book. The tank does hang down a fair amount further than original but I figure it is a cheap ar5e version of a drop tank. It does not hang down far enough to be an obstacle.

+1

I run a later 260 2+2 tank in my 'Early Girl' with no problems. I even managed to get the 260 straps to fit in the indentations OK.

Also they are also slightly larger in capacity, which is nice

[Scoota G]

This is me filling up on Saturday in My 260Z.

[RB30X]

What, dirty old 91 unleaded scoot?

I thought you'd be running 98 Optimax with a spoon full of lead and a bucket of avgas.

 

[Scoota G]

What, dirty old 91 unleaded scoot?

I thought you'd be running 98 Optimax with a spoon full of lead and a bucket of avgas.

 

Tried the lot and it seems to run best on the Safeway 91 . . . Just better fuel consumption on highway miles with the Premium.

[NZeder]

What, dirty old 91 unleaded scoot?

I thought you'd be running 98 Optimax with a spoon full of lead and a bucket of avgas.

I believe 98 and avgas don't mix that well - 91 and avgas mix better

 

All this is a little off topic - this man is looking for a 240z tank.....checking parts catalogues it looks like the early 260z tank could possible be the same. I say could. We know/believe the early 260z 2 seater shell is the same as the later/last 240z shell with some minor changes for the tails lights etc. The parts number are different for the tanks however

 

up to 07/73 and L24 aka 240z is part number 17201-E4100

from 08/73 to 08/74 and L26 aka early 260z part number is 17201-N3500

 

then the later 260z has two part numbers but also list they are interchangeable - these tanks are different to the 240z items and will not fit into a 240z.

09/74 to 07/75 = 17201-N4500

08/75--to end of production = 17201-N4501

[zedls1]

Thanks for the info guy's. Hmmm, the leaking/sweating is coming from around the welded patch where the fitting is that the hose from external fuel pump connects on to the tank. I tried a short term fix and used some knead it for metal, didn't work.  i guess i can remove the tank, wash it out, I've heard there is some product available in liquid form that you pour into the tank swirl it around and it creates some kind of membrane to stop leaks, does anyone know of this product? Or i can cut that patch out and re do it.

 

John

[.]

I have heard that minties have an interesting property. If you chew them then shove them into the hole in a tank the minty reacts with the fuel and hardens. I wouldn't suggest it as a long term fix but could be an interesting short term fix.

[Riceburner]

Try JB Weld, that'll fix it. Its like cross between two part epoxy/araldite and need it for metal. It's fuel proof and sets like steel. I've used it before on manifolds, carb bodies. It'll be a reliable, simple fix. Burson stock it.

[NZeder]

JB Weld will do the trick - seen it used on a sump for a number of race seasons with no new leakage of oil - it was applied with no oil around that part of the sump at the time - but bolted to the block - it was not 100% flat = flex = the small crack would open up but you could have it on the bench not bolted up, full it with liquid and no leaks. JB Weld was the fast fix that lasted a long time and would still be working if the sump was not fixed correctly/welded up.

[Zedman240®]

You may have to remove the tank and get the hose connection braized with an oxy torch. Problem is when some people remove the hose, they yank on it and pull it from side to side thus breaking the weld on the tank. You have to be careful when removing by holding on to the metal pipe while twisting off the fuel hose.

[NZeder]

You may have to remove the tank and get the hose connection braized with an oxy torch. Problem is when some people remove the hose, they yank on it and pull it from side to side thus breaking the weld on the tank. You have to be careful when removing by holding on to the metal pipe while twisting off the fuel hose.

or do as I do - a hose can be replaced = get out the knife and cut alone the hose if it is tight = better and cheaper than fixing a tank.

[maddos]

POR 15 do a tank repair kit which claims to seal small leaks. Sounds like what you're talking about.

Have a kit at work which we're putting through an old combi fuel tank.

From Auto one I think or autopro.

[zeds4ever]

Science is a wonderful thing , it can sometimes confuse the imagination. Ha Ha.

                 

                                                                          Regards; Alan.

[zedls1]

Thanks for all the info guy's, at this stage I'll drive it around as is, if the fuel is around 1/4 tank it's ok. I'll empty the fuel and pull the tank out and do a proper fix hopefully over the xmas break.

 

John