Whittie

To be honest I had no idea such pieces of kit existed, I was under the impression it was home made or nothing! If I can't find one locally, already setup for a zed, then I will purchase one of these and fit it to the car. Thanks Mossy! **Edit** In my ineptitude, I just noticed that I posted this in FOR SALE and that there is actually a WANTED board on the forum... Any chance a passing mod could kindly move this to the correct area please?

As per the title, I am looking for a rotisserie in Perth. My panel beater doesn't really want to make one and it will be cheaper to buy and or build myself than pay him to make one up. Buying is no issue, however if I can borrow one for a few months that would be preferable and I am happy to negotiate a rental fee. I need one in 3 weeks (Mid April) and will probably require it for about 2-3 months. If anyone can help, knows someone with one, knows one for sale, has one I can borrow, that would be tops!! Thanks! Tom.

Yes it will. Swap the bellhousing on the 280zx gearbox with the RB20 bellhousing, swap the counter shaft bearings and off you go... until you touch the accelerator for the first time and it blows up!!! Much better off taking an RB20 gearbox and putting a 260z/280z bellhousing on it and doing it that way, then at least you have dual synchro 2nd gear and a MUCH stronger and newer gearbox.

Bugger about the polar opposite states, I'm actually looking for one

might not be neccesary at 7500rpm, but for $200 bucks I won't notice it along side my budget blowouts... I'll send PM this weekend for more details.

The only thing with the eBay Ally radiators is that they are all IDENTICAL! As in, they all come from the same factory in china! I am not pulling your leg, I looked in to all of them when I was deciding what to do with my car and tracked every supplier back to the same factory in china. I can't remember the manufacturer tho. In the end I had cash burning a hole in my pocket and went with a PWR version, which is bigger and more efficient again than the china ones. Unfortunately, all the china versions are are an Aluminium version of a 3-core brass radiator. This makes them heavier and less efficient than a custom designed aluminium radiator, but it should still do the trick. However, the people I know with them have said good things about them and certainly no longer have overheating issues, even on the track in 40 degrees+ air temp. You're looking at around $300-350 landed from memory, depending on who you buy it from. Be warned tho, the fins are RIDICULOUSLY easy to bend, so a lot of care must be taken when installing it and working around the car. Have a look around eBay and just purchase the cheapest and or one with the least branding, to suite your taste. Did I mention easy to bend fins? They're insane!

Quote For Truth

QFT I've been in zeds since 15 (well, bought it the day before my 16th birthday ) and also say go for it! As above: get out to see a few cars in the flesh to get an idea of prices and quality and then get an inspection on any potential buys to find any hidden nasties and you should be on your way to nirvana before you know it

I run 98 in everything I own/ed and have also found that in the daily, the extra economy comes close to EXACTLY off-setting the extra pump price. I had some issues with injectors dirtying and causing rough idle in it and since the switch not only does it have a touch more response, it's over-all much nicer to drive and costs the same, or if more it's only a minuscule margin and well worth it!

Just put the tie-wire around to a point where the spring is captured and the second coil is the furthest away possible. I have not had any issues with damage to the tie-wire and given that it's not very thick, I would think that if you are getting to the point where the tie-wire is being compressed then you're likely to be having coil-binding issues, which means you've got more of an issue than damaging some tie-wire! The whole point of the wire is to make sure that inactive coil, doesn't move from the spring perch, that's all, so just put the wire where it's the least intrusive to spring spacing and you'll be fine Indeed, 7 years of racing and not one issue. Well, cept smashing up my knuckles trying to cut the tie-wire off the other day

I'm not quite sure what you're trying to describe here... When you put the wire on, make sure you wrap it around 4-5 times and this will make the wire strong enough to keep the spring from falling out. Do the wrap around the lowest part of the 'seat' where the spring is resting against the metal end plates, in its little channel, you don't want to tie down parts of the spring that aren't in full contact with the caps as this will put a lot of force on the tie-wire. Really, the only time the wire should be under stress is full droop, to make sure the spring doesn't come loose and fall out. I only just had my suspension out the other day, I wish I took photos now!!

