Jason89

Keen to see how this goes, Im a Ford mechanic and a big fan of the barra. Setting up the Haltech elite to control the box could be a bit tricky, personally i would use the ford PCM and tune it with hptuners or similar. Keep us updated with pics. Cheers.

280zx L28 Inlet manifolds $50 each 280zx ecu, afm and airbox. $50 260z factory alloy rims, $200 I have 8 260z rims, i would prefer to sell them as 2 sets of 4, first in can pick the cleanest. Prefer local pickup for the wheels. Located in Balaklava SA

Lets see the TA22.

Roady, with that progression hole layout you can see why it would be idling at 3200 rpm with it adjusted so its visible, the throttle would be open quite a bit but i still dont think it would be drawing from the main circuit. You want to confirm your lean spot is between idle and the first progression port, not the last progression port and the main circuit. The throttle stop i made was just a bit of 15x3mm flat bolted onto one of the rocker cover bolts, i bent it to limit the movement of the linkages allowing maximum throttle to be right on the problem area. In your case adjust/ bend it so max throttle is just before the first progression hole is uncovered. Drive it, ( if there is enough throttle) if its lean when the your pushing against the stop then you know you need another hole. But looking back at your original post i think your going to be pretty close.

I just had a play around with the carbs to see if i could get it a bit better. Mine are DCOE 18, 40mm with 3 progression holes. Roady from what i understand you belive your lean spot is before the first port is uncovered yeah? To start with i made a throttle stop to limit the the throttle opening, hooked up the wideband AFR meter, then drove the car and adjusted the throttle stop to the leanest AFR which is where it missfires and spits back. Once i knew the throttle angle of the lean spot i could look down the progression ports and see what had to happen. I ended up drilling one of my existing ports out from 1mm to 1.2mm which brought the afr from 16s back to 15:1, Its still to lean but it drives alot better. Before i drill anything else im going to go up a idle jet size. Just make sure you measure the throttle angle to know where your problem is before you drill anything. The throttle stop worked well for me.

I plan to do this with my 40mm webers, start off with a .8mm hole and go bigger if you need. Interested to hear how it works out.

Ive got one here (sa). Its been in storage for many years, i remember it being in good condition. Ill get it out on the weekend and check it out.

Yes Gav is correct, i belive 958 would be a 1971 built vehicle.

Try colder plugs. You may have more heat in the combustion chamber due to a better burn.

Its not factory fitted, pm me your mobile number and ill send some pics

I pulled it all out of the car, its a unicla r12 system. Condensor and evaporator are in good condition, diesel kiki swash type compressor, serpentine type condensor with fan. It still had gas in it. A piece of the l/h dash bracket had been cut out to clear the evaporator box but i reckon you could trim the corner off the box instead. $600 plus postage.

600 maybe a bit less depending on the condition of the condensor. Let me know if your still interested and ill pull it all out and take some photos

Ive got a complete system here in a 71 240z. Ill get some details on the compressor and evap box tomorrow. Its plumbed through the main vents, not a seperate under dash evap and blower.

PM sent.

Ill dig it out and have a good inspection and take some photos on the weekend. Maybe $300.