Painting a car these days

[HKSZ]

Its been 15 years since I last painted a car, while it was had work the result has been bloody rewarding.

 

I know acrylic, its safe and forgiving. My 260z used 2 coats of flat base, 5 coats metallic colour, 7 coats of clear I had heaters and fans setup in my garage. That's a lot of time on the gun but got it done in one day.

 

Everyone now tells me I have to paint in 2 pac, 2 coats colour, 2 coats clear. More chances of runs and a harder finish but the biggest problem have to hire a spray booth, or even get someone else to paint it for me as the paint can be hazardous

 

I'm starting the process once again on the 240z and wanted to get peoples opinons on what type of paint to use.

 

I'm doing all the body work myself which will take months, paint is icing on the cake

 

[C.A.R.]

If you are painting at home, I'd advise not using 2-pac.

Acrylic is fine if you are prepared to put in the work.

[Linton]

I did mine in the shed never painted before and used 2 pak, sure its not perfect but I am very happy with it, don't worry about to much about runs in the clear I had one from one end to the other ( and several others) thanks to the fellas here and their guidance all my worries were ill founded.  I just rubbed the runs back with 1200 until gone and cut and polished, you would never know. it gave me great satisfaction doing the whole car myself.

give it a go 

[Sirpent]

No offence to anyone here when I say this, but, Why the hell would you want to paint a car in 2K at home period?

 

Most on here saw the Ford Probe I used to run around in done in a Pearl Red color, it used to be green. I did all the body work for that car at home, smashed front and drivers 1/4 and high filled the entire car.

 

The only 2K paint work I did was to edge up all the swinging panels and jams so as all that needed doing was the final outer panels.

 

HKSZ, 2K is the superior finish on many levels, and 95% of a great finish is in the prepwork, I would suggest that if you want to go 2K think about gping down the route I just described and then as I did have the car trayed to a good shop with oven and have them apply the final outer coats within an oven environment, why would you risk screwing up all the final outer paintwork prep?

 

As I said, please dont take offense.

 

Cheers

 

John

 

 

[Wayne G]

Been mulling this over myself.  Space not an issue, dieing from cyanide is.  What about the new water born paints?  Anyone used those? At home?

[HKSZ]

Yeah the isocyanides is a worrie, it looks more dangerous to paint the car than race it.

[Roberto]

I am no expert, but have been reflecting on this of late.

 

Don't spray regular 2k topcoat at home without a booth.  Use ISO free 2k topcoat at home if you like, but it's not as durable as regular 2k.

 

As far as 2k primers, I have used Spray Chief 2k primer which is an epoxy primer, needs no etch primer and works as high fill too to paint the zed 15 years ago. We were very happy with it.  The owner of Spray Chief at the time was a family friend and he said it was ok to use without a booth, but he advised us that there 2k topcoats and clears were poisonous and to avoid without a booth.

 

If you have a good 2k base, a quality acrylic is ok but durability will be the biggest issue. Not a big deal if you have a garaged weekender. If you want extra durability use ISO free 2k topcoat at home or rent a booth and use regular 2k.

 

I am still deciding what to do.  I want to paint the zed with doors, fenders and hatch off the car which makes it a bit of a PITA to get to a booth.

 

Either way with a good 2k base, even if you go acrylic you minimise shrinkage and stone chips to the metal and the extra work of using etch primer, spray putty and then re prime before topcoat.

 

No one should use single PAC acrylic primer anymore!

 

 

[1600dave]

First up, I'll ignore the safety issues - not discount them, but that is a personal decision that needs to be made after reading all the health warnings (and there are plenty).

 

So, there's nothing wrong with acrylic. To be honest, I prefer the look of a well-done acrylic paint job on an older car.

 

As you say, it is much more forgiving to apply, more forgiving to rectify if something goes wrong either when painting it or down the track, just a nice, easy paint to use. If you're used to it and feel comfortable with it, then give the 2K a miss. I guess the use of the car needs to be considered a little - will it be parked outside and driven every day over gravel roads? Or is it a weekend driver, lovingly tucked away in the shed the rest of the time ? 2K will give a little extra chip / scratch resistance.

 

I've use acrylic on at least 20 cars over the years, all done at home, including an MGB GT that got a place at the national MG concourse (I like to think my paintwork got it over the line, although I'm sure the rest of the car was OK as well  ). Only time I've used 2K was on a few engine bays (to avoid cutting back and for a little extra "toughness" for those annoying re-assembly mishaps) and on bike parts.

 

 

[HKSZ]

Well I've got the oppertunity to paint the engine bay in a booth this week.

If I 2k this much what precautions do I need to take, I've have a Sunstrom mask uvex goggles.

 

I know it's not just avoid inhalation but contact too.

 

[neRok]

You need a special mask/cartridge to filter the problem iso' chemicals in the 2pack. Ultimately, a mask fed fresh air is the go. I would presume a proper booth would have this setup and let you use their equipment. A normal sundstrom mask does not filter these ISO's.

 

Ive heard ISO-free arent as good as regular 2pack. Ive heard 2pack primer is the way to go, even ISO-free is better than acrylic. You can get a product from AutoOne, its the Hi-Chem 2pack ISO-Free Primer Isolator, which can also be high built. So, it pretty much does everything, you can spray acrylic colour over it, and is safe for doing at home with a regular filtered mask.

 

If you decide to paint 2pack at home, I also hear that 2pack takes a long time to dry, so overspray will land on your surroundings - dry - and stick. Whereas acrylic dries quickly and often whilst it is airborn, so you just get coloured dust everywhere.

 

The first car I painted was a Hilux with acrylic, and got 1 run on the corner of the door where the window frame joins. If you spray lots of thin coats, you wont get runs. So in the OP when you said 'Ive been told to do 2 colour coats', I wouldnt think about that way. I would get the right amount of colour to cover the surface area you need, and spray it thin and gradual until it is all gone. It might take 3 coats, it might take 6, just go with it. I told the paint shop it was a single cab hilux, they gave me so many litres, and it took 4 coats.

[HKSZ]

Thanks for the tips

I reached a happy medium, I painted the colour base which has no hardener, got the painter to spray the 2k clear.

 

Those fresh air mask/hoods are over $1500, which is a big outlay for one car