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As above What to use for the hinges can't find any repros No idea what they look like Photos appreciated Thanks Nick

Thanks Don't need to fit locks/seals just set gap door/rear 1/4 and work from there?

Hi twosixtyzed Looks like you are making progress. Sometimes there are casualties so dont worry about it. Im suprised by how tight they must have been as I assumed they would have been removed recently in order to recondition the booster. Your options sound good and your choice depends on how much "fun" you want to have and how much you have had already. There is still plenty of "fun" left in this job. If it were me I would remove the line and have a replacement made. There might be a mobile guy that can come to your place to make the new line. Be careful and make sure they use the same size flare nuts; there is nothing worse than having to use two different sized spanners to do the same job ie remove the lines. I was told a while back by my friend in SA who made his own lines that the correct size can be hard to find, but that was a while back. Dont get down on it. Trying = experience. Keep us posted.

Update: Master cylinder removed. Those flange nuts were stuck tight as. My inexperience led me to go too far with the 10mm flange spanner, I was going slow but I tried too many times and stripped them, I was annoyed at myself. I got PB Blaster and then some heat to them, then used a vice grip and eventually got them undone. But I feel like I wrecked the nuts unfortunately. Seems to me my options are (but definitely happy to be corrected): A) Struggle and get the other end (proportioning valve end) off and take it to my mechanic to make equivalent lines B) File the nuts flat. But feels unsatisfactory, will be hard to get them on-off in the future, looks fugly. C) Buy the double flaring tool and steel line (or cunifer?) materials, try and do it myself, I reviewed a load of youtube vids on double flaring, seems a bit of skills is needed

Tyres – I had some pretty good Michelin Pilot Sport 4s 225/ ZR 17 and the rear ended up being 235/ ZR 17, I would rate as one of the best tyres I have used on public roads, great feel right to the edge of traction and predictable beyond the edge of traction, reliable no punctures, wore evenly, back went before the front – understandable. Track day at Warick did bring out some problems, track is so much different, did not feel too comfortable on the edge here going much faster, front end was snaky under hard braking and the front tyres centres started to carve out that’s after 3 laps. Never had Yokohama’s before, Japanese car, Japanese Tyres cant go to far wrong, AD009 Cut Semi Slicks pretty much, its early days don’t know about the wear yet, but 1st proper road test, Great I was hoping for a 20% improvement and overall I would say: · all-round grip is 15-20% better · stability under brakes 30% better · grip under hard braking 30% better · stability while cornering through large g-outs 30% better · high speed edge grip 10% better · hooking up out of corners 20% better · aesthetic better · steering is a whole new level 30% better What’s Fitted · Yokohama Advan Neova AD09 Front 225/45R17 94W · Yokohama Advan Neova AD09 Rear 235/45R17 94W This is all subjective seat of the pants feel, but feel is important and initial impressions, new tyres do always feel better and steering always feels improved with new tyres, trying to factor that into to the impressions above. If you spend the time and look at reviews and testing across the globe, it builds picture of what the tyres perform like in very extreme track testing going much faster than I ever will, early days, they seem to be the pick of the bunch. It would be good to personally test everything, but that’s expensive and time consuming, I sure there is some other very good alternatives, But can only talk about what I have and compare it to past rubber.

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1970-datsun-240z-manual/SSE-AD-20455455/ VIN#610

No problems, Im happy to help out. Pull as much of the old fluid out of the master with a syringe before you take is off. Have plenty of old towels ready just in case. When you get it back you will more than likely have to "bench bleed" the master; search youtube as this is our modern day friend. Keep us posted.

Joe you're amazing, I am definitely reading your updates! I am buying a flare nut spanner (10-12mm) at the weekend as I didn't even know about it until you said, my plan was to report back once I've either duffed it up or completed it successfully. I've also bought a vacuum hand pump kit so I can bleed the brakes (never done it, always wanted to know how). I am so...pumped...to start this work!

