Matt Posted May 21, 2013 Posted May 21, 2013 Hey guys, another boring build thread. Thought i'd at least add to the forum, give's me a nice place to add questions too. Picked up a 12th month 76 260z 2seater maybe a month ago, seemed mostly rust free after a good inspection. I wanted the later model personally since being the second series of the generation they usually have most problems under control. I'd also feel less guilty modifying it as i know purists love their originality. So after 20 hours of ownership, car was up on stands as it needed steering sorted. Ripped out the stereo that took up the boot and rust treated inside the car with Poris and a cavity wax. i don't want to do panel/rust repairs for a couple of years yet, so this seemed like the best solution to hold anything back for a while. After a couple of weeks parts started to arrive and its starting to look the way i want it, still waiting on some koni inserts which got shipped today. once they arrive its time to fit the suspension/rims/flares in one hit, wasn't really happy with how it rode when i first got it. focusing mostly in this area first, engine/power mods most likely very last. Crap phone pics as my camera broke , mostly coving the highlights Quote
MaygZ Posted May 21, 2013 Posted May 21, 2013 Looks great mate. I wish I had started with one as good as yours. Quote
Matt Posted May 21, 2013 Author Posted May 21, 2013 In 12 years its the first car i haven't bought from a scrap yard or damaged vehicle auction, got tired of sourcing parts and repairing everything. Kinda figured for something this old its better to spend the cash on a good and mostly complete car, a clean shell is always the biggest battle. Better starting point and alot less work in the long run, compared to what i've had to do previously the money spent is well worth the time saved. Quote
Matt Posted June 29, 2013 Author Posted June 29, 2013 coming together a lil more, cut the rust free wheel arches :'( fitted the flares and rims got the koni/gc setup in and running well added t3 rear arms drives really well now, actually feels like driving a car and not a boat. waiting on a rear spoiler then i can paint the flares and spoilers together. Quote
Matt Posted November 3, 2013 Author Posted November 3, 2013 update post, enjoying the build and emptying my wallet slowly. triples on and running, few mallory items and tidied up a few things. a long way to go still r32 calipers with r33 rotors and jap adapters and offset rca's. should be interesting, currently sectioning the struts as i only had 2" of bump travel. still only drive the car about twice a month as i'm always wanting to change something that doesn't feel quite right, should be driving it more after this lot as most major issues have been sorted now. Quote
MaygZ Posted November 3, 2013 Posted November 3, 2013 Once you've connected the brake lines it should pull up a ripper! Quote
Grandad Posted November 3, 2013 Posted November 3, 2013 Hi Matt Good to see you're making progress it seams to be coming along well, I look forward to seeing it in the flesh maybe at the track or a Perth Zed day. Just looking at the top bush on your sway bar it looks like you've got an end cap mounted against the sway bar if it's not permanently fixed to the bar it probably shouldn't be there, might be worth checking. Here's a pic of ours. I look forward to meeting you. Cheers Dad Quote
Matt Posted November 4, 2013 Author Posted November 4, 2013 hmmm image appears blown up in size for some reason brake lines off as i was considering replacing with braided line, just going to remake the hardline tho. i'll worry about braided stuff at a later date. would also help if the caliper had pistons in it too, picking up the seal kit tomorrow so it can go back together. as for the swaybar cap, pretty sure its just a centering cup. swaybars seem fine for current use, so its last on the list of things to attend to. really want to get it out for some motoring events, just the car needed so much maintenance to get it back to scratch that its taking a while. then i had the crazy idea of buying/fitting the triple carbs that slowed things down a bit, it'll get there. Quote
Riceburner Posted November 4, 2013 Posted November 4, 2013 Noice Like the color combo and GT stripes. as for the swaybar cap, pretty sure its just a centering cup. swaybars seem fine for current use, so its last on the list of things to attend to. I've had the centring washers on my front/rear bars since I've owned it (10yrs) with no problems. What are the details on this R32 brake setup, looks to be a very simple and powerful upgrade! Plenty of readily available spares and multiple performance pad options too. EDIT: Geez that SK inlet manifold is a nice bit of kit! Quote
