Z's 71 240Z

[Z]

Cheers Simon, thought I'd put a few proper pics up as I've been a member for a few years and not really put any up.

 

Dish. Is. Good. But I think you can get two lip types, these ones seem to be missing a curve and are flat straight out from the actual centre. Kind of hard to describe but if you see older Simmons they have, well an extra curve. Haha, I'll give up now!

 

Hey Matty, yes it was in there for a fair while all in all. Must have been around six weeks, maybe more. Should have paid rent 

[Roberto]

Hey Z, what springs is your car sitting on?  Looks nice and low esp in the first pic.

[Z]

Hey Rob,

 

To be honest I couldn't say how much the springs have been lowered, but I know they are King springs. When I got the car the springs were already put in by Pedders in 2006. The original rims came with something like 65 profile tyres, looked pretty shiver. I had 225x45 GT Radials with the 16inch rims thrown on, and it's sitting as it is now.

 

Definitely 1 inch, prob a little more I reckon.

[Z]

Got a few things going on with the car but at the moment the hardest part to figure out is the rear end!

 

I've bitten the bullet and bought the Modern Motorsport shortnose R200 conversion kit. Sometimes I wonder if it would have been easier to just wait for a good ole longnose to turn up... but that's the fun I guess. It should be good as you can find whatever ratio VLSD shortnose for a few hundred bucks.

 

Took the kit down to a wrecker mate and thank god the American Q45 diff is the same as our R200's so the kit will fit, but am having real trouible getting a stub/axle solution. Todd at Wolf Creek says that a standard 5 hole longnose R200 stub won't fit into his axles (as they need to be the right stubs to make a VLSD work), I've got some 300zx turbo axles here, not too sure if they are part of the solution, maybe I should go shortnose R180... arrrgh any suggestions would be veeery welcome!

[Z]

Haha try and get this message from VicZCar:

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Gavs recent post on his Calendar clock promted me to add this info about Ron. He is a total professional, good communication all the way through the refirb, he is worth every penny. I already have a Calendar clock restored through him, the pics are my RC which was sent back by him last week.

 

Other RC info:

Questions asked about 2-knob Rally Clocks

 

1)  Why is my clock noisy?

Ans: The clock is noisy because the motor and gears are turning a t 360 rpm 24/7. This is normal gear train noise.

 

2) If I unplug my clock when not using the car will it extend the life of the clock?

Ans:  No. Like any mechanical device once in motion you should keep it in motion.

 

3) Why does my clock loose or gain time certain times of the year?

Ans: The 2-knob rally uses a tuning fork as the time standard. Another words the tuning fork is what keeps the clock accurate just as the quartz  standard today is what keeps the clocks accurate.

The tuning fork operation pushes air and is susceptible to the density or change in temperature. The warmer air is easier for the tuning fork  to push. When the air is colder the tuning fork moves slower.  The quart unit in today's clock(s) are  encapsulated in a sealed hermitic unit that is and not as susceptible to temperature change.

 

So basically, the guy is guru!

[gav240z]

Awesome, yeah I'm really looking forward to receiving my Rally Clock(s) from Ron. I was originally thinking of selling 1, however I might just keep both (1 for each Z). I just wish he could re-furb all electronic components in a Z. Like turn signals, wiring looms, other gauges not just clocks!

 

On the show "For the love of cars" where they restore a Mini Cooper. There is a segment on a guy who restores classic car gauges. Alan Davis is his name.

http://youtu.be/_8F6CZi7sXw (~36 mins in)

 

Sadly it would seem that their profession is a dying art.

[andyk_79]

I just wish he could re-furb all electronic components in a Z. Like turn signals, wiring looms, other gauges not just clocks!

 

Amen to that !!

[d3c0y]

There is no reason you can't do those things yourself, its not that hard you just have to sit down and have think about it and get a soldering iron.

[Z]

Gav I'd keep keep them, there are silly numbers being bantered around overseas, it will only be more costly in the future. I'll keep my Cally as its just kewl.

 

If you want another professional job on other switches, I have my light/indicator combo switch with this guy at the moment and his finished product is also top notch http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/services

 

Pricing is reasonable at $90 US for this:

"Completely tear them down, clean everything, regrease only what needs regreasing, realign contacts, replace worn or broken parts, Polish the plastic, paint the turn signal stalk (if needed) and basically try and make it work and look as good as possible. I've done a few Concourse refurbishings, hundreds of rebuilds and no complaints yet. I've actually had a few people ask where I found a replacement switch for their switch, and I had to explain that it was just there switches, cleaned correctly. Funny stuff."

 

When it arrives I'll throw up some pics so you can decide if it suits you.

[53-681]

Amen to that !!

 

If you are interested, I know a guy. He re-wires old hot rods, mustangs, etc.

 

He's a very close friend and he also did my car.

 

He'll re-wire dash's, stalks, looms, radios (auto antenna, etc).

[Z]

Had to save this to my thread for easy watching overandover, one sexy clip:

 

[Z]

Time for another overdue update! Seeing as some work has been planned for under the car I started poking around the rear arches.

