ben92 Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Hi Guys, Hoping someone smarter than me can help - I'm a little confused about the wiring for my fusible link situation and what I can do to replace it with something that should pass a blueslip check. I haven't had much luck with wiring diagrams, I have a 1975 260z and can't find any diagrams that match what I have (no shunt, volt gauge, 3 fusible links). Before I go tearing up my wiring harness I figured I'd check here. I did find this thread https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/15679-correct-amp-rating-for-1976-260z-fusible-links/ that explains the fuse ratings, which I used to figure that using MIDI fuses seems the most viable for me because they cover the same amp rating and I can easily find 3-position fuse holders online. So, I'm trying to work out if I can use this (which can be had for about $50): https://www.autoelec.com.au/waterproof-dustproof-triple-midi-fuse-holder-litte and if so what the wiring would look like. In my attached photo would wires 1, 2 & 3 just connect to the 3 ins, and the 4th wire connect to the opposite side with the single input? Or does the single input need a heavier gauge wire from the positive battery or starter or something else? Has anyone run something similar / better? Thanks in advance, really appreciate the help! Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krizza Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 G'day Ben, I am wondering if someone has had already had a go at your fusible links and changed them because what you have there doesn't make any sense to me. ie. how can you have 4 input wires and 3 fusible links? I have a 1975 260z 2+2 and I have attached pics of the wiring and my conversion to plug in fusible links. My car has the shunt and had an amp gauge, but I converted to volt meter as the amp gauge was broken. As you can see the 4 input wires on mine are battery (80A) and ignition (40A), so I am assuming your 4 input wires are the same. I hope this helps, Kris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linton Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 (edited) Same as mine Ben 76" i used a commodore fuse block 3 live and an earth makes perfect sense, if I remember right 40,60,and 80 amps Edited October 23, 2020 by Linton PB260Z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krizza Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Good to know Linton. I just looked through the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual and it looks like Nissan went to a different setup in the later cars that share a common battery + feed, so that is how they arrive at 3 circuits with 4 wires. Linton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oversteer Posted June 17, 2021 Share Posted June 17, 2021 (edited) I just got rid of the fuseable link mess and reg etc from my car, also fitted a subaru 85A Alt, I left the shunt in place and rewired it to have the alternator charge though it so the gauge in the dash will "work", was going to ditch the shunt, but I opened it up out of curiosity and liked the look of the design, looks beefy and protected only issue will be the plug and terminals handling the current, will see how it goes/if it melts ! Added a starter relay also. Edited June 17, 2021 by Oversteer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilltech Posted June 18, 2021 Share Posted June 18, 2021 Just curious that your '75 car has a volt gauge, I would have thought it should have an amps gauge. Unless a PO swapped it in from a much later car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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