New build - 9.71 240

Brabham · April 11, 2015

Firewall number is your chassis no. Aluminium plate is the Australian compliance plate. Engine Id plate should be on Lhs of engine bay but is not essential. Some us models got an extra vin on the dash, luckily we didn't as it looks ridiculous

Cheers

aircobra · April 11, 2015

so we never got this plate?

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m3NfKR6jsZ3vOJcJS97_tmg.jpg

what's the meaning of "mtaching numbers" then?

gav240z · April 11, 2015

Yes we got that plate,

Matching numbers is engine number matches that ID plate that is fixed to the body. The Japanese market didn't have the engine number stamped on those plates so it's a bit of a moot point for their market cars, for markets outside of Japan it seems to be considered more important for collectors.

aircobra · April 11, 2015

i dont have one on my car - where is it supposed to be?

gav240z · April 12, 2015

i dont have one on my car - where is it supposed to be?

On the strut towers in the engine bay. You could try contacting the previous owner, I believe another member had some fun trying to register his car with this missing ID plate. Have a read here.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14462.0.html

Does it have the original L24?

ID plate looks like this.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14462.msg153447.html#msg153447

aircobra · April 16, 2015

has anyone used any of the plating kits?

http://www.electroplatehomekit.com/zinc-kit-sizes.html

or the caswell one?

or this

http://janekits.com.au/product-category/electroplating-kits/zinc-plating-kits/

aircobra · April 22, 2015

ok, more progress, i have now worked that this is a ser 1 (pre 2400 #) and it had the wrong hatch

1. on my pitiful front radiator support. the worst thing is that you can't even make a pattern of the lower part

see this

thanks to lurch for some leads, i have hope , if not i'm going to have to rent one from someone so that i can make a copy

2. can't work out the story with the seat belt, look like there are 4 mounting point - one in the sill, two on the tunnel and in the roof area

i think the early ones came with non-retractable belts, so that

does anyone have a ser 1 with the original belts

there's a company that still sells the non-retractables, so wld like to know if i can use that

thanks

aircobra · April 22, 2015

this one looks good on the left side

but the right one is different - why?

is it supposed to be like this?

aircobra · May 2, 2015

drop off a whole pallet at ubalst in dandenong.

even the seat backs were rusty inside - how evil is that?

has anyone tried the VHT enamel epoxy spray cans for the suspension components

aircobra · May 5, 2015

took it to the iceman place ( thanks for the receommendation)

decided to have the heater recored (250), but i think i will just get a new rad from US with my bulk order

aircobra · June 8, 2015

ok, picked up the sanblasting and went over it with some epoxy enamel just to keep it covered till i setup the spray gun

all came out ok. altough some pitting on lots of the suspension components, which doesn;t come out till you spray the gloss back on.

Got it done at Ublast at Hallam for $500. Did a good job and I had a lot of parts - pretty much everything except the shell eg

Every single suspension component, heater, diff, tank, seats, pedal box, etc.

Barely filled in the CRV

Seen an MGB and Faclon Coupe shell in there.

aircobra · June 8, 2015

has someone hacked or is this what it looks like from factory?

the car was running 2 x trailer light as a license plate lights

i'm guessing the original was a 3 piece?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-73-DATSUN-240Z-TAIL-LIGHT-AND-LICENSE-PLATE-STEEL-TAIL-PANEL-METAL-PANELS-OEM-/221600774250?hash=item33986f786a&vxp=mtr

aircobra · July 25, 2015

ok, the latest progress is:

1. based on the info from the forum, decided not to get the plating kit dropped off half of the brackets at the platers ( Huntingdale)

2. u-joints pressed out of tail and half shafts

3. carbs off and the manifold bead balsted

4. flywheel machined( was rusty)

5. exhasut manifold sandbalsted

6. bought some H4 headlight off ebay ( plating's come off on old ones)

7. ordered parts from zcarparts and zcardepot. the aus dollar is lookign very tragic

aircobra · August 1, 2015

plating's come back and working on the braks

and the reco heads

https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/collections/72157654291340343/

aircobra · December 13, 2015

things have been moving a bit slowly.

what I have done

1. Finished putting the head together, its not ready to go onto the block. No real dramas, the head guy did a good job although I did manage to dent the oil spray bar a tiny bit. The block is not yet built and is sitting under some plastic at the moment, awaiting the crank and pistons

2. Finished the cards. A more stupendous effort I can't recall, involving multiple trips to the platers, hydrobalsters, spare carbs and a an envelope from ztherapy. Sufficient to say they look pretty much spanking new mounted on the manifold

https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/23692728306/in/datetaken/

aircobra · December 13, 2015

also received the zcardepot and some of the zcarparts - all look very good, although i haven't tried any of the rubber parts

as soon as i get the second box, plan to install all the suspension bushes and a couple of U-joints that needed doing

aircobra · April 8, 2017

major up date - i drove the car up and down the driveway couple of days back. so katokid beat me by 24 hours with a driveable chassis.

you would have seen my postings ( 400?) over the last couple of years, including the recent winners like the "what's wrong with my timing"

yet plenty of work remains

1. newly discovered wrapped manifold flange ( see my wanted ad). at the same time, i took it to my engine guy ( sircar) to see if he can skim it

2. still trouble with the electrics, although the new $10 china ebay relays are winners

3. hatch, doors, bonnet yet to be painted, although the shell is done

4. leaky clutch hose - will need a copper washer where the hose joins the slave

5, door mechanism assembly (see my wanted ad)

6. vynil, carpets

aircobra · April 8, 2017

just a recap since its been nearly 2 years since the purchase

the car is now totally stock, with the exception of the 280 5 speed and the radio, has a 0ks L24 ( block and head courtesy of lurch). and those period 280 mags

whoever was originally after this car, should have no regrets - the car was an absolute balls up in every single respect.

starting from rust, to butchered metalwork to cut up harnesses to neglected carbs. that includes 1 inch of rainwater INSIDE the car when it came off the towtruck and the fake plastic side window because the previous owner couldn;t be assed fixing the real one

i've done a few cars, but have never, never seen anything so bad