Whittie

In my "Zed Rebuild" email folder I have an email quote from a WA group who import Watanabe's, infact they work out of the suburb I live in, for $3300. I also have a quote for a set of Rota Rb's from Sydney, including delivery to my door for $1200, followed by a purchase order and reciept..... Wat's are good, but for that sort of money there are a LOT of other wheels to have to cross off the list first.

And I only just bought mine too This is a super great deal guys, these rims are seriously good looking stock!!

This is the bit everyone wants to know tho That, and what ever it is they do to the block and crank, as I've heard a fair bit of time goes in to that as well.

I thought Rebello's top package was about $30,000...... I've done 153mph in my zed. I'd call it a stock body. 180RWHP. How much to get to 173mph? probably about 220RWHP. Of course it depends how much time and distance you have to do it in as I wasn't flatout at that speed, just ran out of room. The car that did 172MPH is on the Rebello website, it ran their 3L engine. It had headlight covers otherwise purely stock, I have front and rear spoiler, so doesn't quite count.... Quote from there webiste for a 360HP 3.2L: The "Big-Bore" 3.2 Z-Car Using the diesel crankshaft and special block preparation this long rod combination is a real torque monster. With cylinder head work, cam and an induction/exhaust system, it produces 320+ HP / 300+ lbs torque. Add tripple carbs and get 365 HP / 300 lbs torque. This engine is sold ONLY as a complete assembly. Includes block, crank and rod cores. Customer supplies cylinder head. I rekon that'll cost a fair bit more than 8k!! The real kicker is that they won't tell you what they did, you just pay the money and give them a cylinder head and they provide you with the motor. Probably so you can't steal their ideas, but still, I'd rather know what was done then just pay blindly.

Just as a reference for anyone else looking for a clutch fork, the Rb20 and SR20 gearboxes have the same forks!! In fact all (not confirmed, but educated guess) FS5W71C clutch forks should work, which really opens up options if you are stuck, most Nissan wreckers should have silvia or R31/R32 skylines somewhere, plus the gearbox is used in most manual 80's Nissan's. They are EXACTLY the same dimensions, just thicker steel for those of us using heavy clutch's. I am using a nismo product from an SR20 and it makes the old zed fork look like a wooden stick in comparison.

I bought my zed at 15. It certainly was a great idea at the time. It's still a good idea, but I did have to buy another car as a runabout. A reuild will be great fun and great pain at times, but the car will likely be off the road for weeks at a time while you slowly work away at it, so I would suggest that you don't own one as an only car. That, and the fuel mine drinks alone was enough to pay for, register, insure and run a 1.5L 4-cylinder just in recovered costs of not driving the zed 400km per week..... I do have a build thread going of where a 'cosmetic' restoration has landed me tho.... Just be aware that an old car is NOT the best first car, is NOT the best only car, is NOT the best daily driver, is NOT cheap!!! But aside from all that, you CAN NOT beat them for fun!!

It could be worth emailing the WA Z Register email group to get some more exposure. I'm not sure what it is off the top of my head, but it is listed on the webiste.

I miss all the good cruises My car is still non-functional, so I won't be able to go. Give me a few more months and I should have a pretty good highlight for the cruise

Hi Webberd six, I'm in the west and I have a 3.54 Viscous LSD for sale. Give me a pm and we can chat some more. I've only done about 1500km in it since a full rebuild. It's got a silvia LSD centre and I've had stub axlws made up that have the proper splines for the diff and mounting plates for the standard zed axles. Tom.