Matt Posted November 5, 2013 Author Posted November 5, 2013 just finished putting the calipers back together with the new seals. caliper bracket is from yahoo jp auctions, pretty much r32 gtst (type m) calipers/pads with r33 gtst rotors redrilled. found out tonight that you have to use inner pads on the outside as the low pad warning strip interferes with a bolt. offset rca's also add more clearance from lca to rotor, seemed to be an issue with lack of clearance with a few bbk. by the time its all done a willwood kit is cheaper, i just wanted a factory setup with readily available parts and less maintenance. red brakes are + 25kw's aye?, ol girl needs all she can get Quote
d3c0y Posted November 5, 2013 Posted November 5, 2013 Wilwoods aren't street legal either from what I have read. Quote
luvemfast Posted November 5, 2013 Posted November 5, 2013 Wilwoods aren't street legal either from what I have read. Think thats mainly due to lack of dust seals isn't it? Quote
dat240z Posted November 6, 2013 Posted November 6, 2013 Willwoods are designed not to need the dust seals. I run them all round and its been legally registered and engineered for a year or two now. Besides, I dont think the RTA guys would even notice... Quote
Matt Posted November 8, 2013 Author Posted November 8, 2013 ahhh, i feel like a tard :-\ somewhere lost in translation i missed reading that late s30's use honda odyssey rotors due to lower offset. my half assed trial fit showed its gonna fit loosely attached, go to bolt it all together to find i cant tighten the hub bolt in far enough as the rotor is on the struts caliper ears. so much for going for a drive this weekend :'( knew i should of just gone for willwoods, collecting paper weights is becoming quite the hobby. Quote
Matt Posted November 10, 2013 Author Posted November 10, 2013 is it possible to swap on 240z hubs to late 260z struts? anyone got some 240z spare hubs in perth ? this seems like the easiest option. that would make up for the difference in rotor offset and save modifying another set of rotors. or another option to remove the offset difference from the hub making the 260z hub the same thickness as a 240z. :-\ Quote
Retro Z Posted November 10, 2013 Posted November 10, 2013 Yes can be done. Swaps straight over. I did the same on my 240 when doing a hilux caliper conversion to gain the extra offset needed to clear the brakes. 240z have the scalloped and thinner hub and the 260z the round type i think. Quote
Matt Posted November 10, 2013 Author Posted November 10, 2013 cheers for clarifying that they fit, now i just need to find some local. will leave machining down 260z hubs as a last resort if i dont go for other rotors. Quote
Matt Posted November 11, 2013 Author Posted November 11, 2013 went to see Martin from Tuneright for a pair of hubs, damn z's everywhere and a top bloke to deal with. now starting the list of things i dont really need but want anyway the brake setup fits this time, just waiting on another bearing set to put them on Quote
Riceburner Posted November 11, 2013 Posted November 11, 2013 IIRC the 240z hubs are a thinner by 9mm. Glad to see its all come together, I went throught the same issue with the hilux upgrade, but needed the 260 hubs for clearance.. Quote
Matt Posted November 17, 2013 Author Posted November 17, 2013 all on with the 240z hubs, everything working well for the most part. been fiddling with the carbs again so its not really a driver atm, running on the rich side. problem to sort is the wheels touch the front fender/spoiler with certain steering angle since adding the offset rca's, have to remove more material under the flares. should be back on road mid week if it all goes well, have to get tools i loaned out back to finish carb settings for now. few pics Quote
Matt Posted January 12, 2014 Author Posted January 12, 2014 forever fiddling with this thing, but thats what i enjoy just need some cooler weather so i can drive it some more, the cars really starting to be enjoyable now. started my selection of OER/SK jets off installed innovate wideband that confirmed i did a pretty good job jetting it by ear now the love/hate relationship between polishing this cover is my current task Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted January 12, 2014 Administrators Posted January 12, 2014 I have that same valve cover and love hate relationship. I want to powder coat mine and offset it against polished carbs . Quote
Riceburner Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 I had the same issue with the offset rca, all I did was shave the back edge off the air dam. I only needed about 10mm Quote
Matt Posted January 26, 2014 Author Posted January 26, 2014 some hours later trying to get in early on a Barbagallo come and try day mid next month, the car is pretty much sorted for normal road use so i think its time to get it out there. quite happy with how the cars turning out so far, its come along way from how it drove at the start. now to start getting some seat time and enjoy it for what it is. Quote
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