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wildy55

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Everything posted by wildy55

  1. I've one on my 240Z. Paid $180 delivered. Good product tho had to drill new mounting holes on one side to mate up with the rad. They were about 5-8mm out. No problems with standard clutch fan and have made the car run noticeably cooler.
  2. Hey Been trawling the 'Bay and found these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280775061241?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1931wt_1067 LED headlight bulbs. You can get them to the equivalent of 100w, but being LED they'll demand less power. I reckon that means you can have the brightness without the power draw, hence not needing to add the relays. But I may be wrong... Anyone like to pump/deflate my tyres on this?
  3. Indicators - $50 for the pair
  4. Yup, it's from a 240Z.
  5. Not exactly sure but as a rough guess less than $40. I'd only charge what it costs.
  6. Under bonnet air con components
  7. Working radio with aerial switch and manual (not shown).
  8. Hub caps - closest one has been quickly wiped and the others will come up the same. Hole shown on top left cap
  9. Near-new Performance alloys and tyres
  10. Ok, it's more of a single garage but you get the drift. Things I have I no longer need to have are: Simmons V4 3-piece alloys. Gold centres, rebuilt with stainless bolts and a rim polish. Fronts are 15x7 with 115-120mm backspace and older Dunlop Dignos 195/50 tyres with 6mm tread. Rears are 15x8 with 120-125mm backspace and near-new Michelin Energy 205/60 tyres with 7mm tread. $800. Performance Alloys (Aussie made). Five-spoke 14x6.5 with 110-115mm backspace, fronts shod with near-new 185/75 tyres and rears with near-new 195/70 Westlake tyres. $400. Both sets fit on standard cars a treat with no suspension/bodywork mods needed. Standard 240Z hubcaps (off a 1972 car). Three in very good nick, the other good apart from a small hole. Make an offer. Aircon pump, mounting bracket (to engine), drier unit, radiator and three hoses. Basically everything aircon that lives under the bonnet. $200. Front bumper overiders. X2, good chrome and rubber strips. Front bumper indicators. Complete with wiring and un-cracked lenses. Original Hitachi radio (1972) AND user's manual. Standard radiator. No dents or leaks. R180 diff. 3.7 ratio with driveshaft and half-shafts to suit 280ZX manual pedalbox. Complete with all three pedals etc. 180/200SX standard alloy wheels... Located on Sydney's northern beaches. Pics to follow (if site allows me to upload them). Cheers
  11. Hey dat I've a master off a 280zx spare. How can I tell if it's the one you're looking for? Let me know and it might be the one you're after.
  12. So, bought the kit ($89 delivered) and now have elecky windows. Easy install, hides behind door trim and have the switches mounted in the middle so can do both windows without moving. Now just have to find some sun in Sydney...
  13. Has anyone fitted an aftermarket window kit to their car? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170736502534#ht_785wt_857 Seen them as cheap as $89 (free post).
  14. Hey Scoota Be interested to see your reaction to the coilovers. I've got the same and has made the ride harsh (tho much fun around the corners!). Roads here are pretty poor and that doesn't help. Haven't changed the shocks yet, but my gut feeling is that the 4/5kg rating is too much. Let me know how you go. Wildy
  15. Hey Yup lights are Skyline (with original chrome rings) with '70s inspired vinyl back panel. Totally reversible but not going to be. Love round taillights and they suit the car well. With no badges, I'm always being asked, "What is it mister?" Even had a claimed ex-mechanic ask if it was a Capri. The cheek! 50 cans died in the spraying of this car, six/seven per coat. Finger has just recovered. Shine is straight outta the can, still have to flat and polish at sometime. Car not built to be a museum princess, but looks tough without being over the top. This way it stays on the road without become some monster buck resto that the owner's too scared to drive. Trying to post photos but even at the lowest-res the computer says no...
  16. http://sydney.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-1974-Datsun-260z-2-2-Rego-till-31st-JAN-2012-W0QQAdIdZ326245430 Looking cheap, but no doubt could be negotiated cheaper!
  17. Hey 620Z (possibly not your real name) Pm sent
  18. Thanks for the replies, but I was after just cutting the top of the legs by the max amount I can without welding or tapping. Do you know of dampers that are just 10-15mm shorter than standard?
  19. Hi all Am looking to increase my suspension travel. Have the car on adjustable coilovers and have about 30 - 40mm travel. It would be great to get another 10 or so mm, without lowering the car anymore, and avoid the bump-stops. As I need to replace the dampers, I'm wondering if I can get cartridges that are slightly shorter and then cut the legs down by the corresponding amount. Is there anybody out there that has done this mod? If so, what dampers did you use? Also, is there anyone with a bare leg that can measure the threaded portion at the top to see if I can just cut 10 or so mm off the top of the leg, and use the standard holding nut without having to get the thread re-taped? Basically, is there a spare 10mm in the thread after the nut has been tightened? I'd rather not have to cut and weld/tap the legs. Any help would be great. 240Z (1972) Cheers Martin
  20. Thanks for looking for me, Peter. Got no joy with it at the mo so have tried all combinations. All but one resulted in no movement of the tacho's needle, but one combo has the needle jump slightly on cranking but then motionless when the engine's running. Any of you clever fellas know why and where to from here? Cheers Martin
  21. Hey there Can't answer your problem (sorry) but maybe you can answer mine. Pulled everything off the inner wings to spray and have everything back and working apart from the tacho. Was working fine before. It's the connections around the coil I want to check. I put an electronic module on for the ignition, so did away with the balast resistor. Do I need that to make the tacho work? So far I've worked out that the b/w wire should go to the + terminal of the coil (is this correct?). I've tired that but no luck. Can you tell me what wires you have coming from the terminals on the coil please? Cheers
  22. I'll be going. Yup, I have a working Z! Any others want to make a drive up there? Leaving from Nth Beaches, so can head into town for a meet. Let me know if interested.
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