Merlin240z

An option could be this if price is not an issue https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1585620893

Yeah all seals were replaced and the master and slave cylinders were all washed with metheylated spirits and cleaned thoroughly. You can just wash all the rubber seals with meths if you want but I just replaced the whole lot to be sure. It does not matter if you get the fluid on the paint coz you just wipe it off . I get mine from http://sparesandrepairs.co.nz/. Before I had the 240z I had a Fraser clubman NZ kit car. The guy I bought it off introduced me to silicone fluid and so I have used it ever since. I sold the Fraser and bought the 240 and then did a full ground up resto over 4 yrs

I have been using the silicone fluid for 17 years. I have NEVER had brake problems. I also use it in my clutch and it has "gooped" once in the time I have been using it. The normal stuff is a water absorbing, corrosion inducing paint stripper. I can leave the car over winter in NZ (My 240z has not seen a wet road for 17yrs) and the brakes have not seized and no signs of trouble.

The same set up as Marks car. That thing goes like a land borne missile and sounds even better from the outside of the car. It was a works triumph from UK and he just kept developing it over the years. Yep I agree they don't belong in Zeds. and L series ,S20 or the O.S Giken is the only motor that should be in them. Check out this

Don't be too harsh with the rover V8 Check out this guy over here in NZ One of the best pedalers I have seen https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAuTNa9U9Zc. The car has done Targa Tasmania and lots of Targa NZ and never fails to finish

And I thought New Zealand bureaucrats were morons. I'm so happy I don't live in Oz. Does ABF stand for Australian Bureaucratic F*&Kwits?

I used a company called R3 Fabrications They have a Facebook page and have just completed a FJ40 landcruiser and it went to the UK. They have also just finished a $300,000 full resto on a Buick Roadmaster which is a piece of auto porn. The guy that runs the shop did the bulk of work on my car and I would never use any one else. Some muppet crashed into me a few years ago and the insurance company told me to take it to their repairer and that the repair was covered with a life time warranty for workmanship. I politely declined their offer and told them a life time warranty is not worth the paper it is written on in my experience and did not know the standard of their work.

If you want to keep the car for a very long time, do it right but don't expect to get any change in you pocket from $40-50K. If you are going to use the car and then sell it in a few years then by all means go the cheap route and save money. Don't think using a mig welder on panel steel is a good job (it is like using a flame thrower to light a candle) the only way to go is TIG or gas welding. You will get what you pay for. In the long run quality does not cost - it pays. I spent NZ $40k on my panel and paint 15 yrs ago. I stripped it to a bare shell and then some. I had it soda blasted EVERYWHERE!!, I had panels hand made (repros were crap) I replaced the bottom of the doors and my front 1/4 panels with stainless so they will never rust again. and the list went on. All hammer file and finished I.E no bog/filler, 2 pack Spies and Hecker paint. Real panel beaters are a dying trade these days most of the new guys are panel replacers and glorified plasterers. My 240z looks as good today as it did 15yrs ago when it was finished after 3 years in the panel shop. When you choose the painter have a look at some of his previous work and ask other Zed guys for advice on who to use. If your budget allows, use a classic car restoration shop as they have the expertise, tooling, knowledge and know who are the good painters. Prep is 95% of the work and the gun is 5%. There is no fast, good and cheap option. All the best

Great example, super original (shame about the sunroof thou), tidy and well worth the $50k I would buy this if I had the space to hide it from the misses. I think 2 would be over the top in her eyes. Hope it goes to someone that does not mess with it.

Look on the bright side - At least a zed was not written off but such a hassle all the same. Good to hear no one was seriously hurt and most cars are replaceable.

I have Dellorto DHLAs 40mm on an l28 240z I went from an L24 and did not need to change the jets. I got them tune by a Hemi specialist in NZ. They run perfectly with no cold starting issues or other problems. The later DHLAs were a lot harder to tune. 40s seem great on a quick road car but 44-48s are for racing. One of the top zed racers I know went from a 50mm weber to a 44 solex on his race car L30 engine and picked up 70 more ponies at the wheels so don't be sucked in by bigger is better. Fuel economy seems to be quite good too but maybe it is because the jets did not get changed. Very noticeable more torque over the L24 as well but that also could be to do with cam, head work, CR etc Hitachi SUs can be surprisingly good for a quick road set up if tuned right.

May be you could try turning the crank so some of the pistons are @ bdc and both valves are closed. Take out the spark plug, fill the cylinder with a liquid eg water and then installing the spark plug, turn the crank again and use the hydraulic force to push the head up. If water does not work you could try filling the cylinder with rope.

Not for me but each to there own I suppose. Just be grateful he did not butcher a Z like that