Whittie

$300 for the lot. I was more interested in the value if the individual parts, shipping is really just a thorn. I'm glad to hear about the sump tho, I read some reports of poor fit, albeit several years ago, hence this thread.

Hey Guys, Well, trying not to spend money on this thing is not working very well and now I'm looking at almost a crate load of Arizona Z Car Parts but before I spend the dollars I was wondering if I could get some input please on the quality and value of these parts. I am interested in: 1x Baffled Alloy sump - $449 1x Turbo Oil Pump - $89 1x Flywheel - $369 1x Pressure Plate - $149 1x Organic Clutch Plate - $79 1x Throwout bearing and Collar - $29 All in USD, which is 1:1 or close enough at the moment. The real items that I want are the oil pan and the flywheel, but I am concerened over the fit of the oil pan and if it hangs below the cross-member/chassis rails and also how good the flywheel is? I don't know off hand how much mine weighs, but 5.5kg sounds a bit heavy to me for a full-on race flywheel? If people with these bits could post what they think, that would be a huge help. I searched but couldn't find anything that really talked about the flywheel and/or value of AZC parts. Thanks!

I didn't pull the motor so I don't have many, just pics for removing all the hoses, clips, wiring loom etc. The dash is also still in one piece from when I removed it, so I don't have the under dash pics I think you might be thinking of? Have a browse through the 'strip' pics, the interior ones and see if what you want comes up. The thing to keep in mind is I never intended for these pics to be used for this purpose. I bagged all the screws, nuts, bolts into little zip-lock bags and so that will help a lot to work out where stuff goes and then the photos were really just for the 'hard' or bizarre stuff. Stuff that I guessed I might not be able to replace even with all parts split into little bags. The dash is one example because it's really only 6-8 screws and the whole thing comes out, it was not a difficult job but then I have done it 2-3 times already.

OK, I'll try and go through and sort them out. To be honest, I haven't even really looked at the photos myself yet! I'll see what I can do about breaking things up into smaller sections and then upload them again. It'll make it easier for me when I put the car back together anyways. Perhaps 'engine bay' 'wiring loom' 'rear section plastics' etc. I was thinking acid dip but it's horrendously expensive and still won't get rid of all the oil, tar and goop. By the time I had removed all of that the panel beater worked out it would be cheaper for him to spend time sand blasting and cleaning rather than paying someone to acid bath it and then have to pay him to go around and repair all the damage that would have been done dipping it. I have been fully led by the panel beater in terms of doing the body work on this build for the lowest price possible. He's a good guy and I fully trust him, he also makes sound decisions.

Awesome, thanks for the feedback. That oily goop is some unknown oily goop. I thought it was fish oil originally but I have been told it most certainly is not. I have no idea what it was, other than EVERYWHERE through the car, presumably for rust proofing and astronomically painful to remove. I mean literally everywhere. 30 years of gravity had also run its toll and it was pooling, most noticeably in those rear compartments. Every panel, nut, bolt, crevice, hidden compartment, the backside of every piece of plastic on the entire car was covered in it. The car also had 2 separate layers of tar for rust-proofing the underneath of the chassis. The only conclusion I can come to is that the original owner, an english chap, had it re-rust-proofed as an aftermarket option when he bought the car. It certainly saved the car from the crap heap, but it's been a real pain in the proverbial to remove.

So I haven't heard anything from anyone, how are the photos? If you need them larger I'm back home now. I think I'll keep them on Skydrive for now, it seems easy enough for me to use. How is it for you guys accessing the pics??

You'll love the ceramic coating! It's true what they say about increasing the scavenging effect, the heat keeps the volume of the gasses up for a longer distance, and hence a larger effect as each cylinder exhaust gas can only pull gas from other cylinders once it reaches the collectors. I have the silver ceramic on mine and they went dull after 1 track day. They were chrome for the photo's tho, but are now a grey, White is a much better colour!! Also, it's true about the heat, I can come in after 20 minutes on the track and actually hold onto the extractors with a bare hand! It's incredible how much insulation the coating provides. It also helps keep engine bay temperatures down by a lot and with the extractors so close to the inlet venturi's it makes an even bigger difference.

No, the 278US was for rails only including shipping to wa. The rear sections don't fit and aren't necessary on a 260z, so I didn't but them. I don't know about the others in this thread, just thought I'd post about the bad dog rails.

On 6/06/2011 10:31 AM, john@baddogparts.com wrote: >> Tom - I've been out of the country and just got your emails. The cost for >> our rails (the 280 version is the one you need) with shipping comes to: >> $278.and they can be sent out as soon as payment is made. >> >> Shipping will be via USPS and should take 3-5 days. >> >> Regards >> >> John I thought $278 was good. I think that makes it $180 for the rails and $100 for shipping. They also had to be cut in half due to UPS box size restrictions.

Photos are uploading slowly: https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=a7c362341cee745b&resid=A7C362341CEE745B!103 Skydrive also took the liberty of resizing all the photos to 1600 pixels wide. So, each photo is now only about 500kb instead of 5Mb each, so that's OK i suppose. Not the super quality, but likely to be good enough. If anyone has an issue with low image quality and needs a better shot of anything then I'll upload them all again in full res when I get home and don't have stupidly slow hotel WiFi connections to deal with. Enjoy!!