/@ \ \ ____> \ (__O) \ (____@) \ (____@) \ (__o)_ \ \ \ Looking good mate!

Working a treat for me Can be a pain to do, but saves a LOT of hassle with the possibility of a spring coming loose and is by far the cheapest option around.

No issue's with any other sites. I'll get back to you on clear cache, but I thought CCleaner did that as part of its run? **EDIT** Clear all cahce, history and temporary files fixed it right up, Cheers Benny! Probably should have thought of that before posting

Is anyone else getting only text an no images? A bit like the attachment. It started a few days ago if anyone could help me troubleshoot that would be awesome. The issue is related to Firefox, I'm running 3.6.13 only, internet explorer and internet explorer 64bit work fine. I turned all add-ons off and it is still happening, so I dunno if it's inherent in Firefox (I think there was an update a few days ago?) or something else. Cheers!

Mat,, I am using the RSS reader in Firefox and that also misses a lot of posts and doesn't update regularly. I'm betting it'd the site, not the browser. I use the "View new posts since last visit" at the top of the page to keep updated. Open the threads you want and then hit "Mark all as read" to reset the list. Too easy.

Hey Jamo, I've got an R200 3.7 with a Silvia Viscous centre and the appropriate shafts to fit in a 260, I assume 240 shafts are the same? Cut and welded the Silvia and Datto shafts to make it all work together. The gears were in good nic and put together by a shop who also rebuilt the centre and re-shimmed it all. I ran it for Bathurst only but it was too tall for the NA L28, so it's just sitting collecting dust at the moment!! Drop me a PM if you're interested. Tom.

21 Feb 2011 Well, still waiting on the panel beater. I put that at 6 months now…. Well, to be on with it: I realised the other day that whilst the car is still doing nothing that it would be a convenient time to measure up the suspension to work out how much needs to be taken out of the struts when it goes back together. The car was bottoming out on the front suspension REALLY badly over big pot-holes, so I pulled the suspension out of the car and found that it had no bump stops… Well, that’ll do it!! The rear suspension had bump stops tho, so I dunno what the previous owner was doing to the car, but that seems a bit weird… Either way, I purchased new urethane bump-stops from MSA as part of the rubber kit I purchased and so I have 4 of them to go on all corners. However, if I’m adding bump-stops to the front I need to allow that I have lost the thickness of the bump stop in free travel, so I need to shorten the struts to the point that the chassis hits the ground, plus the uncompressible thickness of the new bump stops. Working out that bit will be a bit of black magic, but for now, PICS The first thing I did was jack up the rear suspension to check the clearance of the new rims to the guards: The tyre JUST hits the inner lip of the guard at what is a ridiculous suspension travel length, but not bottomed out. So, roll the guards nice and simple and the rear wheels will fit a treat, just like expected Whilst I was taking the springs out to measure the max suspension travel, notice the difference between front and rear springs, front on the right, rear on the left: Rear definitely needs to be stiffened up! However, for now I’m not expecting rear binding issues, so that is good An idea of how close the engine cross-member comes to the ground, I think this will bottom out first: The clearance of the front tyre to the chassis of the car with the suspension fully compressed: also notice the rusty brake disc from lack of use And a few happy snaps of the car sitting on its tits: And an idea of how small these cars are when dumped, this is a photo I took standing upright with the camera held above my head, perhaps just over 2m above the ground: So, I haven’t measured anything before I ran out of light, but I’m thinking 50mm section on the struts is required, This is a guestimate of 30mm travel till the chassis rails hit the ground and 20mm uncompressible thickness of the bump-stops. I have thin strut-tops for the rear, so that is the 20-30mm till it hits the ground and so I need to take only 20-30mm out of the rear struts. So, 50mm out of the front struts and 20-30mm out of the rear plus the proper strut inserts and I should have the suspension sorted I’ll put the car back together and see how the rear springs go, if the car is under-steering, then I’ll get some stiffer springs made up, but for now it was a pretty well sorted car. Got camber…

