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15x8 0 offset on the rear with 225/50. I am running coilovers with rolled guards but no rubbing at all.

Yep... did cross my mind it could feel like asking how long. But..for whatever plans someone had, if they really regretted not doing something, or nearly didn't do something and are so glad they did... they would be very aware. They mights just not end up being relevant for my plans. Which are still evolving.But they essentially involve: L26 engine Tripple Webbers 5 speed manual box (don't know what options exist) Subaru A/C system Possibly a body kit (flares, side skirts, air dam, haven't seen a spoiler I like yet.) Possible after market front suspension to eliminate rumour of bump steer Thanks very much for the link, info on the fuse box. They sound good. I'm planning to assemble the entire electrical system by itself, as much as possible, on the garage floor, all switches, gauges, lights, electrical components, and verify it works. I definitely have a few rat chewed wires. Insulation must taste nice.

That's a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question, as it depends on what you are planning to do... '73 onwards wiring looms have more wires and the plugs are colour coded and not available new. Unless it's been butchered, it's can be reused. FWIW the last '73 I did, we unwrapped the loom, inspected it, fixed any issues, then re-pinned the terminals and re-taped it. I do recommend fitting a new modern fuse box though: https://www.thezstore.com/product/4750/msa-fuse-box-short-pigtail-72-73-240z as the originals are almost always damaged in some way. If you are modifying it in any significant way, I would suggest you 'dry build' it before paint to avoid damaging fresh paint.

So, just starting out with the restoration of our newly purchased RS30. And, while I have some plans for what we’re going to do, I’m curious to learn from others, in particular I’m wondering what mods or restoration steps that in hindsight you wished you done, but didn’t. Maybe like, using new wiring looms than dealing with an old and potentially unreliable and possibly damaged loom, that once is installed isn’t so easy to take out and replace. Or, maybe there are a few specific things you did do, and are very glad you did. Just trying to avoid the same mistakes, or repeat the same good ideas!! Cheers, Richard

Hi Mate - it was just the largest format Outside Decal UV Stabilized commonly used for real-estate boards - that you order through for Office Works. It up to you supply the graphic - just have a chat to office works about the resolution requirements to get a sharp image. Cheers AK

Well. Stopped thinking about buying a Zed and actually did. You might recognise this from the classifieds, it is Linton’s second car he was in the process of working on, after the orange 2+2 he splendidly restored. AKA known as “the Ratson” because it previously came with free rats. 🐀🐀🐀🐀 RS30-00981 260Z 2 seater It will take a while, and be very much one step at a time. We’re competent with mechanical things, can get by on electrical bits and pieces, but welding, body work, sheet metal fabrication, and spray painting we will be learning as we go! Plan is an L26, manual, with some upgrades such as triple webbers, disc brake rear end, and maybe a Subaru A/C system. Yellow, with perhaps a body kit. So after lurking around here for a while now, we’re no longer an imposter because we actually own a Z car! Our second Datsun after the 1600. Cheers, Richard

Not sure on this specific wheel, but the OEM wheels are 14", and I have heard/seen others running 15x8 0 and myself, 16x8 0 with standard brakes. maybe the spokes might be an issue with the wheel? btw, you might get a better response from the Aus or US facebook pages. not a lot of activity on this forum any more

It's #778, easy enough to find VINs with Vic cars if you can see the rego. "An Australian export model which was imported to Papua New Guinea and spent the first 40 years of life in a high country village." Pretty sure it last sold in 2021 too.

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1971-datsun-240z-manual/SSE-AD-20627007/ Looks like a good buy. Would also be handy to know the VIN for the database. Seller lists it as a May 1971 so should be <1200.

So I'm looking at a set of Rota Shakotan 15x8 0 offset, but the Rota seller said he feels that the Shakotan rims might have issues clearing factory brake calipers, but he isn't sure...... does anyone here have a set of these wheels and can clarify whether they fit or if they had to purchase smaller sized calipers to make it work?

did they clear standard brake calipers?

