aircobra Posted March 14, 2015 Posted March 14, 2015 all, have read thru all the threads and have to these conclusions a. plastic media blasting looks best since does not rip the steel or leaves alkaline residue. since will be cutting out rust, this shd work out b. somebody sais that a special type of garnet (smaller?)also works, but I can't find specs on it eg the maker/type b. for local strips, will probably use diggers paint stripper from bunings with a plastic film, followed by a water blast and an immediate dry/prime can anyone recommend 1. a place that can do the whole car at a good rate 2. a cheap tow truck service. probelm is that with the z at 1ton and a car tralier at 700k takes me over the limit for my 98 crv Quote
aircobra Posted March 14, 2015 Author Posted March 14, 2015 A. Have come to a fresh conclusion that the places quoted in the threads the only items that i can get either here or us are 1. door skins 2, rear hatch panel 3. inner sills 4. dogleg 5. bit of fenders from zstore, tabco are rare spares that leads me to the conclusion that i'll be in for some fabrication around the hatch, wondow and gutter areas the forums tells me that lurch in warragul and rob in mentone are reliable and value guys and seem to have the english wheel and brake that you need to make these properly is that right? B. For small patches that I plan to do myself, where can I get small .7mm (everything) and 1.2 (floor pans) alucoat sheets. This looks like the standard Datsun skin gage, so don't want to go much thicker PS. If anyone is getting any of the above items from os, lets share shipping PS2. not sure if the thicknesses are right, does anyone know the actuals? Quote
reverendzed Posted March 14, 2015 Posted March 14, 2015 Welcome mate - Be good to know a bit more about you and your build, even some pics! Check with Lurch about gauge of steel etc. You can buy floor pans off the shelf. You will find guys on the forum very helpful when you take them on the journey of your build. http://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/ProductPage.aspx?product=RP0043 Cheers, Rev. P.S We have a BBQ meet up on the 22nd in Blackburn if you're keen. Quote
aircobra Posted March 14, 2015 Author Posted March 14, 2015 Just looking for A. Good panel beaters with pro equipment that people have used recently. B. Paint suppliers. I found BOdyshop in richmond and "auto and industry" in kilsyth. so far, i'm facing a $700 bill just for paint based on a bare metal. getting 4 litres of etch, base, acrylica and clear Quote
reverendzed Posted March 14, 2015 Posted March 14, 2015 Might be a great idea to start a build thread and collate all of your questions into one thread - gave may give better advice on this, but I think it would be easier to keep track of your questions and answers. Cheers Quote
aircobra Posted March 14, 2015 Author Posted March 14, 2015 Hi All, As per the suggestion, will just amalgamate all my queries here: The car will be delivered next week from interstate, all I have is photos and lots of questions as a gear up for a long climb to Everest. As a background, have done a ground up on a St162 Celica convertible ( still don't know why) and .. wait for it - a Fiat 126 Niki ( now I why not). Have owned a lot of diverse cars in the past, from the Datsun stable a Fairlday roadster and a 180b ( why would you). All I know about the car is that it has l28 and lots of rust. Thus all the questions about the bodywork. I can see that lots of the Z gear is shared with the 180b family eg the diff, the motor ( + 2 more jugs), the door handles, the struts) ,etc Lookout for phots when the car arrive - it will be scary as a Honda z360 on a California freeway Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted March 14, 2015 Administrators Posted March 14, 2015 Threads merged. Welcome. Quote
aircobra Posted March 16, 2015 Author Posted March 16, 2015 any answers for any of the questions, bros? Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted March 16, 2015 Administrators Posted March 16, 2015 all, have read thru all the threads and have to these conclusions a. plastic media blasting looks best since does not rip the steel or leaves alkaline residue. since will be cutting out rust, this shd work out b. somebody sais that a special type of garnet (smaller?)also works, but I can't find specs on it eg the maker/type b. for local strips, will probably use diggers paint stripper from bunings with a plastic film, followed by a water blast and an immediate dry/prime can anyone recommend 1. a place that can do the whole car at a good rate 2. a cheap tow truck service. probelm is that with the z at 1ton and a car tralier at 700k takes me over the limit for my 98 