Sorry for my dribs and drabs posts on this one. If you dont have a flare nut spanner already get the best quality one that you are able to budget for as the cheaper ones tend to open up a little as you are using them. If you need to know the size please let me know I dont know it off the top of my head anymore as I havent "spannered" for a while but Im happy to check my toolbox over the weekend if you need the correct size.

We aim for a 5mm panel gap.

Make sure you get the correct size flare nut spanner / line spanner so you dont do any damage to the flare nuts. Start soaking them in penetrating oil now to make loosening them easier, even though they would have been loosened to reco the booster.

Refitting the panels prior to painting. Fitted doors and have a </>5mm gap to rear quarters and to sill and swage lines line up (should I fit rubbers and door hardware?) Do I just work my way round the car and try to achieve an even gap?? I guess all panels have to be bolted up What kind of gap should there be between scuttle panel and wings also between inspection flaps and wings Also how to correct a slight taper to front of bonnet/wing one side only Advice /pictures welcomed Nick

Thanks guys it has been really valuable having more eyes on this as I was thinking it was a bad recondition of the booster, you've steered me in a better direction. The MC was untouched that's correct (how did you guess, barely a blemish on it!). My mechanic's text yesterday was "Need master rebuilt. Any chance you can pull it off?" - bit cheeky given he "Fixed" the brakes but anyway, I can't drive it to him in this state so it makes sense I have a crack. So it looks like you're on the money. I will look at this positively, use it as an opportunity to learn. I found a replacement Tokico MC for a 260z with bore size 22.22mm which I think is what I need, I'll keep the old one and restore it once I get better at all this. I'll tackle this once the part arrives.

You mention that the brake booster was reconditioned. The leak is from the master cylinder and from the looks of it, it wasn't reconditioned. (Correct me if I am wrong). Replace the master cylinder. David.

Sounds like it wasnt put back together too well. Was it honed or sleeved? Was a new rubber seal kit installed? It will be the rear rubber seal inside the master around the pushrod that is leaking. Master needs to come back off to fix it. Hope this helps. Please keep us updated as to your progress. <Edit> The seal/s in question are not around the pushrod; I wasnt thinking straight when I typed the reply. The seal around the pushrod at the rear is a dust boot, the seals that would be leaking are inside the bore of the master cylinder.

Given you paid to have it restored (which I assume was the bore only because the outside looks unrestored), I’d take it back, tell them what’s happened, and see what they say. Worst case, they don’t accept any responsibility, and you either have to pay them again / more, take it somewhere else, or do it yourself. But, at least it gives a chance they might fix it under some sort of warranty, or provide some explanation that might help decide the way forward. It would cost nothing to take back to see what they say…so nothing to loose, really.

I had my brake booster professionally (i.e. not me) removed, reconditioned, reinstalled in February 2026. The car's sat in my garage since driving it 5mins back from the shop. I noticed it's leaked about 1/2 the fluid since then and taken the paint with it. The master cylinder rear seal seems to be leaking at the master cylinder-to-booster mounting flange? The nuts are all tight. It's not leaking from anywhere other than where the blue arrow and red arrow are. I can't get a better read on it than that, it's an awkward spot. My skill level is basic but willing to give things a try. I could drain the fluid, undo the two master cylinder nuts from the facing plate. Then the two nuts on the booster then....what? Is it a gasket that wasn't seated right? I am inclined to go back to the mechanic and politely ask if he can take a look, but at the same time, it's my car, I gotta take responsibility and put some effort in but I don't want to c0ck it up and make it worse. You know, a novice coming in thinking he knows more than he does. I don't want to be that guy.

wheelers Hill

Which SE Melb suburb?

I have sent you a message? What SE suburb are you in?

Thank you but Moe too far for me. Just need someone to come to my garage in Melb and do bits n pieces in their own time for some cash really.....any hobbyists out there can surely provide some help. Ya'd think lol

Give them a little while, they posted a while ago, but the posts remained in the approval bin for a week or so. I didn't see them immediately.

2-seater or 2+2? If you want to bring it down to Moe 3825, we can finish it off for you.

Is there anyone keen to help finish off my build? just needs interior put back together and console switches etc.... Melbourne sth east.