Glen ~ RB install

[JP]

coolies thanks heaps NZ. My mian loom is sorted just wanted to tidy up teh fusable links.

 

I put a circuit breaker after the battery and chucked out the whole fusible link/voltage regulator assembly from the engine bay. The red/white power circuits that used to get power though the fusible links are now connected on the otherside of the circuit breaker along with the alternator.

 

This works, but from a fire saftey point of view the circuit breaker trip point may be a little high. You could wire some car stereo maxi fuses to the individual red/white circuits if you want to be extra safe.

[Glen]

Thanks JP some useful info.

 

Went and got the turbo, all stock VLt gear. If anyone is interested in doing the same thing make sure you get a series 2 block, If you get a series one block you will have to tap in all your water and oil lines. I picked up stock manifold, 3 inch custom dump to cat, oil/water lines included with stock turbo. Turbo is in great condition i got the guy to take me for a drive first. Im also using the stock VLt ECU which is great to run up around 10-12psi with the factory turbo. Inj are under 5000k's old. Im just waiting on the gear box mount now and i will pick up my intercooler + pipping tomorrow night.

 

 

IC

 

 

 

[gav240z]

So your going turbo? Not a bad idea really the RB engine is quite a motor. Any issues with engineering it in a 260z?

[stevo_gj]

Glen you're doing a bloody great job of this write up so far. Keep it up mate I know I'll be reading your stuff when I do my conversion

[Glen]

Heres a nice post i found. Even though they say a turbo oil/fuel pump isnt required i dont think its some thing to give a miss, if your going to spend 2k doing it then you should put in the little extra bits and finish it right. This was compiled by a dozen people that have done the conversion with good realiability.

 

N/A Highcomp Turbo Setup

 

#####IMPORTANT#####

This is to be done ONLY after you have upgraded your brakes to turbo spec! N/A brakes and a Turbo DO NOT MIX, they WILL choose to FAIL at the worse possible time

###################

 

 

###################

GENERAL INFORMATION

###################

Non Engine Parts

Brakes on the VL TURBO are larger, and they have got finned calipers

Rear brakes are always DISK on a VL Turbo

Diff on a VL turbo is 28 spline Vs 25 spline for non turbo (28 is MUCH stronger)

Master Cylinder (brake) is 1" instead of 15/16'ths

Brake Booster is Double Diaphram in a turbo car

VL turbo Manual is stronger MX7 vs MF5 (non turbo is useless)

VL TURBO auto is stronger and has an oil cooler

 

 

Original Turbo and Non Turbo Differences Engine

There are a few differences between a Turbo engine and a Non Turbo engine from factory

Cam

Oil Pump

Pistons

 

Engine Block

The Turbo aka series 2 engine block has got the fittings as bolts in the last picture of this post.

 

Identification of a Factory Turbo engine block

a8 designates rb30et, a6 designates rb30e. It will only be on the number at the RIGHT HAND FRONG of the motor, the number at the left hand rear will always end in A (thx yep_boost)

 

Turbo

The Turbo Used is a Nissan Garrett T3, which is watercooled, it has an internal Wastegate, which is set to approx 6 PSI.

 

Fuel

Try running your car for a month or so on HIGH octane fuel, ultimate, vpower and all, because thats what you WILL NEED to run after you do a high comp turbo conversion, if thats too expensive, forget the turbo

Fuel Pump

N/A Fuel Pump Is fine to use with the conversion

 

Camshaft

The Turbo camshaft has got less overlap than the non turbo one both are useable

 

Knock Sensor

When it detects pinging, it will retard the timing 5 degreese, if you are running a turbo computer there is a guide on installing one somewhere on calaisturbo

 

Oil Pump

N/A Oil Pump Is fine to use with the convserion

 

Fuel Regulator

N/A Fuel reg can be used with the conversion (Not With Turbo Plenum)

 

Fuel Rail

N/A Fuel Rail Can Be used with VLT injectors (Only With N/A Plenum)

 

Plenum

N/A Plenum can be used with the conversion (Flows Better Too)

 

Automatic Transmission

N/A Auto Transmission is hit & miss, highly recommend the first to do list is to get it bulit stronger or Aid it with Transmission Cooler that may increase its life some what, as costs to buy/replace one would reach around $300-400 proffesionally done

 

Manual Transmission

The MF5 is a very weak box (i broke 2 with a very stock N/A) they wont handle too much, if you drive like a granny, it sould last 6 months or so....

