Hi All, New NSW Member

[cks]

Hi All,

 

Just a little bit about myself, i have always been into cars and enjoyed many different makes a short list would be as follows

Datsun 180b SSS

Datsun 1600

toyota ae86

VR4 Galant

EVO 3

Porsche boxster S

currently restoring an old 1972 911 as well

 

i am currently in the process of looking to replace the boxster...... and i am missing the good old cars so i was thinking of a AE86 sprinter again but i have been there and done that (this time was looking at putting a 3sge beams engine into one) But i have always been a fan of the 240z and 260z so now is the time to take the plunge and go for a 240z. I believe cars should be driven and enjoyed so no garage queens. So i do intend the 240z (or 260) to be my daily drive, and used every so often for track days. I also enjoy doing the spanner work myself, i see it as a form or therapy

 

I look forward to meeting and making a few friends in my 240z journey, so thanks in advance for all your wisdom and sorry if i ask any silly questions.

[d3c0y]

I love my 240Z but i dont think 40 year old cars are good daily drivers. Sure you can do it but for it takes away the special feeling of taking it for a drive on the weekend and i miss all them mod cons too much. But each to their own, goodluck!

 

 

I am really interested in how a 'warm' 240Z goes in comparison to the 911 and AE86 though.

[chris240]

Welcome to the zed house...

Hurry up and finish the 911 and we can swap my 240 for the 72-911.......its a newer car so youll be in front 

[luvemfast]

Welcome 

But I agree with Jake about old cars as daily drivers. A few years ago I had a VG Pacer hardtop as a daily and it took the enjoyment out of it. When I was on holidays, not driving to work and back. I'd just go for a nice drive in it and THAT gave me soooooo much more!

[cks]

I may also keep the boxster and just buy a 240z love the styling.

 

The AE86 with a 3sge beams would be in the 5 second range of 0 - 100, but i would also update the suspension, brakes, diff and gearbox etc as i believe in looking at the project as a whole. I love cars that go and handle.......not just go hard in a straight line.

 

I am interested........to see how a warmed up 240z goes as well....with a few upgrades brakes, suspension, diff and some engine work open to some suggestions here maybe 2.8 motor how hard can they go  ?

 

cheers

 

clayton

 

 

[luvemfast]

I am interested........to see how a warmed up 240z goes as well....with a few upgrades brakes, suspension, diff and some engine work open to some suggestions here maybe 2.8 motor how hard can they go  ?

What's your budget? They can go GREAT!!!!!!

Contact Peter Mac on this forum. 

2.8 about 250hp

2.9 about 300hp

Stroker............ 350+

[cks]

Thanks Luvemfast,

 

I will ping Peter a pm.........looking for some good advice as it been a long time since i have been around datsuns.

 

 

[cks]

Also can guys in the know help me with the main rust areas on the 240z and 260z.........as keen to ensure that I have these areas checked etc As i am aware with cars of this age rust may tend to be and issue

[PB260Z]

Clayton

 

Welcome to Auszcar, great to have another Sydney based member.

 

Rust - anywhere that is metal  , seriously though, check the doors, hatch, bonnet, floors, sills, rails, doglegs, radiator support..... you get the idea.

assume every car has rust, unless the seller has photo evidence of quality removal work.

Looking at a few of the build threads will give you an idea of what can be hiding under the surface of what looks like good car.

 

Cheers

 

PB

 

[cks]

Thanks PB,

 

Yeah it is good to see someone else is in Sydney, from your signature your in Hornsby, which is not to far away from me. Once i have invested and purchased my new ride we will have to organise a drive day etc.

 

Thanks for the advice, will keep it in mind, I think a good Pre-purchase Inspection is key for cars of this age so once i have a car i am interested in. I will need to see who is in the area who is good and checking for all the rust issues etc.

 

 

 

[Hamiton]

Hey guys, I'm new here & also from NSW.

 

Just on the topic of rust there, i've got some decent rusting on the radiator support myself & was wondering how much of an issue is it? It's not corroded & all that bad, but i've took a lot more notice of it recently & any point of view about it would be nice cheers.

[cks]

Hi All,

 

This might be slightly in the wrong section, but been doing a fair bit of research and i came across silvermine brake kits, now what are they like compared to the Willwood brake kits. Obviously their is a $$$ difference and maybe a rear handbrake issue but is there any preferences and what are the reasons.