Mankind clearly moved ahead at a rapid rate after the invention of the angle grinder! Noted a little rust flake in the arches and ended up doing both sides, shit of a job:

Put dust all over the garage, but then again they are done now. Matt put me on to the POR-15 alternative, but I cannot remember the name of the product as it was a while ago. The following pic shows a little on how it came up.

[Z]

Have been after a rear drive solution for quite a while. After mulling over availability of parts, waiting time, strength, cost and an overall brake to diff solution - settled on 3.9 R200 LSD (300ZX) with custom shafts from SWM, being the most local and easiest option. After talking with Stew Wilkins he said that "smoothing" the diff would only gain 1 - 1.5kg...

 

  

So without any further regard for a 1k diff I got started, took off five!!!

 

  

Look, it could very well go "pop" but we shall see:) Here she is mounted up.

 

Front diff mount is also SWM - a thing of beaudy!

Edited September 26, 2015 by Z

[Z]

S14 71C gearbox upgrade finally in. It has been in the car for well over a year now, but had the old girl in storage straight after the install, which caused some problems. New master and slave included but the master did not seem to be working. After pulling it apart and putting back together still no joy, so back to Jim Milner and he got the thing in gear again.

   

Really is a great upgrade; newish/stronger box up against a 260z bell. After finding the correct measurements (thanks Whittie) then off to a shop for blasting and bell mods. Box no longer falls out of gear and the Tomei shifter makes things nice and short. Well recommended.

 

New drive shaft measured to suit (approx. 50mm shorter) and SWM gearbox mount to bolt it all up.

Edited October 13, 2015 by Z

[dat2kman]

Gotta say, on close inspection f the diff and gearbox mount, they are certainly well built!

[drays]

Nice work mate, Hope my 240 turns out like yours

[Riceburner]

The SWM front diff mount is the ONLY real solution to the factory mount weakness!

[dat2kman]

The SWM front diff mount is the ONLY real solution to the factory mount weakness!

There s anther quite good one, although it does mount it as a sold mount to the front lower crossmember.

[Z]

Cheers Drays, its thanks to the community in my case that she is moving along a bit now. The diff mount didn't seem any more noisy than normal from a quick road test a few weeks ago. Will take it for a better run once the car is back on wheels to be really sure though.

[PZG302]

Nah, the best front diff mount solution is still the easiest old school trick, and cheapest.

 

A bit of chain and a bit of rubber hose over the chain.....

 

And the alternative to the Por15 is KBR.

 

Works a treat. I have painted the whole underside and engine bay of the S14 with it.

[dat2kman]

Thats nt a diff mount,

That's the solution to stopping the nose f the diff kssing your elbow, as it comes ripping up through the floor, on those hard racing take-offs!

[Riceburner]

I've used all of them.

 

New genuine factory mount with chain= useless/noisey as the mount fails and the chain eats throught the rubber (my chain broke under power, ruined the handbrake assembly and my underpants!). The drive home was equally terrifying   

 

The solid billet mount= very noisey & cracked crossmember as the diff twists unless you use solid moustache bar mounts.

 

RT type with urethane mount= shaving of urethane mount to get correct driveline angles which results in weakening of the mount.

 

The SWM mount although expensive is the best solution, do it once and do it right. It uses an OEM rubber mount encapsulated in the crossmember, even if the bush completely disintergrates the mount still works with very little play.

 

It's rubber so the noise is very quiet, same as a factory mount without the eventual clunk as it starts to give way.

[dat240z]

Don't cheap it mate. You're on the right track with the SWM diff mount. I installed one after many other types failed and it's been flawless for me. Yes it a little expensive but it's well and truly worth it in my opinion. You'll have complete piece of mind

[Z]

Yeah I reckon PZG has been snorting KBR! That mount is nice and snug and as you all say, should be a winner. Going to convert to electronic ignition so have started cleaning up the 280ZX distributor and coil/bracket for eventual install.

 

 

Cant think of a better way to spend a public holiday afternoon - Happy Labour Day everyone!

[Z]

Thought I'd post up some of the work that has been happening to the beast over the last little while. Thanks certainly go out to Dat2kman for all the hours spent figuring the car out, dealing with a fussy owner and having the car for so long. Basically all suspension, driveline and brakes have been restored or upgraded to make sure the thing is safe and can handle power. It has been a real pleasure being involved and learning from someone who actually knows what they are talking about.

 

The car has been at The Gap for a fair while now and firstly it was about making sure all the parts were accounted for and ready for install. Getting her up on the hoist/blocks allowed us to see what the current situation was even though most of it was being replaced. As you can imagine 40 years of people doing their best (and not so best) became evident. One example that came to mind was handbrake cable fastened to its bracket with just a bolt, nothing else... gravity lock! Plenty more parts have been used in addition to the ones in the pics and much more time has been given than what the pics show, but basically the complete diff bracing, struts, LCA's, axles and brakes have been updated.

As mentioned it has taken a fair while to date, but it is always made easier with other car nuts being around to talk metal, Fairladys galore (as you can imagine) and a beautiful little Alfa that was just perfect.

The work begins...