Welcome. https://www.efihardware.com/ in Melbourne are the people to speak too. They'll be able to put together a package for you. Bare in mind it won't be cheap. At least $6k+ IMHO if you want reliability & economy on a budget, I'd fit a new Scorcher (Bosch) distributor from Performance Ignition and a set of 38mm Hitachi cabs on the factory twin carburetor manifold. I can put you in touch with someone in Vic to can help you out with this.

i have a filthy under bonnet and was wondering what options there were rather than painting...how can i source something like this for mine?

are you running the 225 on the rear with a 15x8 and what is your suspension set up? Any issues? any pics?

I've got 225/50/15 toyo proxes on mine, I got them maybe 10 years ago and there were still quite a few manufacturers of this size nowadays there's virtually nothing unless I go a semi slick like a bridgestone re71 or yokohama ao52

Hi twosixtyzed I was wondering how you were getting on with this; thanks for providing the update. Its good to hear that you got there in the end. If it feels a bit spongy there might be a little bit of air in there still but it sounds like you are going to take it to a shop for them to have a look at. Did you bleed the new master?? No problems with the help...thats what this place is all about!

Hi i have a 260z 75 model and was always wondering if the interior colour it came with was an original option as I haven't seen any others like it before? Roof lining/interior panels all the same burgundy but the grey passenger door was a home job attempt to likely repair a ripped original burgundy trim..... thoughts?

Well, I finally got there a few weeks ago. I found it hard, I spent hours and hours, fitting refitting, remaking flares endlessly trying to get it right. My principle was "Done is better than perfect". First the flares, I bought three different tools until I got one that made consistently clean ones. This one was absolutely amazing to use, so satisfying to use that lever!....but only realised I'd missed the "bubble" in double bubble title, what a numpty. This one was awful or I was awful at using it The best one was this which was recommended on a lot of forums, making perfect flares is a skill (I do not have) but the tool removes pretty much all the guess work. Bending the lines drove me absolutely fcuking crazy, it took me way too long, too many tolerances to maintain in a tight space, I....disliked...this part. I did the bleeding with this tool which was alright, there's better more expensive ways, or if I had a lift a quick bottle and a hose way but I only had two stands and a jack so going around each point was kind of annoying. I pressure tested my lines with this before I installed each one so I know before I got it in that they were right. I've had her going up and down the street, the pedel is spongier than before, but the wheels lock up without it going right to the floor. But I don't trust them until I've had a pro look at them which is in its future. Next plan, it's off to Fulcrum Suspension for new Whiteline bushings as I do not have the time or tools for that job, 50% off install seemed good.... Special thanks to Joe, RichyRich and Enzo - I appreciate your time and help, thank you so much!

Hi all! I have been looking at tyre options for my 15x8 0 offset wheels, stock shocks with 1.5" lowered springs and have decided to go 205 55 15 for the front and 225 50 15 for the rear. For the life of me I cant find the one manufacturer who makes both sizes and I would hate to run two difference brand tyres to achieve the desired look. Has anyone looking into these sizes before or have any advise against going with these sizes? Cheers ps- anyone running this set up or 205 55 15 in particular please drop some pics

Seems the Kia door seals are back : https://kia.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/kia-door-weather-strip-k01858760b

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/895800226103235/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post Might be worth finding out the chassis number for the database

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-147/ HS30 99 The seller is Jon Newlyn who also owns MBP72J which was one of the first (if not the first) car in the UK, the VIN slips my mind at the moment.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-147/ HS30 99

One for our South Australian members.

I would love to know peoples thoughts on running old school Centrelines on these cars. I have always been a fan of the 70's muscle looking wheels and not sure if its just so outdated to do these days or if its considered cool. I wouldn't want to roll around getting laughed at albeit thinking im "cool" Having said that, I need to move my factory wheels on so I can afford something new. Shit thing is I just restored/powdercoated these last year and paid $780 for the work as the black parts are painted and rest is powder coated and was a bit tricky to do ..... rear set is 215 and fronts are 195, brand new tyres. Which i also spent $700 on!! Car has been sitting on them in my garage as its still just a rolling project. What can I sell them for and is anyone interested? Sth east Melbourne pick up.