phillay Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 g`day everyone. warning long post. My car's been developing a miss/stalling (possibly fuel related) problem lately, I noticed it one in a blue moon when I drive but all my drives been quite short ~30 mins. SOmething I did notice but thought meh maybe it's old and carby etc. Today driving on the freeway (nice day) car started to lose power, was cruising about 50 mph in 5th so I down shifted to 4th, 3rd etc to keep the revs up as soon as I clutched in car stalls, so I moved to the side and thought f this is going to be annoying it's sunday. Popped the bonnet and had a look, nothing out of the ordinary. waited a few minutes called a few mates to see who is around, I don't have a fuel gauge but had filled about 50 litres 30km ago so it's probably not an empty tank. Tried starting the car and it runs after 20 secs of cranking. all good get off the freeway at altona exit and start to head home. car felt nothing until I got to about 1km from home, same problem loss of power but this time I can pull over to the small side streets. Waited another minute and started cranking start idles and revs in neutral like usual so moved off and 500m later loss of power. again did the same thing but now the thing stalls and takes a lot longer to start, eventually she got me home and it idles all good when it's park at home. Pain in the ass. So... what could be wrong? When I had the carbs rebuilt, I had changed the fuel filter it was filled with rusty brown bits, the fuel filter was only 6 months old, during that 6 months I've probably managed to drive about 15km, the last few weeks I've done about 30-40km, I haven't had the change to check the filter, I only just got home but I have a feeling it might be the filter again. It's one of those ryco white plastic ones, I can see the fuels a bit yellow in through the plastic. I know there is water and rust in the tank, I had it drained 3 weeks ago and the fuel was yellow like pee. I plan to take the tank out, change the fuel sender (gauge never works) change the seals and get the tank coated in this tank painting/cleaning kit. I want to also look at changing the fuel like it might be old and rusted (not sure?) so my questions are: Would a rusty/clogged filter cause problems as described above? Should I change the solid fuel lines? or are there other ways to fix or ensure the lines are ok, physically from looking at them when the car is on the hoist they look ok. if I should change the lines anyways, what should I buy? I did a few searches and people mentioned bundy lines? what size / length do I need to buy? are there special tools required? should I get an electric fuel pump while I'm at it and get rid of the vacuum fuel pump? thanks for reading. edit, car is a 240z with an L24 su carbs stock. I am looking at moving to an L28 triple 40mm set up in the next 3 months Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoota G Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Without doubt it is a fuel supply issue. Mecanical or electric pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldmates260z Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Sounds like you may have a somewhat endless source of rust that is coming from your fuel tank. This needs to be cleaned out completely. For there to be rust there must have been water in there at some stage. How could this have occurred ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PB260Z Posted August 31, 2014 Moderators Share Posted August 31, 2014 so my questions are: Would a rusty/clogged filter cause problems as described above? In short - Almost definately. You will need to drop the tank, get all the crap out, then treat with something like POR. Cjheers PB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillay Posted August 31, 2014 Author Share Posted August 31, 2014 Mechanical pump at the moment guys, a brand new one too. I do have an endless amount of rust. I might get cracking then. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillay Posted August 31, 2014 Author Share Posted August 31, 2014 Sounds like you may have a somewhat endless source of rust that is coming from your fuel tank. This needs to be cleaned out completely. For there to be rust there must have been water in there at some stage. How could this have occurred ? Car was parked outside for about 10 years before I got it, was just sitting under a car port and not running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted August 31, 2014 Moderators Share Posted August 31, 2014 I had a similar problem on the freeway or after sustained high rpm's; car would lose power then after backing off, would sort of go back to normal. Found out it was the float levels were way down. Carbies were running out of fuel and fuel pump could'nt keep up. Check your first before removing fuel tank as its easier compared to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 I've already checked them for him, Dimitri - they were within specs. With all the crap that'll be in the tank, the fuel filter will be blocked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillay Posted August 31, 2014 Author Share Posted August 31, 2014 thanks guys, I will post a pic of the filter once I remove it tomorrow, do you think the hard lines needs to be cleaned or replaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PB260Z Posted September 1, 2014 Moderators Share Posted September 1, 2014 Gidday Here are my thoughts I would - Replace all the rubber lines and clamps. - Use compressed air to blow out the hard lines, then flush them. - New filter - Put it all back together - Throw 10lts in her and go for a drive - Drain the tank - Replace the filter again - Refill - Happy days. After that you may want to check the fuel bowls for crap. Then after a few drives check the filter again. Look forward to hearing how it works out. Cheers PB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted September 1, 2014 Moderators Share Posted September 1, 2014 I've already checked them for him, Dimitri - they were within specs. With all the crap that'll be in the tank, the fuel filter will be blocked. Oh, in that case don't worry about that! Have you checked the fuel pump diaphragm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillay Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 heres a picture of the filter, this is about 4 weeks old I've only driven 40km at most since it was replaced. I'll do a few things on the list of stuff PB has listed, the carbs were recently cleaned out it's pristine now. the fuel pump is new as well. The tank was recently drained when I replaced the first fuel filter, it was filled with brown stuff. I am going to drop the tank and have to treated with this box I got at home that I've bought a while ago. The downside was that it takes about 10 days to set and cure, which is fine, going to order a few things like senders as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PB260Z Posted September 1, 2014 Moderators Share Posted September 1, 2014 Yep, the filter looks cactus. but at least it is doing its job and protecting your pump and carbies from all the crap. If you get bored chop the top off the dirty filter with a hacksaw and have a look. The good news is once the tank is properly cleaned out and treated it will alst for years without giving you any dramas. what are you using to treat the tank ? Cheers PB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillay Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 I got this from the shops a while ago http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product/auto-fuel-tank-sealer-kit/ my fuel gauge doesn't work and I was thinking I should buy a new sender for it and rewire it just to be sure as I don't want to take out the fuel tank again. how often does the fuel float sender unit fail on zeds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PB260Z Posted September 2, 2014 Moderators Share Posted September 2, 2014 have you tested the sender unit. While the tank is out, take the opportunity to clean the sender unit then test it with a multi meter. In all likelyhood all the rust and crap will be preventing it from completing the circut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HKSZ Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Which filter is this? You replaced both right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillay Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Hi Steve No I haven't tested it, just assumed that it's old and while I was at it I should replace given that it's not too expensive, but I might just give it a test, when I drop the tank. I googled around that the fuel sender requires some sort of earthing or if the tank strap is part of the earth, I can't remember sorry. I should look at the haynes manual. I didn't know there was another one, this is the filter next to where the inspection light would be, driver side of the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HKSZ Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 On the 260z they ran two filters, the one in the engine bay and one directly after the fuel tank and before the electric (behind RHR wheel) If you don't have the second filter I'd fit one, I have two clear supercheap filters and the last one still gets crap even after passing the 1st filter and fuel pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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