Hi Lachie, I'm rebuilding my car now and if I hadn't had of already replaced most things that needed replacing before starting the restoration it would be my advice to keep everything at least until you strip back your 'new' car and work out what is missing. Otherwise you'll probably find that you HAD a good part that you require and now have to go to the trouble of finding a new one, probably at a higher cost than you sold it at originally!. You never know what will/won't fit, what is/isn't working on the new car, what is easy or not to find at the time, what you'll break pulling it out of the car, etc.. Clocks, for instance, are notoriously hard to find a working copy of. Fuel tanks are another doozy. Most of the stuff on your list of sold items is stuff that I would hang on to at all cost until after you have bought the new car. Bit late now, but I would recommend not selling any more. There is no cost in keeping what you have, you certainly currently have space whilst only owning one car and trying to find stuff later can be expensive and time consuming. For instance, A body panel might look in good condition, but with these old cars you never know how much bog is really hiding underneath until you start pulling it apart. At the moment you have plenty of space, so keep all of it. When you get the new car, pick the best parts that you need for the restoration and then think about selling the rest. Better off not needing it then selling it and needing it later. If you possibly can't fit the car in the shed, what about leaving the stripped car under a car cover outside? That way it's not taking up shed space. For parts, do you have a spare bedroom? A lot of interior parts for instance don't smell and aren't dirty so they can be easily stored inside without upsetting the Mrs too much. I have put everything I have pulled off the car in stackable plastic boxes and they fit in the spare room too. Wiring looms, nuts, bolts, washers (all bagged and labelled) take up almost no space when packed this way. The best time to sell something is AFTER you know you don't need it. You never know, you might find it's cheaper to buy a slighty worse off project car where the damaged/rusted bits are all bits that you have good copies of at home. Perhaps you find a project that has shagged mechanicals but a great body, well, you have all the mechanicals, you know what condition they are in, so this would be perfect cause you'd be able to pick up the project cheap and use what you have. Just my $0.02 Also, another thing to keep in mind would be the direction you are taking the car. For instance, if your next car is definitely going to be a 2-seater, then you don't need the rear seats. If you want to put racing seats in the car, you don't need the front seats (hang on to the rails for mounting the seats tho). If you wan't to put a new gearbox in, you won't need that gearbox. If you're going to put bigger/wider wheels on and don't need a spare set, you don't need the wheels. If you're going to put in a fuel cell, you certainly won't need a spare fuel tank. If you want to put an L28 in the car and don't want to hang on to an L26 'just in case' then sell the motor. What sort of exhaust/carbies/cam etc do you have and what do you want to end up with, sell what you won't use. Then other little things like, what if your new project has a sunroof and you need a donor roof, well you may have a good roof, etc. There are plenty of things you may not know you need until after you get your next car. However, if you want to build an original car, you'd be better off keeping everything until you have assesed what you do and don't need. Really you need to work out what you want the project to be when it's finished AND the total bill of parts you are starting with on BOTH cars before you can work out if you need stuff or not.

You may find 100mm uncomfortably HIGH for everyday use. With a big motor like that you'll want stiff suspension which usually means fairly low. I haven't measured it but I think I have around 5cm of ground clearence on my zed, and that is too low for every day. Makes speed bumps an issue. I'd suggest 7-8cm as a great look and feel inside the car, but I like it firm. As to how low is it possible to go: Chassis rails on the ground

Soo much easier to just make a phone call and speak to him/his wife. He's not too up to scratch with customer service via email but get a word with him and he really knows his stuff. Also does actually have Nissan genuine guards, but be prepared to pay for them. Fiberglass not rusting is more than just a jab....

Looking good there Pete! To follow up on Pete's PM, nolathane is the best option for mounting these arms. Solid mounting is too rough on old steel. The rods use the same nolathane mounts as the original zed rods, so whatever the part number is for nolathane tc mounts for a zed is, thats the mounts to use. Nice, easy, convenient. Like al TTT parts, designed as Oem replacements as a direct swap.

There is a very extensive thread on this rim, it can be found with google. What you don't see is how badly cut up the inside of the other front rim is due to the caliper eating out the rim. The same probably applies to all of these failed rims, improper use and fitment. Rota actually guarantee their rims (12 or 24 months, can't remember) INCLUDING RACING USE!!! Find me another manufacturer that will back their rims on a race car for anywhere near the same money. /hugs Rota RB's

Alfa Motorsport Fiberglass have I think 3 different types of spoiler for 240/260. The parts are great quality and cheaper than chips!

The zed is not a heavy car, you don't need brakes that big. I too have the Commodore (VT?) brakes on the front, 2 spot, with single spot R31/280zx on the rear and THAT is overkill! Both are DEAD simple to bolt up and you can have the whole conversion done for around $1000. I have a VERY heavy 2-seater (1200kg dry) and run with this setup on the track without a single issue. I was doing 245kph to 80kph stops at Bathurst for up to 6 laps at a time and didn't go anywhere near overheating the brakes. The whole conversion can be bought new from any reputable disc brake shop, you can even get slotted discs. Get blank discs and have them drilled to 4x114.3 at an engineering shop. The Calipers on the front are Commodore/FPV 2-spots and on the rear is R31 skyline. Then buy/make the 'Maxima Disc Brake Caliper Bracket' <- forum search for that one, and you're off with a brake setup that fits under 14" standard rims and has a working handbrake. Yes, that's right, 14" standard rims! See my photobucket site and or build thread if you don't believe me.

