Matt

newbies to this can just show up on the day? i have to stop lurking and come out into the scene....

mint way to get into z ownership, authentic build, expecting updates!

ill take any excuse to browse yahoo.jp http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e153024791 so thats for r32 4pot(280rotor) to r33 297 rotor, which will use 240z hubs. if my memorys right caliper sizing are; this r32 caliper is the same as r33 non-turbo, r32 gtr is same as r33 gtst, and then there is the brembo R package which are all the same castings are all different tho

i used the caliper brackets on yahoo auction japan fits r32 gtst calipers with r33 gtst rotors(bored and redrilled) on to 240z hubs for 260z hubs use honda odyssey rotors(bored, drilled and turned down in size) i also ran the offset rca for rotor clearance to the lca, all from the same seller. then t3 released them for half the price.... honestly wilwoods would of been better for the $ spent. hope thumbnail works...

been playing with the z when i can find time for it. finally got the carbs running nice after dropping the main venturi size from 36 to 34, huge drive-ability difference for around town. picked up a genuine bride bucket seat, just fits but its not sitting much lower. will have to get another set of rails to make a lower bracket, kinda just knocked the bracket up quickly to see where its at. also grabbed a set of cusco strut bars, fits well but not with my manifold. the bar sits too low and presses the carb linkage down on number two, may try ordering some shorter linkage arms and see if they'll clear. unsure how much shorter arms would effect throttle travel. modify modifications to fit, always the way. just grateful people are still making parts...

im running old 45dcoe SK's , learnt alot rebuilding and tuning myself. i do like the external float and accel pump stroke adjustments, really helped setting things up. they do use their own sk/oer jets tho, but you can order new ones setup for weber jets. parts are quite easy as you can just order from here - http://lupinusflower.ocnk.net/ hassle free and usually around the week mark to the door, prices are reasonably close to weber parts. it did take a wideband o2 and about $600 worth of jets to get where i'm at, but i wanted to do it myself. ol pic

picked up a reground cam local, got it all in and just checking wipe pattern. not running off the pad, but its definitely not centered. worth while measuring up lash pad replacements or is this considered useable ? black marker lines taken from 1 intake and 1 exhaust on first pot with stock lash adjustment

did a come and try day at barbagallo this morning, entered into sprints and motorkhana. the car did better than expecting at sprints but it seems the car is quite a bit faster than me, really need more experience but i believe i did well for my first time. only thing i could really complain about was engine response above 5k, just seemed flat and slow but reading good on the wideband. motorkhana was another story, the carbs just drowned the engine in fuel and it died by the end of the run. a fair bit a cranking needed to try and clear the fuel to get off the finish spot, it really spoiled that event for me. also got to ride shotgun in an instructors r32 gtr doing a sprint, i found that to be quite an experience that shows how fast you can really go. all in all it was a good morning out, got to have some fun and returned home with the car straight and in 1 piece.

some hours later trying to get in early on a Barbagallo come and try day mid next month, the car is pretty much sorted for normal road use so i think its time to get it out there. quite happy with how the cars turning out so far, its come along way from how it drove at the start. now to start getting some seat time and enjoy it for what it is.

forever fiddling with this thing, but thats what i enjoy just need some cooler weather so i can drive it some more, the cars really starting to be enjoyable now. started my selection of OER/SK jets off installed innovate wideband that confirmed i did a pretty good job jetting it by ear now the love/hate relationship between polishing this cover is my current task

all on with the 240z hubs, everything working well for the most part. been fiddling with the carbs again so its not really a driver atm, running on the rich side. problem to sort is the wheels touch the front fender/spoiler with certain steering angle since adding the offset rca's, have to remove more material under the flares. should be back on road mid week if it all goes well, have to get tools i loaned out back to finish carb settings for now. few pics

went to see Martin from Tuneright for a pair of hubs, damn z's everywhere and a top bloke to deal with. now starting the list of things i dont really need but want anyway the brake setup fits this time, just waiting on another bearing set to put them on

cheers for clarifying that they fit, now i just need to find some local. will leave machining down 260z hubs as a last resort if i dont go for other rotors.

is it possible to swap on 240z hubs to late 260z struts? anyone got some 240z spare hubs in perth ? this seems like the easiest option. that would make up for the difference in rotor offset and save modifying another set of rotors. or another option to remove the offset difference from the hub making the 260z hub the same thickness as a 240z. :-\

ahhh, i feel like a tard :-\ somewhere lost in translation i missed reading that late s30's use honda odyssey rotors due to lower offset. my half assed trial fit showed its gonna fit loosely attached, go to bolt it all together to find i cant tighten the hub bolt in far enough as the rotor is on the struts caliper ears. so much for going for a drive this weekend :'( knew i should of just gone for willwoods, collecting paper weights is becoming quite the hobby.