crv Call Rob at Z-Factory, he's restored many S30z's and can probably recommend a good blasters that won't destroy the car in the process.. A. Have come to a fresh conclusion that the places quoted in the threads the only items that i can get either here or us are 1. door skins 2, rear hatch panel 3. inner sills 4. dogleg 5. bit of fenders from zstore, tabco are rare spares that leads me to the conclusion that i'll be in for some fabrication around the hatch, wondow and gutter areas the forums tells me that lurch in warragul and rob in mentone are reliable and value guys and seem to have the english wheel and brake that you need to make these properly is that right? B. For small patches that I plan to do myself, where can I get small .7mm (everything) and 1.2 (floor pans) alucoat sheets. This looks like the standard Datsun skin gage, so don't want to go much thicker PS. If anyone is getting any of the above items from os, lets share shipping PS2. not sure if the thicknesses are right, does anyone know the actuals? Locky (a.k.a) Lurch, Mark (Scoota) or Rob at Zfactory are all good for rust repairs if they have the time capacity to take your project on. I'm using about 1mm thick mild steel in my tafe course, the rare spares door skin was considerably thicker than the stock skin. To be honest I'm not that fussed about those details, as the Z's were quite thin to begin with. The thinner the metal the harder it will be to weld also and open to more distortion. In terms of shipping patch panels, I've considered bringing some in, in bulk. Haven't investigated it fully yet as there is lots I can fabricate in my Tafe course. Just looking for A. Good panel beaters with pro equipment that people have used recently. B. Paint suppliers. I found BOdyshop in richmond and "auto and industry" in kilsyth. so far, i'm facing a $700 bill just for paint based on a bare metal. getting 4 litres of etch, base, acrylica and clear Can't help with this as I'm currently located in Sydney and most panel shops I've had experience with have been bad. Hi All, As per the suggestion, will just amalgamate all my queries here: The car will be delivered next week from interstate, all I have is photos and lots of questions as a gear up for a long climb to Everest. As a background, have done a ground up on a St162 Celica convertible ( still don't know why) and .. wait for it - a Fiat 126 Niki ( now I why not). Have owned a lot of diverse cars in the past, from the Datsun stable a Fairlday roadster and a 180b ( why would you). All I know about the car is that it has l28 and lots of rust. Thus all the questions about the bodywork. I can see that lots of the Z gear is shared with the 180b family eg the diff, the motor ( + 2 more jugs), the door handles, the struts) ,etc Lookout for phots when the car arrive - it will be scary as a Honda z360 on a California freeway Be prepared for more rust than you currently expect, some previous accident damage (possibly not major) and several botched repair jobs. It will be fun, if you can keep your sense of humour. PS: Go to the BBQ and ask questions there.... Quote
dat240z Posted March 16, 2015 Posted March 16, 2015 Bahahaha.... Half the fun aircobra, is the information and knowledge YOU learn when researching for a build. Almost all the answers youre seeking are easily found usin the search tab at the top right hand corner. Also, some advice when seeking info, is to properly introduce yourself and write clearly. The use of "bros", poor grammar and the like makes it adurous for members to assist... People here are great and very helpful, but you DO have to put in your own effort and time first.... Quote
Triptych Posted March 17, 2015 Posted March 17, 2015 The guys here are a wealth of knowledge and the most valuable resource the zed community has. In saying that though the same questions do get asked a lot and they have been answered time and time again which is why some might just ignore what you ask as they don't want to have to do your research for you. I recommend spending a few days just going through the technical sections on the forums (its what I did when I signed up before even owning a zed) to search for answers and if you can't find your answers even after doing a search then put forward a well thought out question with what you want to achieve as an end result and you will be on your way to not only getting the answers you require but also extending your knowledge to help others by the other information you obtained in your research. There is a lot of good guys down the Melbourne way and when my 2+2 is finished it will be making the trip to meet them. Quote
