DreamZproject

Hey minestrone! (Love the username! ) I don't mean to shamelessly try and flog my wares, but this will definitely be cheaper and easier for yourself. I currently have a 76 2+2 bare shell that has been blasted, primed, and nearly 100% rust repaired, I'm only looking for 1.5k for it, and when I recently got my 2 seater stripped, including a tow truck it cost me 1.3k, then I was given a quote for 10k on the rust repair! :/ After that you could sell yours off for panels and get even more value out of it. just a thought, sorry if I seem too pushy! http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13677.0.html

One day Z's will get there, better stock up now boys.

I didn't realise that the 300zx brakes could be fitted... I'll look into more about getting wilwoods engineered. Ok I'll hold off on these for a bit, it seems as though I need a bit more information... Thanks guys.

Hmmm once again great info, my concern with Wilwoods is the engineering problem (I know some people have got them passed, and others not). So I guess I'm after a different caliper so i can use the vented s13 rotors, how do identify the vented/ non vented calipers? What sort of weight gain are we talking about here? I highly value the feeling of nice brakes (like in my MR2) and I have heard from many knowledgeable people on this forum that they are a good conversion. (I'd also be keen to do a rear disk swap and I've heard that this is a good balance for this). More thoughts?

Hey guys, the Hilux brake conversion seems like a bloody good idea to me and i think it will be one of the things that I do to the car before it's all up and running. I like to gather my parts nice and early because it means less waiting around later, and often yields better value. Gav posted this link up on the ebay sales page and I was just wondering, could there possibly be anything fundamentally wrong with these calipers? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Hilux-4runner-brake-upgrade-solid-rotor-calipers-S18-2-240z-260z-rover-/121295333903?clk_rvr_id=612008954525 I realise that they will need a rebuild, but do calipers themselves ever wear out to the point where you just have to buy new ones, or are they pretty hardy normally and just need an occasional rebuild? From the sound of it these seem to be a good deal...

Ohhhhhhhh you mean seat rails.... Ok they're yours Gav.

Hey what's the point of being a website founder if you can't make posts mysteriously disappear Yellow, no info on the rails???

You item poacher Gav!

What's the deal with the rails? Are they a new replacement part or are they off a car? When you say they are off a 260, do you mean that they are the long ones? Pics would be great. Thanks bud.

Wow, Kato, $700 is a pretty good price! I had been told that it would be much closer to the 2k region so I had rules it out until i read this thread. Well I've said my bit, I'll be keeping an eye on here just on the off chance that someone figures out something amazing.

Exactly my thinking. Surely there has to be a rack out there that requires very minimal modification that just hasn't been discovered yet. I'm still keen to find out if the MR2 rack is indeed the rack that this guy in the US used, and if not, which one?

I don't see why it should cost that much using the mr2 setup... For sure, if it started to hit the 1k mark i'd definitely go for the electric power steering option, seems like a very elegant solution.

Would this nearly revolutionise the power steering vs stock debate? I know that there'd be a ton of guys running wheels to fill out flares that would be desperate for this. Found this comment on our own forum posted by Katokid; "I had read that someone had used an MR2 rack (second generation SW20 model) and did find one and thought it was a chance as the inner tie rod pivot to pivot distance was exactly the same as the Z rack...but fitment would be a problem as the piston inlets and outlets were in the wrong location, if you could move these the MR2 rack would be a good alternative." Not sure what he is talking about, perhaps some people can enlighten? What sort of extra modification would be required to get one of these racks to fit up? (obviously new pneumatic lines) It makes sense that they'd run an addition electric motor to power the steering unit rather than run it off the engine (would be a bloody long belt going from the rear of the car to the front!) I guess this would be quite beneficial to us as it should be more flexible in its fitment. Oh one last bit of excitement. seeing as though the pump is driven by an electric motor.... put a switch in the cabin! Want to go sporty? flick it off, want to park? On it goes! I have also heard that it is possible to adjust the pressure in these so you can have the amount of power steering you desire. Man i love adjustability!

That is a very good point! Ok i have the next stage of information i need. Thanks again everyone! till next my knowledge fails me!

Lol, I'd get under my MR2, but seeing as though i have the '95 bathurst edition there is no power steering It's funny i did consider that it may be an MR2 rack but i thought that would be too simple...

Those Mira's are pretty small... Could it be fitted in the boot of my MR2? it's surprisingly spacious in there considering it shares its domain with an engine!

What a jerk! I hate it when people do this. What does someone have to gain by not sharing their knowledge (I understand in racing there is a decent reason). Sounds interesting, looks as though it is a much simpler conversion than others that have been used.

LOL I live in Heidelberg! I'm half tempted, but quite busy at the moment, just the other weekend i made a trip down to the peninsula to pick up a couple of 240 bumpers! Crazy small world. I'll see if the missus is interested because obviously we'd need to have another car for the way back. #WHOOPS! missed the gearbox fcuked up bit. Bad luck.#

Hmmm, i thought there would be more to this metal selection than i thought. (That makes no sense!) Ok, well ill take that under consideration and see what other people think as well.

Hey guys, I've had a bit of a search around and can't find .9 I'm wondering if it's because I'm after the wrong metal, some guy told me that cold rolled is the way to go, but i can only find it in .8 or 1.0 (I know they would do, just wanna check cold rolled is the right stuff).

Eh I'd prefer for someone who needs it to take it, I wouldn't have a use for it for a couple of years...

Jeepers thats tempting, wish I was closer to that stage of my build...

Yeah i thought that might be the case... Typical dad, tries to help but ends up buying 2.1m x 1m of the wrong metal :/ It's a bit of a struggle atm, he is constantly wanting to jump in and start doing things and I have to shut it down and say plain out no, because I really don't think we have all the information yet and i think it should be approached in a different way. I'm going to be potentially spending 10k on a paintjob, I don't want to find out that we made a rookie mistake by missing out something small and stupid. Eh, anyway rant over. Thanks for the info guys, I'm sure I'll have a few more as i go.

Ok, i thought my questions were done... never... What width should the metal sheet that i use to replace rusted sections? Dad went ahead and bought 1.2mm but i have a feeling that may be a little too thick and could cause problems. Any thoughts? Also, what do you guys use to prep the metal (ready for etch primer) when it has the grease on it from the factory (sheet metal) just degreaser?

lol, thanks resident humanoid... I'm assuming that it wouldn't take much to strip them, is one of those "scotchbrite wheel" thingo's the best thing for it (the blue worm looking disk that's semi soft?).