 

The coolant line labeled 3 in the pictures i had a few issues lining it up to the block, For 70-80 dollars you can get one made from the line with adjustable fittings also makes it a breeze and less chances of leaks, as these lines can bend. (michael2427)

 

 

Exhaust Manifold

The Standard Holden Manifold is used, be sure to check if it is cracked, also it would be a good idea if you replace the studs, by spraying with WD40 or similar

Turbo Dump Pipe

the holden one is fine, you can get a larger one

Dump to Cat pipe

The standard one is used, although you can get a larger one made up

Crossover Pipe

It has got one fitting on the side, which is a Vacuume hose that goes onto the AAC valve at the rear of the intake plenum

Injectors

the top of the injectors should be BROWN coloured, you MUST use Turbo injectors with a Turbo Computer, you CANNOT mix and match, if you use NON TURBO INJECTORS the motor will not get enough fuel, and most likley wont last over a week

Computer

You NEED a turbo computer in order to run the turbo injectors, an Auto computer will run both manual and auto cars, but a manual computer will not run an auto car.

Computer Identification

3TA = Turbo Auto

3TM = Turbo Manual

3EA = Non Turbo Auto

3EM = Non Turbo Manual

If no stickers on cover, Open the ecu, A turbo ecu will have a second green computer board on it for the knock sensor

Oil and Water lines

they bolt onto provisions made in the later model VL Series commonly konwn as series 2. it is advised that if you have an early one, to get a S2 motor to use (see Picture Below)

the water return goes to a heater hose on the other side of the engine with a T piece

 

Parts you will need

 

Turbo Dump to cat pipe

Turbo Exhaust Manifold

Turbo Injectors

Turbo Dump pipe

See picture above (number 5 in it)

Turbo Computer

Crossover pipe

**OR**

Intercooler kit (i.e GKTEK)

Oil and Water lines

Intake Elbow

 

See Detailed images below

 

 

 

 

Misc Parts

Exhaust Manifold Gasket

Turbo Gasket

Middle plenum gasket

Dump to engine pipe gasket

Engine pipe to cat gasket

New Exhaust Studs with Nuts and Washers

http://3/4 90 Degree Bend hose, 3/4 BSP to 3/4 Barb Brass Fitting

14x1.5mm Banjo Bolt with 2 washers (brass or alloy)

12x1.25mm Banjo Bolt with 2 washers (brass or alloy)

Silicon Hoses (Or rubber, doesnt matter)

Hose Clamps

Heater Hose

HOW TO DO IT

 

*Removing Old parts*

Disconnect your Battery

Releve Fuel Pressure

Jack the vehicle up and place it sturdly on stands

1. Drain your water and oil

2. Remove your intake pipeing between the AFM and Throttle Body

3. Remove your Exhaust manifold up until your Cat

4. Remove the top half of your Plenum

5. Spray The circled bolts with CRC/WD40/RP7

6. After some time, remove these 3 bolts

7. Clean the gaskets from the Plenum from the Exhaust side of the block and the Cat (shove a rag in the runners to stop crap getting inside them)

8. Spray CRC onto the Exhaust Studs, and use the 2 nut trick to remove them

9. Remove the Injector Rail and Injectors Remember, to MARK YOUR INJECTORS (release the pressure by cranking the car with the fuel pump fuse out) (remember the return and feed pipes and mark them)

 

*Installing New Parts*

1.Using the 2 nut trick again, Install the new exhast studs makings sure they are in firm and not cross threaded

2. Put the new exhaust gasket on the studs, and place the Turbo and Exhaust manifold on it, do up a few bolts slightly

3. line up the oil and water lines on the block, and bolt them up gently

4. do up the exhaust manifold, torque it up according to the manual

5. Do up the oil and water lines on the block

6. source a water hose, and place a T piece in the heater hose for your water return pipe