Hey Brabham, I have their rear CV kit and would say good on all fronts. Easy to deal with, quick and easy transaction, good packaging and product. The CV joints are typical american stuff, so tolerances are probably not as good as I would like (a little more sloppy than I was expecting, but not BAD, per-se) but they are strong and so far have been very good. Also, as I imagine is the reason for this post, the AUD/US is so good it's worth buying what's necessary now while it lasts!

My Dad has been keeping close contact with Charles on this, given our distance away and need to plan well ahead, and apparently it's all in the courts at the moment, but it should be back on track for 2012. Fingers Crossed!! FOSC were given dispensation to run last year and it was always going to be a coin toss whether or not they would run this year. I do recall hearing from several people that the opportunity to run Bathurst would not last long, that's why I jumped every occasion I could, just incase something like this happened. Personally, I think racing attracts MORE than it's fair share of egomaniacs.... There is another person who sells drives around Bathurst for 5k a weekend, and he's arguing that FOSC are ripping of the council, stealing his customers, etc etc. and that's what's caused all this nonsense in the first place. Hopefully all will be sorted out soon and we can just get back to enjoying the mountain the way it was built to be enjoyed!!

As follows: Hi Tom, I don’t really know how best to say this: we are not going to be conducting a FoSC Mount Panorama Easter event next year. Selfishly, I am going to miss the pride watching the drivers’ faces returning to the paddock after their event, experiencing the fabulous camaraderie in the paddock, feeling such wonder at and pride of the flaggies returning in the evening smiling and making “high fives”, hearing continued praise for our Masters, receiving shouted welcomes and congratulations from complete strangers during the weekend and returning home and working through literally hundreds of excitable emails after each of the three years we ran at Bathurst. I am totally overwhelmed just thinking back over those only three years. Really, all of us in FoSC have had an absolutely wonderful time, taking into account all the difficulties we had to overcome to just get to the Mountain, it is the greatest experience we have all had in our time in our great sport. The friendships based on just being there together are numerous. If you were there, you know the sheer pleasure we all experienced at Bathurst. We were all part of something very very special, watching everyone soak up the spectacular moment that was “us on the Mountain”. We all came to enjoy this magic circuit, but we made it more than just magic, we joined together, driver, official, pit crew, family, everyone and we came together for a momentous period. “We ran the Mountain”, from an office or behind a steering wheel, from a flag point or in the timing box, from a tilt tray or the spectator gate, and we all made it momentous. We had no film stars or professional drivers, no models on the grid or sponsors pouring dollars into the event, we were just amateur motor sport at its best – enjoying ourselves. Unfortunately, circumstances have conspired so the “team that is FoSC” cannot overcome them for 2011, so we have decided to retain our sanity, go to Eastern Creek next Easter for a different but new event and keep our Mountain powder dry for another time. So, I am sorry, as are each of the FoSC team, but we did it, and maybe we can do it again, if circumstances allow us or another club, to bring amateur motor sport to arguably the best circuit in the world. Above all I am feeling a great hole at the thought of not being at Mount Panorama with all those wonderful people next Easter. A great circuit, but greater people, who came to enjoy! On behalf of FoSC, we hope WE ALL can do it again! My Best Regards Charles Jardine www.fosc.com.au This is very sad as I know more than a couple of people on this forum alone were pushing builds to make Bathurst at Easter 2011. I hear it has to do with a few individuals who run competing events and having a few contacts in the shire council. It's really disgraceful that people would want to pull down an event like this, it was just incredible for everyone involved! I guess selfishness got the best of this event this time. So, my car won't be going to Bathurst next year, but I might be going with my Dad and entering his '93 Toyota Supra instead at Eastern Creek, but we'll see what happens.

Indeed, the Commodore brakes push the wheel away from the struts. With standard suspension the clearence to struts on the front would be less, about 5mm I think, which would fit by a bee's whisker, but it would fit. The issue I have with clearence to the guards is all the extra track I've wound into the suspension, which pushes the bottom of the strut outwards. On a standard zed, with standard suspension, I would go on a limb to say you would fit these wheels with only requiring a guard roll, which is simple and easy.

