Rebuilding a L28, F54/E88

[Toecutter]

Well I've picked up another L28 from Lurch to build up and not need to pull mine out for any significant period of time. The motor is dissassembled atm however pretty much all the bit's are there minus the cam which I'll pick up some time. My aim with the motor is to build it up for a fun weekend street car that would see the occasioanal track day. I'll try and do it with a budget in of say $2500 for the rebuild. I'll use my existing 40mm tripples on the new motor when it's ready.

 

It's a F54 bottom end with what I understand to be a late E88 from a Skyline L24. The heads had bigger L28 inlet valves fitted.

 

I look forward to this being a learning experience. I hope to drop the motor off early in Jan to have the block, crank etc cleaned up and prepped for some new flat top pistons, (I'll talk to the engine builders to see if the flat tops will be too high in compression, I guess I'm safe at 10:1 on normal petrol). Hopefully a new set of rings is all thats needed. A reground cam to mild specs with a little bit of head work, (the wallet will decide how far to go).

 

I hope to post progress in this post however open to advise as I go so feel free to give me some tips.

 

So as far as the bottom end goes as I understand it the crank will be checked and balanced, (with a new harmonic balancer supplied by me). I hope to get my hands on a spare flywheel that I can have lightened about the same time. My other note is buy a new timing chain kit including tensioner etc.

 

Any tips as far as head work is concerned? From my reading so far this is where I can expect to get bang for my buck as far as power is concerned!?? Would I be on the right track looking at a cam regrind (say 72 deg), three way valve job. As far as port matching goes my understanding is the heads inlets are matched to the inlet manilfold's openings size for smooth air flow in to the head. Are the exhaust ports ever touched?

 

I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions as I go.

 

Cheers,

Sulio

[C.A.R.]

Sul, that head has already been cleaned up down the ports & the valve seats have been radius cut to suit.

A 3 angle valve cut is not necessary. However, a through porting session & flow bench test would be in order!

[Zedman240®]

I'd recommend a 74' cam as the 72 is just good for the street. Spoken to many zed enthusiasts who have regreted the 72 choice. The 76' is good for all out racing!

[Glen]

I ended going 72 for 2 reasons, 40mm dellortos and because thats what len is using. I told him 74 originally but he must have forget, no big deal i can go 74 later on if i choose to. I like to think of it as a bit of a upgrade.

 

Sulio dont forget to add a decent clutch aswell, i think i ended up looking at 1K in bits and pieces for the motor. hopefully we will all have new motors at the same time  

[Toecutter]

Sul, that head has already been cleaned up down the ports & the valve seats have been radius cut to suit.

A 3 angle valve cut is not necessary. However, a through porting session & flow bench test would be in order!

 

I did remember you did say it had some head work done in addition to the bigger valves. I was gonna talk to you further about it for an update. I'll need to start a note book to keep all info for future reference once this motor is in the car.

 

I'd recommend a 74' cam as the 72 is just good for the street. Spoken to many zed enthusiasts who have regreted the 72 choice. The 76' is good for all out racing!

 

Last BBQ I was hoping to catch up with a few people and get feed back on their engine builds re cam selection but the day just went so quick. Dimitri, I thought I'd stick with the tripple 40's and I thought going to a 74 might lose my bottom end and them not get the most out of the top due to limited air flow through the 40's? What do you think about this point, am I under estimatin the 40's?

 

I ended going 72 for 2 reasons, 40mm dellortos and because thats what len is using. I told him 74 originally but he must have forget, no big deal i can go 74 later on if i choose to. I like to think of it as a bit of a upgrade.

 

Sulio dont forget to add a decent clutch aswell, i think i ended up looking at 1K in bits and pieces for the motor. hopefully we will all have new motors at the same time

 

Hey Glen, so what did the 1K get ya?

 

Sulio

[Glen]

You just pulled my head out of the sand its closer to $1500

 

Oil Pump...Hi-Volume                         A$137.00

Cam Shaft                                       A$130.00

Timing Chain Kit L28                       A$110.00

Bearings Main Set L28                     A$89.00

Piston Set 6 Cyl 86/87mm Flat Top          A$244.00

Water Pump                                   A$69.00

Clutch Exedy sports tuff Ceramic            A$340.00

Gaskets/spark plugs/ oil/ coolant etc        A$200.00

Oil Cooler/hoses/plate-adapt etc              A$200.00

 

Im sure there will be other things to like buying the right chokes/jets for the carbys. You dont have to get stuff like new water pump but if everything is done right i mis well finish it off properly. Im aiming for a good club car. Not a race car and not a street car. I bought some 2inch SU's just incase im completely out of funds and cant setup the triples properly. But im sure i will find the $$$, Men with a mission always do

[Toecutter]

...and your motor is currently with Len Brennan? What do expect he will be doing as far as head work?