vramjee91 Posted March 17, 2015 Posted March 17, 2015 Mini tow truck driver 0419 566 771 - Ross I used this guy for all my towing - He was cheap and really chill. Quote
aircobra Posted April 3, 2015 Author Posted April 3, 2015 Today's update Have almost finished the stripping. thanks to lurch and rob for all the advice so far about to start taking out the supsension and put onto car stands, ready to rip the inner and outer sills Quote
aircobra Posted April 3, 2015 Author Posted April 3, 2015 what's supposed to be here loosk like ites been patched Quote
dat240z Posted April 3, 2015 Posted April 3, 2015 Wow!!! Good progress, but man, thats a lot of work!!!! Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted April 4, 2015 Administrators Posted April 4, 2015 So you bought this 1? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2630.msg165978.html#msg165978 I guess Triptych shouldn't be too disappointed he missed out on it LOL... Hope you got the stomach for the resto on this 1. Not that most S30z's are much better mind you at this point. Quote
Triptych Posted April 4, 2015 Posted April 4, 2015 Gav still dissappointed over it but it's good to see it on here and he is making some progress. Quote
aircobra Posted April 4, 2015 Author Posted April 4, 2015 it looks like the air intake for the heater. has anyone taken this part and knows what's supposed to be on the top from factory? looks like someone just cut a piece from roofing iron Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted April 5, 2015 Administrators Posted April 5, 2015 Hey mate, pretty sure that is standard piece. I can take a photo of mine to compare but I haven't undone the spot welds about yet. Pretty sure heater intake looks like that though. Quote
aircobra Posted April 9, 2015 Author Posted April 9, 2015 i have picked up some 260 bits and have trawled the next ( and most of this forum) looking for the differences and these are my myths in addition to the what is already out there eg points abouts, trims, seats, bumpers, engine i'm mostly interested in body/suspension only the question concerns aussie spec '77 260, which i think comprises some bits from US 280, but with an L26 ( not sure on that one) so, get your hot chocolate and ready to go 1. the door hinge holes on the A pillar base are round, whereas on 240 (71), they are oval (for adjustment). otherwise identical (true/false) 2. the tunnel is much wider, but the base porfile at the firewall and tunnel joins (about 30 cm from the tool boxes) are identical 3. seat belt mounts are different locations ( i'm not sure cause my car came with drivers belt diffetent to passenger) and some suspect looking fittings. pretty sure that there's mount in the inner sill. ithink that 71 was the year before retractable belts 4. the pattern for the stamping on the boot floor are different 5. different fuel filler pipe ( rubber vs metal) 6. one more hole in the boot pipe for some vent pipe on the 260 7. different mount for rear bumper, but that's just the bracket on the end of the channel 8. higher rear shock tower with additional reinforcing at top and on the innder panel on th 260 , but the inner wheel arch identical 9. diff door latch ( on body) 10. different size/profile/slope to the door jamb (i've eyballed and can't see any difference), so it seems to me that if you swap the latch, you can physically put a 260 door ion a 240, even if the door frame and internals are different) that's all for now, i can post for any specifics ... like i sadi, one for the guns Quote
aircobra Posted April 9, 2015 Author Posted April 9, 2015 one more ( more of a captain obvious) diff floorpans and seat mounts, but joined to the inner sill and front/back identically Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted April 10, 2015 Administrators Posted April 10, 2015 To read between the lines, a 77 spec AU 260z will not help you as a parts / donor car for a 240z. Unless you want the front panels (windscreen forward) and the roof turret and possibly rear 1/4 panels. Quote
aircobra Posted April 10, 2015 Author Posted April 10, 2015 that's pretty much the parts i'm thinking of grabbing to replace the rusted out, beyond repair sections, just wanted to check with the pros thank you 74zzz 1 Quote
aircobra Posted April 10, 2015 Author Posted April 10, 2015 according to this site. there should be a couple of numbers on the car http://www.xenons30.com/VIN.html and a couple of searchanble registries http://www.editgrid.com/user/mlwilliams/Z_Car_Registry http://www.zhome.com/ Z Car register, members cars. What is your VIN? but they don;t seem to work all i have is the firewall # and aluminum compliance plate on the front right shock tower didn't know where to post this question Quote
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