just finished putting the calipers back together with the new seals. caliper bracket is from yahoo jp auctions, pretty much r32 gtst (type m) calipers/pads with r33 gtst rotors redrilled. found out tonight that you have to use inner pads on the outside as the low pad warning strip interferes with a bolt. offset rca's also add more clearance from lca to rotor, seemed to be an issue with lack of clearance with a few bbk. by the time its all done a willwood kit is cheaper, i just wanted a factory setup with readily available parts and less maintenance. red brakes are + 25kw's aye?, ol girl needs all she can get

hmmm image appears blown up in size for some reason brake lines off as i was considering replacing with braided line, just going to remake the hardline tho. i'll worry about braided stuff at a later date. would also help if the caliper had pistons in it too, picking up the seal kit tomorrow so it can go back together. as for the swaybar cap, pretty sure its just a centering cup. swaybars seem fine for current use, so its last on the list of things to attend to. really want to get it out for some motoring events, just the car needed so much maintenance to get it back to scratch that its taking a while. then i had the crazy idea of buying/fitting the triple carbs that slowed things down a bit, it'll get there.

update post, enjoying the build and emptying my wallet slowly. triples on and running, few mallory items and tidied up a few things. a long way to go still r32 calipers with r33 rotors and jap adapters and offset rca's. should be interesting, currently sectioning the struts as i only had 2" of bump travel. still only drive the car about twice a month as i'm always wanting to change something that doesn't feel quite right, should be driving it more after this lot as most major issues have been sorted now.

mail order triplet's

coming together a lil more, cut the rust free wheel arches :'( fitted the flares and rims got the koni/gc setup in and running well added t3 rear arms drives really well now, actually feels like driving a car and not a boat. waiting on a rear spoiler then i can paint the flares and spoilers together.

In 12 years its the first car i haven't bought from a scrap yard or damaged vehicle auction, got tired of sourcing parts and repairing everything. Kinda figured for something this old its better to spend the cash on a good and mostly complete car, a clean shell is always the biggest battle. Better starting point and alot less work in the long run, compared to what i've had to do previously the money spent is well worth the time saved.

Hey guys, another boring build thread. Thought i'd at least add to the forum, give's me a nice place to add questions too. Picked up a 12th month 76 260z 2seater maybe a month ago, seemed mostly rust free after a good inspection. I wanted the later model personally since being the second series of the generation they usually have most problems under control. I'd also feel less guilty modifying it as i know purists love their originality. So after 20 hours of ownership, car was up on stands as it needed steering sorted. Ripped out the stereo that took up the boot and rust treated inside the car with Poris and a cavity wax. i don't want to do panel/rust repairs for a couple of years yet, so this seemed like the best solution to hold anything back for a while. After a couple of weeks parts started to arrive and its starting to look the way i want it, still waiting on some koni inserts which got shipped today. once they arrive its time to fit the suspension/rims/flares in one hit, wasn't really happy with how it rode when i first got it. focusing mostly in this area first, engine/power mods most likely very last. Crap phone pics as my camera broke , mostly coving the highlights

well after a few more hours of forum flicking it seems you can use 240 inserts in the larger housings, just pack it tightly and add some oil. guess i'll have specifics when i attempt it, just wing it got 1 thing in the mail today too decent quality and fit front lip, just makes it perfect

lol, been going thru alot of forums digging up info and pricing parts up. got a fair bit of stuff in the post, surely more to come. will be interested in a few odd bits for the car too, love wreckers and their treasure troves. trying to find koni's to suit the later 76 struts, they have a larger OD but ID is only like a mm wider. looking for clarity on the swap, so i can try and do the whole swap in a day. maybe a little longer finding the right spot for coilover perch. been going over it so much i can remember the part numbers.. so if i was to order 4x Koni 8610-1437 and 4x gland nuts (73.25.01.007.1) section front and rear strut tubes ~2inch space the rear the rest on the length drill out the stock top hat to suit the 5/8 shaft would this work? or would i need to sleeve/replace the strut tube for a firmer fit? or replace the upper mounts with a different item? Please say it'll work perfect... Cheers

cheers for the welcome, will start my slow build thread eventually. car's been up on stands a couple of weeks now trying to sort the steering rack, parts proving difficult. once its driving again i'll take some snaps as everyone has seen a Z in progress. later, Matt