Glen Posted February 24, 2009 Posted February 24, 2009 Well i have done a few things to my car but i havent really put any stuff up so i thought i should start. To tell you the truth im a little lazy with taking pics and stuff. Anyway on sunday i changed my plans from a well built L28 and went the RB route instead. Why because there are lots and lots of options with the RB and a lot cheaper aswell. I know the L series looks ten times better with triples hanging off them but if i can get the same power from a RB for half the price well then thats me Last night i picked up 2 RB30's, one's head has been rebuilt while the other has a blown head gaskit. I got the castle main mounts, loom and new extractors with a brandnew PBR clutch, re-coed Inj and new fuel pump and new coil/leads and gearbox all for $1200 which i thought was great. The power im expecting is around 100 to 110 rwkw's. Not great but i should have a nice torque curve all the way through the revs. My plans are to get the RB30 going and then keep a lookout for a RB25 so i can change heads which will be a nice upgrade again for little outlay. Today i took the motor/gear box out. Tomorrow i shall clean up the bay and paint the Rb block something other than black. I like to see oil leaks. Things i have to find is how to connect the throttle linkage to the RB motor so i shall be reading up a bit more. Quote
reverendzed Posted February 24, 2009 Posted February 24, 2009 Good on you glen, great to see you moving forward and excited about the future plans for your Zed, I'll look forward to keeping up with your progress. Rev. Quote
Glen Posted February 24, 2009 Author Posted February 24, 2009 Thanks Rev, heres a picture of before i started. The motor ready to come out coming out And as you can see i have some cleaning to do *note the carbs are for sale in the for sale section.. Quote
C.A.R. Posted February 24, 2009 Posted February 24, 2009 What happend to the engine Len was building for you? Quote
NZeder Posted February 24, 2009 Posted February 24, 2009 My RB that I purchase from Japan was painted the Nissan Blue over the stock black. Like you I like to see if I have an oil leak etc. So I decided on a colour like the original 432 S20 block - a bright silver. Here is pic for reference - The odd colour is the acid etch primer under the silver this was fixed on the following coats we just missed this first time around. Quote
ZD44TT Posted February 24, 2009 Posted February 24, 2009 how much power did the 432 motor make anyhow? nice progress. Quote
NZeder Posted February 24, 2009 Posted February 24, 2009 how much power did the 432 motor make anyhow? nice progress. depends on spec but here is what I do know. Road car was rated at 160HP vs 150HP for the 240z and 400cc less. Race cars well that is a different ball game 250HP was the reported output back in the day ie 1970 so not bad for a 2000cc. You can get 2.2 stoker kits in Japan these days for the S20 engine so I would think this would make a little more. Big $$ for these S20 engine hence why some of us are doing the N/A RB setup cheaper and have the feel of the original at a lot less $$ One day that lotto ticket will come in (must purchase ticket to win though) and I will fly to Japan and see if I can purchase a real 432z....dreams are free at least....well for now until the govt find a way to tax that too. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted February 24, 2009 Moderators Posted February 24, 2009 If it helps Glen, I used a throttle cable from a TE Magna (96') for my RB25. It may be short for you but depends where your throttle body is. Also I'm not sure if the 260Z accelerator pedal has the same cable connection as the 240Z does ie for the hand operated throttle in the 240Z. If you can chase up a 240Z pedal it may make it easier to hook one up. Quote
Glen Posted February 24, 2009 Author Posted February 24, 2009 Thanks dimitri very useful info cheers. Quote
NZeder Posted February 24, 2009 Posted February 24, 2009 No only the early girls have those cable connections - the pedal is not a strong also as I bent mine in my 240z that had one of these early pedals. The 260z pedal is much beefier. Quote
matsdat Posted February 24, 2009 Posted February 24, 2009 Hi Glen, looking good, do you need to modify the RB30 sump to get the engine to fit into the zed engine bay? what gearbox are you using? (5 speed from VL or skyline) Quote
Glen Posted February 25, 2009 Author Posted February 25, 2009 Castlemaine Oil sump, Also its a RB30e gear box so im unsure if it is out of a commy or r31. I thought the main difference in the drive train between the 2 was the diff with the commodore running a taller diff. Quote
matsdat Posted February 25, 2009 Posted February 25, 2009 Not too sure if there is much of a difference between the gearboxes, i had always assumed that they were the same. Do you know if you can fit a rb20 box to the rb30 without mods? Did the custom sump from castlemaine set you back much? I am very interested in watching your conversion. Quote