No Worries Wally. This is a fantastic website with a lot of knowledge, but sometimes it lacks because it just doesn't have the traffic and numbers that some of the global sites do, which is both good and bad I suppose. Good that the website is very friendly and personal, not so good that sometimes finding stuff can be hard. On the other hand tho, having acces to local solutions with Aussie products is a huge help! Have you started on the car yet? Sounds like quite the monster!

Hey Stevo, Probably not I'm afraid. The whole point is to get the air to pass quickly through the radiator. This means limiting the air in front of the radiator itself and forcing it to go around the front of the car. Someone did some maths and testing and on the road you actually only need about an air opening in the front of the car to be 30% the size of the radiator. This is for an NA btw, you may need a little larger for a turbo with the intercooler, but not much (5% at a guess). On the track, you need 25% opening!! The whole point is to stop the air backing up in front of the radiator. Air vents in the headlight buckets probably would be better than nothing, but the air is still backing up in front of the radiator rather than flowing smoothly and quickly through it. The best spot for vents to allow air out of the bonnet on a zed is about 4 inch's or so behind the radiator. Like I said, just use a black ally sheet to block off most of that opening. It'll still look awesome and it will work well too If you need some ideas, the Wind Tunnel Testing and Results forum over at Hybridz has lots of talk and plenty of pics about blocking off the front grill on zeds Mostly all 240/260 but the same principles apply, especially with the bumper you're planning, it looks a lot like some of the S30 fronts.

Looks like a few of the 350/370 front bars you can get, I like it! Takes away what is in my opinion the least good looking part on the 280. Off topics, but, speaking of 280's, I saw a SPANKING one this morning in the city (Perth) on my ride in. Was a mettalic purple and really looked the goods. Good ole smell of the L28 hand me longing for my car tho Just one tip as you go, you may want to cover in most of that opening with like a black plastic or something. It looks great but that much of a mouth will make the car want to fly! It will also likely cause overheating issues. Short of the long, big thread over on hybridz between 260DET and myself and a few others looking at engine bay cooling. Step 1: reduce the air intake size Doesn't make sense, but it actually allows air to flow past the radiator quickly and not stall infront of the car. With a big gapping hole, you get a ram effect where the air banks up but not enough can get OUT of the engine bay, so the air going in goes in really slowly, not cooling down the radiator and the car overheats. Also, it acts like an aeroplane at speed.... Anyways, have a look at modern small cars, you'll find that the grill is often one solid plastic piece, they are doing exactly as above, closing in the air openings, whilst still making it LOOK aggresive and like a gapping hole. Best of both worlds Off the top of my head, some black ally with a silver mesh glued on would look tops, but at the end of the day it's up to you. WIll be watching with interest for sure!

Your wish is my command... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/32264-complete-engine-weights-table/page__pid__253062#entry253062 There should be what you are looking for and more there. You should also be able to estimate the v8 and getrag weights close enough. THe L6 is one heavy engine, I don't think you'll be too far off. THe gearbox will be the biggest weight addition.

Gav, I've been on tonnes of forums where your first 3-5 posts have to be approved by mods, why not implement this? That way bots can spam all they want, it won't appear on the forum unless an admin agrees to post it. It could be open to all mods, and then you can leave account delete ability to just yourself. I don't know the logistics, but doesn't seem that hard to implement??

I got an estimate of 5k to do my car. That's full body prep, paint, post-paint prep, materials and labour. Of course $2000 of that is materials, so cheaper paint would reduce that price. If you just want a cheap job I'm sure someone would be happy to do it for cheap depending on how much of the pre-paint prep you are preparred to do yourself. The paintjob currently on my car allegedly cost $2000 and it's not THAT bad, leaves a bit to desire tho.

