Bigfellas Bus - 1975 2+2

[peter t]

If you want measurements of channel just yell out as I have a bit left over somewhere. Any sheet metal place can knock them up for you. I got plenty for only a few bucks cash. 

[Bigfella]

Thanks Peter

Is it just 1mm or .9mm the same as the rest of the car?

 

[peter t]

Not sure of thickness of material but will check tomorrow. Dark and stormy atm and have no power up at the shed. 

[Riceburner]

I got new rails for my 73z from Warren at allzparts, I recall it being 1mm. Maybe he does a 2+2 version as well?

[Bigfella]

I got new rails for my 73z from Warren at allzparts, I recall it being 1mm. Maybe he does a 2+2 version as well?

Thanks Gareth may be worth a try.

 

Hey Peter, What would stop me from getting a rail made up that fits over the top of the entire existing one. I was wondering if it is necessary to cut the old one away.

 

[peter t]

What I found was mine had been repaired before {capped} in places where the original was bashed up. Only prob with capping without cutting is you can't see what is underneath and you are creating a place for rust. At least when you cut the bottoms off you can treat the rust.

[Bigfella]

Thanks Peter great advise.

Do anyone know if there will be any issues as far as getting the car back on the road. Would this kind of work require engineering certificate? I'm still trying to work out what mods I can do without getting a certificate.

 

[peter t]

Best I can measure the steel is at least 1mm thick. Inside 64mm Ht 40mm. This will slip over old rail and you can spot or continues weld them in place. Hope this helps.

[peter t]

Thanks Peter great advise.

Do anyone know if there will be any issues as far as getting the car back on the road. Would this kind of work require engineering certificate? I'm still trying to work out what mods I can do without getting a certificate.

Not sure but it is hard to get panel beaters to fix rails. Just do it and paint heaps of blackstuff on and don't tell them.

[Bigfella]

 

Not sure but it is hard to get panel beaters to fix rails. Just do it and paint heaps of blackstuff on and don't tell them.

Thanks a heap Peter. Seeing pictures of you car eases my mind a lot. It's funny how just the fact that someone else has taken on the same thing eases the mind.

I think I will wait until I get the rotisserie built before I tackle the rails

[peter t]

Makes sense as very hard to work on your back. I tried it then built the BBQ out of engine stands. In never tipped it all the way over but it was a dream to work on at right angles. Again check my build thread. Have many more pics if you need any ideas. Also try the search function on this site as other members have posted a lot of the same thing and that is where I got my ideas from and the Atlantic site. Search function saves a lot of hours on the computer. Top right hand is a box. Type in what your looking for eg. {rails} click search and away you go. Good luck.

[Brabham]

If they have only been banged up a bit you could knock the rails out roughly and just patch where the rust is. If it has bent the floor you will need to fix that. You don't need an engineers certificate to weld in/strengthen the rails. Cheers.

[Bigfella]

I was finally aloud away from the family today, I got to go and do some work on the bus today. I pulled the rest of the inner sill of and started to clean it up. Not looking to bad.

I was wondering if anyone can give me some advice. I am going to POR 15 all the innards, but I was wondering what I should do on the seams. I'm guessing I cant put POR 15 on there as they have to be spot welded. Any help would be appreciated .

 

Thanks

Matt

[benny]

maybe weld-through primer on the seams??

[Bigfella]

maybe weld-through primer on the seams??

I not sure I would get a good weld if the back has primer on it. I know how much the mig hates paint.

 

[benny]

its not just primer its weld-through primer, see link-

 

http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepot/weld-through-primers.aspx

[Bigfella]

its not just primer its weld-through primer, see link-

 

http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepot/weld-through-primers.aspx

Ahhh Making sense now. Will have to look into this.

 

Question is can you get it here.

 

What have others done in the past?

 

 

 

 

 

[zzzzed]

yes there are a few different brands of weld through primer on the market here. We use a wurth pressure pack spray through primer at my shop. Its a bit more expencive but it is good 

[Bigfella]

Thanks Mick and Benny. I finally tracked down some WURTH brand stuff today.

Onward I go. Once the temp drops.

 

[peter t]

Keep going mate. My BUS is almost finished after almost 3 years.

[FuzzyDropbear]

I was wondering if anyone can give me some advice. I am going to POR 15 all the innards, but I was wondering what I should do on the seams....

 

This is a pretty sill-y question! 

 

There has to be one doesn't there? You can tell I've spent too long at work today 

 

Looks great Matt, good to see another bus coming back together.

[Bigfella]

I got back out into the shed today. It has been awhile.

 

I thought I would tack on the sill today. I have been making it up blind, as the existing one on the car was totally rusted away.

 

Things were going along well, at least I thought. I have been using the other side to give me an idea of what I have to do.

But I had a sinking moment when I realised that I hadn't been looking at the other side well enough.

 

I have just noticed today that there is a rebate down the sill where the guard fits into and I have no idea how I am going to achieve this.

 

I dont know if any others have done this or even have any ideas of how I should go about it. But I would really like some advice.

 

Thanks

Matt

[Sirpent]

Matt

 

You are in a pickle, but there is a way and its only a suggestion and should retain the rigid integrity of the sill.

 

1st, Define the line by fitting the guard and maring the extreme point of the overlap.

2nd Draw a perpendicular line 3-5 mm back

3rd Using a hacksaw not cutting dic, saw along the new line

4th Cut a 30 mm section of the sill away forward of this cut and remove it

5th Fashion a underlay section from sheet metal approximately 100mm wide to match the contour

6st Spot weld this new piece to the inside of the 30mm cut section

7th Slip the new 30mm section under the original cut by 15mm and the opposite forward section under the forward sill cut

8th Spot weld in place creating a panel overlap sandwish at each end

 

 

There are probably a number of ways to accomplish the rebate however this method should allow to create a formed structual gusset.

 

John

[C.A.R.]

I wouldn't even bother with that swage line Matt - just overlap the outer panel on.

Buy the time it gets painted you'll never know it's sitting slightly proud. It's only 0.9mm thick steel after all..

[Bigfella]

Thanks so much guys.

 

John, Excellent advise. Thanks for the great description. But I have to say I like Lurche's advice I think I will go with plan B!

 

Thanks agian

Matt.