3 October 2010 Well there were multiple requests and PM’s so here they are: Pics of the clearance of the Rota’s with the guards, with tyres on this time. PLEASE NOTE: I have extended the track on the front by about 1.5-2 inch’s over standard and have adjustable suspension all around. The car is also rolling Commodore brakes (negative offset on the front rotors compared to standard) and R31/280zx rear discs. The tie-rods for instance didn’t fit and I had to custom make new ones with all the extra track I’ve given the front of the car! Here are the pics tho, Wheels to front suspension: Wheels to rear suspension: As you can see, everything fits fine with commodore fronts and skyline rear brakes. These wheels look like they’ll fit on a standard brake’d zed without any issue to suspension! My issue however, is the clearance to the guards. On the rear, from above (mind the feet, couldn’t get a decent shot without them in ) And to the front guards: As you can see, I’m in need of zg flares to clear the front wheels, it is simply too much space to make up with rolling guards. Otomoto, have you got some carbon fibre flares in stock? Here is the car as it is at the moment, new wheels and guards: Please note that I have not yet properly fit the fiberglass fender, it needs some material cut away to sit flush at the front, so the fit is not representative of the actual product. These guards are from Alfa Fiberglass and I must say they are FANTASTIC. I haven’t yet properly tried to fit them, but with them sitting on the car, they look like they’ll be perfect. The gaps are all good and the finish on them is great, let alone the price of the pieces! I’ve had very bad experience with fiberglass stuff in the past and this has re-affirmed my love for it all over gain. I’ll post back how much work they are to fit when I get to it, but I don’t expect they will require much work, they look like they’ll fit straight on! Another issue I noted with the increased track on the front: In case you missed it, the issue is going to be keeping stones from ruining my paint work with how far the wheels stick out past the guard. I got a quote at $1000 per litre for paint, so I don’t want to be re-spraying the doors in a couple months due to stone chips, that’s for sure! I’m going to have to get some rally style mud flaps I’m afraid. As much as I hate them I’d rather not stuff the paint in one track event  If anyone knows where to get rally style mud flaps for a zed then please shout out, I have no idea.

Watching the in-car footage of the accident, you can see the astra make a move to block rather aggressively into the last corner and then pull back to the left. The guy in the astra clearly knew the zed was there but instead of taking the safe option and slowing a tad more on a wide line into the corner and letting the zed run wide and hit the wall on his own (rather likely), he turned in too early to keep the racing line, or maybe do an over-and-under and hit the zed squarely in the wheel. The barina driver must have been SOO angry at the guy in the zed tho, he had so much more pace round the bends but no grunt down the straight. I've been in the same situation and it's simply INFURIATING. Luckily for me it's not ended like this as I usually wait for them to take themselves out of the event, but I suppose this is a bad outcome for both. If it were me in the zed I'd apologise for a silly overtaking move, but ultimately it was up to the astra to NOT CAUSE the accident, and be the defensive driver which he didn't do. Two aggresive drivers into one cars space is never going to work out. At the end of the day, the Astra was in the 'second' position, in total control of his car, and the accident is his fault as he hit the rear of the zed, regardless of if the zed would have taken himself out without the shunt and he would have been much better off letting the zed all the way through and then following past out of the corner. Once your front wheel is behind the door of the car in front, you are considered second place. Until he turned it, which he did VERY quickly mind you, everything was dandy. Desperate driving by both drivers that could have worked out, but didn't due to what I would say is pure Red Mist and aggression.

The gearbox was rebuilt by Martin Falconer, the synchro's are all brand new, I believe the same style as the R33 skyline box (??), either way I'm told it's a common mod done because it's not as horrendously expensive as Porsche Brass Synchro's. The rebuild also included ALL new bearings throughout. Every gear has been checked for wear and replaced where necessary, all shafts inspected and only the best parts used. I am selling because I installed a 71C gearbox as part of my rebuild.

I have for sale a hard to find 260z Close Ratio gearbox. Fully reconditioned with late model Synchro mod on all gears and a full bearing kit. The box has done about 1000km since being fully reconditioned and the box with all the mods to it owes me over $2000. Sell for $1500. Please reply here or PM and I'll get an email and be in touch asap. I'm located north of the river in Perth and any inspection is welcome if you so wish. I can ship if you would like, but it'll be pricey due to size and weight. I can also take pictures if you'd like, but really, it looks the same as all the other 71B boxes you've seen, except maybe that I wire brushed and acid washed the casing while it was apart so it's all nice and shiney =D Ready for your rebuild as a replacement or even in a showcar

It depends what model you want. They all fit, but are 2 or 3 ring (strength perhaps?) and steel or aluminium (weight). I'd advise giving them a call and working out what you need direct with them.