Glen Posted February 25, 2009 Author Posted February 25, 2009 Not sure on the gear box 20 to 30 i suggest you get on skylineAus and have a lookys. I bought everything as a package secondhand but in new cond so you would have to ring them to see how much. The RB isnt going to have killer power 100-110kw but its the options it leaves me after its in To bring up some power i would have to throw 1K at it minimum cam/cam gear/upgrade tune ecu, cai the extractors are already on. i might see 125rwkw's if i was really lucky. option 2 is RB25 head with cam/cam gears but to do it properly is going to cost $$ and then option 3 is to grab as much VL turbo stuff as i can, put a decomp plate on and turbo it. Option 3 will be the best money to power option which should yield around 130-140 rwkw's without stressing the motor to much. I havent made my mind up yet so i shall just get the thing going first. Quote
Glen Posted February 26, 2009 Author Posted February 26, 2009 RB is in but im waiting on a gearbox mount, it came with a prefabed G/B mount but it needs finishing and id rather get the castlemain one instead. I found some useful info regarding gauges for which parts to use with exsiting datsun gauges. Water temp gauge - Use S13 or R32 Skyline sensor Part No 25080-89903 Oil pressure gauge - Use Z original sensor screws straight in Amps/Volt meter - no change Oil Temp Gauge - I used an additional water temp gauge fitted above the oil pressure gauge and used the Z original water temp sensor that screws in the RB20 sump. (see my website) Speedo - use Navara D21 Ute mechanical gearbox Pinion Assembley Part No 3270202G17 Im also currently sourcing some turbo goodness and have located a couple of decent bolt straight on kits very well priced. Quote
sco_aus Posted February 26, 2009 Posted February 26, 2009 Speaking from experience, be careful on any cheap turbo kits. I have seen manifolds with holes (big ones) in them around welds, cheap turbos destroying themselves in the first 10 mins, of being used, wastegates failing leading to turbos blowing etc. Not suggesting you were going to, but you really do get what you pay for with turbos. Quote
Glen Posted February 27, 2009 Author Posted February 27, 2009 Speaking from experience, be careful on any cheap turbo kits. I have seen manifolds with holes (big ones) in them around welds, cheap turbos destroying themselves in the first 10 mins, of being used, wastegates failing leading to turbos blowing etc. Not suggesting you were going to, but you really do get what you pay for with turbos. I agree 100%, i turboed my last car and didnt take many short cuts there. The RB is more appealing to turbo having the VLt stuff around makes it a whole lot cheaper. I will be running all the VL turbo gear (ecu/Inj) as minimal. If i do my research and continue to pick brains that have already done this project hopefully it will come together nicely. I have already been informed high mount mani is a head ache. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted February 27, 2009 Moderators Posted February 27, 2009 Glen, I may have missed which gearbox you are using; have you got a turbo or N/A gearbox? If it's a turbo one, the Navara speedo drive is ok. If it's a N/A box you will have to get one from a VL or Nissan Gazelle 85-86? model. I have a new one here if you can't locate one. Quote
zedevan Posted February 27, 2009 Posted February 27, 2009 it came with a prefabed G/B mount but it needs finishing and id rather get the castlemain one instead is that the one that is wide and bolts into the floor in a few positions? does anyone know of a gearbox mount which you can buy for rbz's that can easily be dropped out so you dont have to take the engine out to get to the gearbox? or is it as simple as using one from a skyline etc and welding appropriate tabs to the car? Quote
Glen Posted February 27, 2009 Author Posted February 27, 2009 is that the one that is wide and bolts into the floor in a few positions? does anyone know of a gearbox mount which you can buy for rbz's that can easily be dropped out so you dont have to take the engine out to get to the gearbox? or is it as simple as using one from a skyline etc and welding appropriate tabs to the car? the castle one is almost the same, difference being the rb box sits maybe 2-3 inch further back. The red arrow point to the front of the car, they sell these for $180 Quote
Glen Posted February 28, 2009 Author Posted February 28, 2009 Just a question for those RB peeps that have done this, Wiring, i have the castle main loom which plugs straight into my ign plug. What i want to know is how much of the old stuff can i get rid of. Those fusable links dont look all that flash and i was wondering what my other options are? I pick up turbo tom night have gone a stock T3 (vl) turbo stock mani running 10 psi will deliver 175rwkw's, more than enough to put a smile on my dial. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted February 28, 2009 Moderators Posted February 28, 2009 Sorry Glen, cant help with any wiring...used a Wolf V500 ecu on my thing. Still have all the stock wiring in the engine bay. Quote
NZeder Posted February 28, 2009 Posted February 28, 2009 I can't help either as I have not get that far and I will be using a after market ECU also. I too am going to remove the fusible links replace with fuses when I install the relays for the ECU, Fuel Pump etc I did once see an article on a US Zed Club site on how to replace the fusible links with a more modern fuse setup. I will see if I can find it again.......searching now......found it http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/maxifuse.htm Quote
Glen Posted February 28, 2009 Author Posted February 28, 2009 coolies thanks heaps NZ. My mian loom is sorted just wanted to tidy up teh fusable links. Quote
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