Turns out Microsoft offer 25GB of online storage. It'll probably take all night but all the photos will go up eventually here: https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=a7c362341cee745b&resid=A7C362341CEE745B!103

Hey Guys, When I pulled my car apart I took somewhere in the order of 4-500 photos of every single part of the car that I though was necessary and important to remember in order to be used for putting it back together again. Bolts, cables, suspension, seats, dash, (not motor or gearbox, I didn't pull that), bonnet, hatch, door locks, windows... etc. The reason I'm telling you this is that I figured it might be useful for some people if they need specific photos of how a particular part or 2 might fit in the car. Perhaps you've pulled something out and can't remember how it went back in, what washers/nuts/bolts were used, any spacers, how wiring was run through the car. Anything. Now, my car was molested a fair bit before I got started on it and given that no 2 zeds are the same, some parts will be different, however if you need a photo of something then just shoot and I'll put them up if lots of people want them or I can email them around if it's a peculiar piece. Unfortunately there are 2.17Gb of photos, so putting them all up somewhere is not really possible unless someone can point me to a free service that will host that much data. I found Microsoft Sky Drive, 25GB free space if I can put up with using a web interface as mapping a network drive won't let you copy JPEG's, only .doc .xls etc Here are the pics, uploading slowly currently: https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=a7c362341cee745b&resid=A7C362341CEE745B!103

If you look in the engine bay of your car, from the front, on the right hand side of the brake master cyclinder, just down a little bit there are 2 pipes. These are the inlet/outlet to the heater core. The heater core is actually pretty easy to remove from the dash. I took pictures of every part of my car that I figured I needed to remember where bolts went and I didn't take one of the heater core, so I'm assuming that means it stupidly easy. The heater core itself and the 2 hoses are all that should need replacing, the rest is just air ducting around the dash. The heater core actually comes out separately and those screws that I photographed are all that need removing. Ignore the disconnecting of the flap cables YOU DON'T NEED TO DISCONNECT THEM. I did cause I'm a fool! I put all the photos I could find that seem relevant on my photobucket for you: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v621/Tommo560/260z%20heater%20and%20under%20dash/ Tom.

Given you're running an L28 (unless my memory has totally gone) then you'll want the 280z option. Be worth a second opinion given that this is the internet and someone with more helpful information will post, but I would be going for the 280z version given that's where the motor came from. The 260z is essentially the 280z, not to be confused with the 280zx which is totally different.

Cheers Peter I did a quick google and couldn't find them mentioned anywhere, except HSD coilovers, which is not quite gonna fit Any idea where to get them from and what they cost?

I'm not really unhappy and was going to put Crow back in again. The motor did 20,000 k's with a 7500rpm limit, so pretty amazing really. I think it was over-rev'd a few times tho before I got the MSD in and sorted properly, hence also a couple of wonky rods. However, broken springs are not really a whole lot of fun if the second one in the set lets go too...

I was going to start a new thread, but this one is perfect. Are those companies still the bee's knee's Lurch? I found 3 busted Crow valve springs on the motor when it was torn down and don't really want to stick the same rubbish back in again. It's a fairly mild cam too, big rev's but not a whole lot of lift really. Any suggestions on what brands or where to buy? Price not really an issue, but the cheapest supplier of the best springs is what I'm looking for. Has anyone had good experience with any specific online US websites? Cheers.

There are HEAPS of different options depending on what you want to do with the car, what you want to spend and if you want more clearance to fit wider wheels etc. You might need to define a little more what you want the new suspension to do that it currently doesn't to help give an idea. I had for the longest time: Koni Red's and King Springs. You can call King Springs and they will even make you a set to get what ever spring rate and ride height you want. They don't even charge a premium for the service! For what I think you want, I would be looking at a set of reasonable shocks and them some lowered springs. Nice and easy, drop straight in, works a treat and is cheap. You can take a couple inch's out of the zed without ruining handling or comfort and still maintain legal height too. I THINK you should get away for $500-600 new, less second hand as that's what I've seen posted before, but I don't actually know. From there, the sky is your limit. I.e I'm going Koni Yellow externally adjustable gas struts from a 300zx (I think that's what I was told), weld-on coilover sleeves, new springs and a solid captured bearing top-mount. But looking at a couple k instead of a few hundred and that's cheap for a track car!

Thanks for the kind words fellas The biggest draw back to the experience is that it is on the other side of the world. However, when you compare the cost of the whole day (It's a VIP experience) vs what they charge to do 3-5 hot-laps in a pretend V8 in Aus, it's actually fairly reasonable. They aren't cheap cars to run and maintain. The incentive was a huge help, kept me focused through the hard bits. It's been a real blessing in disguise, I would have liked to try to get into motorsport related work, but it's not something you can bank on due to such high demand and low position openings. I'm seriously enjoying the work I'm doing now and the career opportunities are plentiful and achievable, with enough time on the side to keep motorsport as a serious hobby, so I think that's a pretty fantastic compromise! Just look at my build thread, that's the perfect example of a dream come true for me, made possible through the help and assistance I've had. I will say tho that I always had aspirations of driving an F1 car as a kid, but now that I've done it I have a FAR greater appreciation for the skill of the guys who do it for a living, it's seriously hard!