 

Sorry in advance if this has been covered in another thread, i am still getting use to the searching tools etc

[Agno]

The Silvermine brake kit is essentially Hilux/4runner front calipers with 280ZX rear disk brakes. Both sets of items can be sourced locally very cheaply and make for a simple upgrade. Take a look at these:

 

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,3498.0.html

 

and

 

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9487.0.html

 

The Hilux front brakes are a 100% bolt on affair over stock rotors if you get the 4 piston calipers with the S12+8 casting stamp on them. IIRC the Silvermine kit and that tutorial use bigger calipers from a later model Hilux.

[Roberto]

http://www.silverminemotors.com/Stage-4-Rear-Big-Brake-Kit-Stage-4-Rear-Big-Brake-Kit.htm

 

The silvermine stage 4 rear kit is supposed to be great.  If you can cope with a Ford part on your car, you get a massive rear disk setup with the handbrake working.  I think the wilwoods are still without the easy handbrake option.

[cks]

cool thanks for you help,

 

I dont mind having a ford part on my car if it helps me stop faster...........are there any other options out there brakes wise ? Or as these cars are relatively light these brakes will handle pretty well. Remember aiming to have a reasonable quick car 0 - 100 in the 5 sec range and run 70/30%, 70% street and 30% track days. Once time and the $$$ allow me too.

[cks]

mmm so open to opinions on this if people had the choice of buying a pretty stock 71, 240z vs a 75, 260z with a 2.8 already in it with the original engine included in the purchase. what would be the decision ? As i am thinking of upgrading the engine to a 2.8l anyway, as well as upgrading the brakes, suspension etc. Given the aim of the project is to put in a 2.8 engine down the track, ok admittedly it would be not standard aiming for 250 - 300hp. It would seem to me to be a wiser choice to pick the 260 over the 240. Forgive my ignorance but as far as some very minor styling ques and a 2.6 engine i can't seem to see any major differences when comparing the 2 models in standard form. Would it only be "street cred" of having a 240z as the original over 260z later model ?

[Hamiton]

lol yeah pretty much street cred, don't know of any major worthwhile differences between the two myself.

[CroS13]

As far as i am aware, the main differences are the weight, the 260z is slightly heavier, a 240z is pretty much bang on 1 tonne dry weight, if i recall the 260 is about 100kg heavier.

 

It is stiffer, as the chassis rails extend further back. The tail lights are different, in a 240z they are integrated into the light assembly, in a 260 they are separate. Of course the engine is bigger, even though it made less power due to emission regulations at the time. And i think it has a rear sway bar added, don't think the 240z had them.

 

To be honest, and this is MY opinion only, i would go for the car that has the least amount of rust. Because i don't have the skills to do rust repairs i would have to pay to get it all done. Im sure it is inevitable that they will both have rust in some places, and im sure to some its no drama. It depends on how mechanically minded you are. I had the same issue. When i bought mine, there were 2 cars i was interested in. 1 had alot of rust in it, but everything else was done, it had L28, triples, coilovers, the works. the other was stock and no rust. I chose the stocker, because i can do all the mechanical work myself, and wont have to pay for it, i would have had to pay to get the body work fixed on the other one.

[cks]

Thanks CroS13,

 

That is good advice, I will take this on board as i do understand RUST is a major issue with cars of this age and rectifying rust can be a very costly and time consuming issue. I am still leaning towards a 240 as i don't mind doing the spanner work when and where i can, and it also part of getting to know these cars. As well as some self therapy in this digital age.

 

 

[Agno]

If I had my time again, I would have looked harder for a 240Z. Not to say I'm disappointed with what I have but I think there is just something different about them compared to a 260Z 2 seater

[dat240z]

Get a 240z if you can. It is the original and should be your goal. Every other Z built after a 240z, was built in homage to the 240z. Hell even the 350z/370z took styling cues from the 240.

I dont know which company uses the slogan, "the original, but still the best" but in my opinion it sums up a 240z.  My opinion anyway.

 

 

[cks]

yeah i agree...........had a bit of time to think about it i am going to hang out for a 240z, thanks for advice.

 

And so the fun/search continues

[cks]

so just thinking obviously there are RHD and LHD cars......and being over the 30 yr mark  no need to convert to RHD if I get a LHD.

Is there any price difference for us here in OZ or much of a muchness ?

[Agno]

LHD is obviously cheaper, but at the same time if you were to ever sell it you will be selling for a lower price and it will most likely be much harder to sell

[cks]

ok,

 

So who do you recommend to use as for a pre-purchase inspection ? need them to be based in Sydney. Please feel free to list their names / businesses and reason for or against.

 

How much do they usually charge ? guess the main issues i am looking out for is rust, don't mind the minor mechanical issues as i will be replacing these in due course.