7. Install the Dump to Cat pipe using new gaskets and possibly sticky exhaust stuff to stop leaks

8. Install the Turbo Injectors and connect the fuel lines

9. Bolt on the top half of the plenum using a new gasket

10. Bolt up your Intake elbow to the front of the turbo

11. Bolt up your Cross Over pipe from the Turbo to the Throttle body (or install an intercooler)

12. Remove the passenger side kick panel and computer which resides in there and install the turbo computer

13. Refil your oil and water making sure to BLEED your water system

14. make sure you got fuel pressure, and start it up, checking over the engine, to see if any oil leaks, water leaks. there may be smoke due to the new gaskets, but that is fine

 

 

 

*****Disclaimer*****

I take absolutly no responsibility in this guide, its only instructions, if you stuff up and blow your motor, it is NOT and i repeat NOT my problem. Please take care when you do ANY mechanical work to a car, follow safety procedures, if your not sure about anything STOP and ask somebody that knows, or get somebody else to do it.

 

 

Here's a pic of what a VLt ecu looks like.

 

 

Difference between a VLt and  VL ecu is that the VLt has a second circuit board connected to the top of the ecu with a BLUE plug running to the main board, see this in the picture. Im showing you guys this stuff as they (the younger gen) will try and sell you anything so its something to keep an eye on

 

As far as engineering goes Gav id say a bigger brake master cyclinder would be in order and also some bigger brakes for the front and throw on some rear disc brakes aswell. The actual mounts from castlemain should already be engineered but i will double check.

 

[nizm0zed]

awesome writeup.

 

couple of things i wanna add for you though.

1. Oil pump.

 

Yea, the stock NA oil pump works fine, but, the turbo ones flow better (only really becomes an issue in the twin cam engines, at sustanied high rpm)

the other known and very common issue with the pumps is the drive face.

its driven off the nose of the crank by two flat surfaces.

the pumps are known to crack, due to the way they are driven, and the fact that the flat surfaces only have a small surface area on the pump itself.

The soloution to the problem is to fit a crank collar to the nose of the crank, either a JUN one, or an ESP one.

this is a job for an engine builder/machinist, so can only be done when the engine is apart. can easily cost $500 for the job though.

Its also highly reccomended to upgrade the pump at the same time. The GTR pumps are very nice pumps, and work well.

second hand they can set you back over $300 though.

If you want a new one, the JUN or N1 pumps are good, but start around the $700 mark.

all of this information can be found in detail on the Skylines Australia website.

 

2. ECU.

 

If you are going to use the stock ECU, you can get the stock NA R31 or VL ECU reprogrammed.

I discovered a bloke on the R31skylines website that does it.

He goes by the username of 'darkhalf'

when he did mine he charged $80 for the service. i expect prices have gone up though.

That way i was able to utilise a R31 auto ECU on my twin turbo conversion and keep the costs right down.

Obviously you still have the factory limitations of the standard ECU.

He simply loaded the VL turbo program onto my R31 Auto ECU.

 

3. Injectors.

 

VL Turbo injectors are fairly well sought after, for many applications. a second hand set can easily cost $300 and still need a full service.

I need to look into it, but i think the holden Piazza turbo injectors are the same, as are the L28 280ZX injectors.

Dont quote me on that, it needs to be verified.

 

ultimately though, if you arent keeping the factory ECU, its is best to upgrade to a fuel rail and push in injectors.

a conversion rail will only cost around $100, and injectors to suit your application can be had anywhere from $50 for a set (EF EL falcon 6 cyl, high impedance) upto some crazy figures for high flow monsters.

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

there is some VERY GOOD info there on injectors, including flow rates and impedance readings.

 

i converted a R31 skyline RB30 into a twin turbo, made my own turbo manifolds and piping, i had to research all of this while building the motor.

[Glen]

Just a little update, i had the tail shaft sent off for a cut weld and balance. shortened by 20mm all for $154. very good value in my book. I could have almost got away with it but i didnt like it. Hooked up the turbo and cut down the old Dump as it didnt work in with the firewall. Started sorting through the inlet manifold and hooked up the all the water/heater lines.

 

next is to hook up all the right hoses for the inlet plenium and then put the loom in. After that i just have to hook the IC piping and mount the IC. Then i shall turn the key to see if anything happens. I been a bit down with the lack of work atm but hopefully will have more pics up soon. 

[sco_aus]

I'm not surprised you haven't had much work done with the amount of rFactor you have been doing.

[Glen]

I'm not surprised you haven't had much work done with the amount of rFactor you have been doing.

 

Shhhhhhhhhhhhh lol