1 Feb 2010 Wowsers, 4 months between updates!!! Well, the initial target of Christmas 2010 to be finished has been well and truly past, quite entirely due to the fact that I got pushed down the order by the panel beater and the car has literally been sitting idle with almost no progress since the last update back in October. Well, not entirely true: since October I have finished stripping the interior, fuel tank and brake/fuel lines and removed the last of the tar from underneath the car (Effort!!). With the car now a complete bare shell with absolutely no attached parts I was able to assess the rust. Please bear with lots of photos, but honestly, for an English car there is almost no rust! This next one is not very clear, it is the passenger side tool box, you can see there is some rust at the seam where it joins the floor. There are a couple of holes here, but nothing huge. This is also not very clear, but it is the passenger side of the boot, looking towards the side of the car, a couple of pin-holes above where the exhaust is underneath the car: The panel beater should be able to sort out most of that pretty easily. I have access to a good condition spare wheel well, depending on if the panel beater wants it and I also bought from the states a brand new replica rear hatch panel, so he can just cut out the old one and weld in a new one. $120 from MSA, an absolute steal! Whilst I’ve been waiting I also ordered a few extra goodies. I always was sick of the crap headlights in the car and the shiverty method of the headlight current traveling up and down the steering column, so I bought some 8000 Kelvin Xenon headlights with all the proper relays to re-route the current away from the steering column so that I can see at night I also finally got around to getting some plastic windows, fully formed, shaped, holes drilled and cut to size. The windows are all the same thickness as the standard glass (well, 4.5mm versus 4mm with the glass) and are moulded to the shape of each original window. $350 got me the rear hatch, door windows and quarter windows all done in acrylic with tint! Here is a quick pic of a rear quarter window with the tint: So that should be winding plastic windows ticked off the list. I then got a phone call from the mechanic: Engine is out of the car and what do I want to do? Well, got plenty of time, but here is a new API Racing Harmonic Balancer. 3 Piece Ally construction with a new crank adapter, good for warranty with 1200 HP But then came the bad news, engine builder got on to stripping the motor: Pistons are all scored (ie, air filters are f’d), couple of bent rods and the big end bearings about to seize. Just think, Dad set a PB at the last event before the motor was pulled. Bring on the rebuild! So, currently trying to get new pistons @ 87.5mm, new rods, new rings, bearings, stud kits, and some head work for more compression cause at 240psi the motor was still screaming for more advance with the dizzy wound off the dial. The best news of all of this though: On Australia Day I got a call from the panel beater and the car is due to go in to his workshop in 10 days!! Aside from the fact that he did 2 joba ahead of me, I’m just excited that the car is finally progressing again! Now I just need to purchase the last few bits and pieces to get the car sorted. I finally got the paint code so I can purchase the paint, I ordered new Redline Filters. I wouldn’t normally think enough of filters to post pics, but I got these from the states, with 3 replacement filters for $200, where the EXACT same with K&N stamped on them would have been more like $500 locally . Here are the pics of these blatant knock-off, yet same quality products: The final thing to do was to get new nuts and bolts. About a month ago now I took my box of sorted and labelled bolts to some friends of mine who trade as the “Metric Men” who are also datto nuts and sell nuts and bolts for a living. I walked in, dropped the box on their desk and told them I need new of EVERYTHING in the box, brand new nuts, bolts, washers, grommets, the works. I’ve not been back since, but I’m sure they are working on it. This is shaping up to be one NICE build, despite the budget blowouts…. Well, that’s it for now. This weekend I need to remove the last tar from the wheel wells before the car is trucked to the panel beater where he will soda blast the car, replace the roof, fix the rust and repaint it. Be sure, plenty of pics will be coming your way in the next couple of weeks/months as I keep track of the panel beaters progress PS, Oh, one last thing, first round of the local regularity series isn’t until June now, looks like that’s the new deadline to be finished and have the car complete, together, shaken down and ready to race.