 

Sulio

[C.A.R.]

If that's the total price, I doubt that will include any modifications to the head...

[NZeder]

If that's the total price, I doubt that will include any modifications to the head...

I would agree - good head work does cost as there is a bit of labour involved but good results will be achieved if the guy knows what he is doing

 

If you can do a rebuild for $2500 good on you - my last L28 cost me $8500 AUD but that was a 3.0 and included some special parts from Japan and put down 230HP at the wheels on pump gas.

[Glen]

...and your motor is currently with Len Brennan? What do expect he will be doing as far as head work?

 

Sulio

 

Sulio i should be expecting it back from lens late jan early feb, As far as head work goes i would have to ask him next time im out there. If your ever down my way we could go have a chat to him. Then you could get some real answers instead of me guessing.

 

Lurch are you talking about my motor or Sulio's??

i have only mentioned the price on parts and nothing to do with a total price.

[C.A.R.]

Yes. I got a bit confused.

[Glen]

thats ok its christmas

[Toecutter]

If that's the total price, I doubt that will include any modifications to the head...

 

in that case it'll just have to be a mild cam.

 

I would agree - good head work does cost as there is a bit of labour involved but good results will be achieved if the guy knows what he is doing

 

If you can do a rebuild for $2500 good on you - my last L28 cost me $8500 AUD but that was a 3.0 and included some special parts from Japan and put down 230HP at the wheels on pump gas.

 

$8500, ouch, Mike I know you don't take short cuts so I'm not surprised with that but certainly won't be expecting that sort of power at the wheels so hopefully I don't need to go that far with cash. To be honest if I was looking at that sort of cash I'd just sell the car and get a 240 with an RB25DET fitted. I'm not fussed about any "period correctness" (making words up as I go  ) just need to replace the tired L28 currently in the car with something fresh with a bit more get up and go. I'm using this other motor as I hope it does'nt become too drawn out and I can just install this motor when it's done over a weekend so the car stays drivable whenever I want it.

 

Sulio i should be expecting it back from lens late jan early feb, As far as head work goes i would have to ask him next time im out there. If your ever down my way we could go have a chat to him. Then you could get some real answers instead of me guessing.

 

Yer will be ineteresting to see what he recommends. Lets see how we go over the coming weeks.

 

 

[Glen]

Im expecting 3-4k for the motor and we are expecting around 125-135rwkw's running 10-1 comp with the right headwork done. It's not over the top power and should suit 40mm dellorto's nicely, i hope that helps. BTW his hourly labour rate is 1/2 of a engine builders workshop. He does the motor in his spare time. Its more of a hobby for Len.

[kalium]

 

 

It's a F54 bottom end with what I understand to be a late E88 from a Skyline L24. The heads had bigger L28 inlet valves fitted.

 

 

 

 

 

I rebuilt my L28 with a late model E88, unfortunately still with the smaller valves though. I wasn't really going for a performance motor though, so it doesn't bother me. I also had some flattops but was pessimistic about being able to run them without it pinging badly. Would be interested to find out how your piston/head combo goes.

[Mick280zx]

I'm quite off topic here guys and I apologise- when you're talking of rebuilding an L28 carb engine, are you using a different cylinder head casting to that used on the L28E? If so, where do you guys get extractors for L28 engines? I've got an L28E and can't seem to locate a set of extractors for it... or if they were ever made?

 

 

[C.A.R.]

There's a set of headers on eBay atm...

[Mick280zx]

Cheers Lurch- will they will suit a 280zx? I emailed them and they said they didn't make a set for the zx.

[Zedman240®]

I'm sure HM Headers make a set for the 280ZX; just have to call around or ring around some wreckers. I have seen them before, they do exist. Unless you have some $$$ and get some made up?

[Mick280zx]

Cheers zedman- I've emailed them to find out.