I stalled the F3.... But that's ok, I deleted the video of that

Well, I wasn't sure where to put this, so I figured this was about the right spot? Not totally off-topic but not really zed related either... None the less, I would like to share this experience with all of you guys, what it feels like to drive an F1 car!! Several years ago (No, I'm not an old man despite how this sounds ) when I was in uni I was a little lost with what to do and not sure of what direction to take. I was waning between what degree to choose after 2nd year into my chemical engineering degree. Mechanics has always been my love, but I'm not sure mech eng would have landed me where I am today. My Dad figured this out before I did and noticed my marks were sliding. As a bit of a life-adjusting incentive he told me that if I made First Class Honors then he would take me to drive a Formula 1 in France. There are allegedly only 3 companies in the world that do this and AGS Formule 1 is supposedly the best, with the best track (Paul Ricard, France) being an official F1 test track. Well, 5 years after said promise, 2 years after First Class Honors and Last week I drove an F1 car!! The main reason I wanted to share this is to let people know that this is open to ANYBODY with a drivers license. It is just like any other car drive: pay your money and you get to drive! I wanted to let people who are able know that this is an option if you really want the greatest experience you can on 4 wheels. And no, I'm not getting any benefit from recommending this, I just want to share the experience and recommend that those who want to and can get to France to do it, should! We got to do 2x5 laps in a Formula 3 to get used to a single seater and a car with downforce and then 7 laps in an old Arrows F1 with a cosworth V8 transplant. This is the real deal, 650hp and 700kg with me in it. I thought zeds were quick, but WOW! Dad took some short videos which I have put on youtube and there was a professional camera team on the day who are currently preparing a 30 minute DVD of me including incar footage. I'll post the in-car stuff when I get and extract it off the disk. For now, I hope you like it: (watch them in order, it's me taking off out the pits, a drive-by, and me almost falling over with exhaustion and adrenalin after the 7 laps, in that order) You have absolutely NO idea how fast these things go, they make NO power until 8000rpm and then they just don't stop!! The funny noises during gear changes is the car axle-tramping, all the way through to 4th gear, with 12" slicks!! Top speed is limited to 290kph (rev limit in 6th) and at that speed the wind is trying to pull your head off your shoulders! I don't know what else to say other than for those with the desire, do it!

I'm not expert, but from what the guys doing my suspension, now as I type actually, say, this is what I will be running and is what they put in every 'street' track zed: 300Ib front 250Ib rear 22mm front bar 20mm rear bar They seriously stressed the 50Ib difference front to rear was kept constant. I.e with a heavy motor move to 350/300 to account for more weight but still with a 50Ib split. They also hammered me about going heavier and adjustable sway bars and said it was unnecessary on a zed. These cars like a bit of give, I've heard that a LOT of times and it certainly seems to be working well for me, I was running 250Ib front and a too soft rear in a car that was too low without roll center adjusters in the front, but still nice and soft all round. I'll see how the new suspension goes tho! My understanding of suspension in general is that the car should be lowered so that the arms are just above parallel with the ground, forget street legality - The real issue is that you do NOT want them pointing upwards from the pivot to the wheel! This will cause the track of the car to change under spring compression, which will shorten the 'lever arm' of the front suspension and load it up harder, compressing it more, shortening the track more, etc, until the rear wheel completely unloads and you spin the car. There is absolutely no coming back from that. The other thing is that to make use of really stiff suspension you need real sticky tires. R-comps are good, but they're not slicks and I would think that the route you're talking and with the spring rates you have will over power the tyre, not provide enough grip and you will either have issues with the car 'snapping' when it goes or it driving like a drifter, there will be no control past the limit of adhesion. Just my, probably totally incorrectly informed, 2 cents.

I'm a little late to the party to reply to this thread, but as an FYI I had the rear window and both side windows done in acrylic, with tinting, for $400 cash. That's heat formed to shape, cut, edges rounded, holes cut, 4.5mm (glass is 4mm) tinted acrylic. I couldn't believe how cheap that was considering I'm paying WA prices, so just thought I'd put this post up as information for those thinking of going this route and wondering what it might cost.

Snapped at the front, at the step you've indicated. almost had the wheel collapse under the car.

Very lucky escape! It was simply stress, the rods looked in fantastic condition. It was the first track event after the old man and I did 1000 k's around bathurst at the old FOSC meeting, so my guess is the dipper broke it. We'd raced the car for 5 years before this happened so it was very unexpected. However, the zed gurus around the country all said they'd heard of it before and use the poly and rubber trick to avoid it. Stewert Wilkins also does a custom, thicker, threaded rod that looks good if you need/want a standard looking part, otherwise for the same price you can get in the TTT rods. Be careful with them too tho, as I had one of the retaining nuts come loose and fall off :s I seem to be cursed with these rod issues! However, I came away fine and now just spend that much longer going over the car between events on the day and have a pretty extensive between race meets check list.