Where To Start? Rust Repair

[nuk1ear]

240z which needs restoration. Most of the major rust is in the rear hatch area where water pools. Some small bubbling on door panel and rear quarters. My main concern being the complete rust of the small under-body support pieces which can be seen below. 

 

I'm a competent welder and metal worker, can do a good job. But wondering if best to let someone else restore this example back to original (rust repair and repaint). Was thinking to strip it down (engine/drive train all out, everything to a rolling shell) and have someone fix it but no idea how expensive it might end up being?

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GD3VZq1OLAaYGi1w1

 

The underbody shot is from this area here on the rail where the jack is lifting the car (not same car, just image for an example:

 

[gav240z]

It's hard to tell from the photos but it looks relatively minor compared to many out there. However hard to tell what sort of previous repairs are hiding under the paint. If you want to restore it to look 100% best thing to do would be to strip it down, to a bare shell and blast it to reveal extent of rust and then epoxy primer and start on weld repairs. I recommend chemical paint stripper for external panels (soft panels inc. roof) instead of abrasive and harsh media blasting.

 

Alternatively you may be able to patch it up and restore it as you drive it. If you're a good welder that's half the challenge really, the rails and floor can be dealt with by stripping out the seats and floor insulation etc.. and just dealing with it that way. You don't have to put it on a rotisserie etc..

 

I guess it depends on the time you have, space and budget. Once you strip it down it's hard to not justify restoring it properly and that's when it gets expensive. If you just want to be able to fix it up gradually and enjoy driving it (even if it's not perfect) I recommend patching things up and going that way.

[260DET]

There is a bloke on here who sells new improved rails, I'd do the structural repairs first but make sure that the body is well supported during the process. The bolt on stuff can then be done at any suitable time. Gav's advice as always is spot on.

[Groundhog]

Useful to set up a brace inside the shell before you tackle the rails and floors.
You can fit oversize rails over the existing ones but TBH if you are going to do that much work, why not put it back to original.
You can make your own rails or buy them ready made from the likes of this guy in Canada. Shipping is a bit less from Canada vs USA.

 

http://www.datsunzparts.com/

[lightmaster240z]

My feeling is to come to one of the event in the next couple of week and talk one on one to some of the guy to get a better understanding of what you need to do.

Bruce

[nuk1ear]

Thanks for the comments all. Does anyone know how much it would cost to have the whole thing chemically stripped and primed if supplied as a roller? Trying to toss up how much worst case I would need to budget. Would be nice to get this thing back to a good state. 

 

Worst rust I didnt picture because its quite clear, its in the rear slam hatch corner as most cars have. 5cm x 5cm area would need replacement and welded in.

[smugley]

I think you can bank on finding about 10 times more rust than you can now see once you have stripped off all the paint .

You have to remember that these things rust from the inside out !

 

I don't think you will find anyone who can accurately quote for rust repairs until they can properly asses the amount of work required and that would require a fully striped car .

 

Good Luck it's a very slippery slope once you start !

[nuk1ear]

haha yeh those were my thoughts also. I wasnt really thinking of the repair costs, more the stripping costs to be honest as I realise no one can quote repair until they get deep into it. 

[C.A.R.]

Strip it down to a bare shell, mount it on a rotisserie & have the shell media blasted.
It's the only guaranteed, 100% way of finding out what issues the body has.