Whittie

Yeah mate, plan is to have it ready for the PI historics. Not a chance I would tow it over, way too long. Much easier and cheaper to stick it on a truck

I just booked at the Cowes caravan park. Minimum five night stay for 'event' weekends for a deluxe villa 2 room 2 double beds 4 people. Wish I'd looked here, woulda booked the ramada instead! $120 per night. So, I'm going to go down thursday and just leave a night early on monday. Taking the missus's down who have never been, so be good to get a couple days of attractions in to keep them sane

Anyone know where to buy 260z carbon tail light panel? That looks so awesome!

Hey Dimitri, Happy to work out some quotes for you, shouldn't be too expensive. I'll take the tyres off if you like, keep the weight and size down some what.

Hi Guys, Just bumping this to the top. My storage solution is about to be taken away from me so I would like to see this stuff go to a home where it will be used!

Ooh, now they look fancy. I think I'll get the panel beater on to it if it's that easy!! Thanks for the tip Pete, huge help!

Bumpity Bump. I've found some as-new reco'd seats and a race seat that I've added to the list as well. Tom.

Hey Guys, I'm a little late to the party, but who do I call to get one of these? Thanks!

Hi Guys, I've been having a hunt around, but I'm not getting anywhere so I thought I might ask here. I'm looking for: - Stainless steel tank straps (280z). I know they're available, I just can't find them. Needs to be 280z to fit my car - Tank strap rubbers to fit - Rear hatch window rubber, new. They use to be easy to find, but can't seem to locate a new one any more If anyone knows off the top of their head where to go, or has some they want to sell, please chime in!

I bought my bell housing for $20 I think, certainly not much more. Also, I'm biassed, I think the.sr20 is the most proper option, but the rb20 works well and you can modify the shifter, but it needs a lot of adjustment to get it to come up right, so I went the sr20 route

Buy a 71C from an SR20 and then a L28 bellhousing, it almost a direct swap, just have to ream out the selector fork holes, skim around the counter bearing and use the bearing from the 71B gearbox. If you use the 71C gearing, you have to ream out the counter-bearing hole too If you use the SR20 box, the shifter comes up in the perfect spot but have to shorten the tail shaft, if you use the RB20 box, you use the same tail shaft but have a shifter that hits the dash. both require fabricating a new gearbox mount

As far as I'm aware there is nothing available. However, even if it was it would still be significantly cheaper to just drop in to your local Clark Rubber with a sample of each rubber and pick from their relatively extensive collection. Cents a grommet.

Want! Pair (left and right) those clear lenses are awesome! Also looking for brand new front indicators (ones that mount to the bumper, NOT the ones that sit in the spoiler) and a complete set new rear tail lights (260z)

Scoota sounds like he's on the money I've got a silvia R200 in my car and it has different flanges. If you can get the drive shafts from the 2+2, perhaps that would work? I'm not sure on drive shaft lengths, but maybe.... Otherwise, you may need to do what I did: Cut the flange off the shaft and weld on the flange from your previous diff. Not a lot of fun for the shop that does the work, but been working great for me, twice.

I would avoid sand-blasting Sand-blasting, especially if you have a lot of material, as you do, generates an enormous amount of heat. The steel used to fabricate a zed is VERY thin and small applications of heat can cause catastrophic warping of panels! Trust me, you should have seen my last bonnet - welding buckled it - and new roof, same story. Used in the right areas (floor and other re-inforced parts of the car) sand-blasting is fine. Otherwise, get yourself outside and kitted up (breathing apparatus is a good idea, plus appropriate protective clothing) and go bonkers with some ammonia based paint-stripper Otherwise, just sand it, much safer. It's a pain, but you'll suffer in panel beating if you try and cut corners at this stage

How far is it from the main town? Stumbling distant from the restaurant strip is usually a good idea on weekends like this

Hii Dimitri, Thanks for the pics, we'll take it to PM. I'm looking for the square (ish) yellow indicators, the small ones that fit on top of the bumper and Also the ones that mount in the guards in front of the wheels. I'm just looking for rust free quarter window frames, I have acrylic to go into the frames, but mine have split in half with rust

I see it hasn't been mentioned yet, but my car actually has a sticker on it!!! No joke, someone has just stuck a kph sticker over the mph numbers. It sounds silly but I've actually seen it a lot and it sounds a lot simpler than some of the other options here. Works fine except the trip counter obviously still reads miles.

Haha, my car finished! No, not finished, probably never at this rate too

Nice looking car! I especially like the guard vents I bet she goes like the clappers too

Bumpity Bump Prices dropped across the board!! Item, price history, new cost for new items Spoiler $30 (50) Tail Shaft $150 (200) Wheels $500 (550) (650) (750) Exhaust $100 (150) Sunroof $20 (50) Guards $550 (600) (new 690) Master Cylinder $100 (150) (new 250) Diff $1,100 (1,200) (rebuild cost 1,500)

Hey Guys, I'm trying to chase down (preferably new, or as-new condition) for 260z: - Front indicators (the ones that mount to the bumper) - Front side indicators - Rear tail lights I've found some second hand tail lights that I'll take if nothing comes up, but I'd really like a lead on some new ones if anyone knows where they can be found, my searches have come up unsuccessful. Also, a few other bits and pieces that I realised I'm missing, second hand is fine but the better the condition the better for me: - Quarter window frames (Left and Right) - Hatch glass mounting rubber - Z logo emblems for quarter panels (want shiny as-new ones if possible) - Front grille (would like a brand-new one) - Toolbox handles (I just need some plastic washers, but if they're good nic and shiny I wouldn't mind new handles as well) Reply here or send me a PM if you have anything. Happy to pay postage if required from other states, I'm in Perth. Thanks, Tom.

Now there's a good idea. Perhaps I can get a a DADSON logo fashioned up in ally, that'd be a nice touch. I thought I was being unique spending up on a nice rebuild, but you're right SS30, there are HEAPS of nice cars floating around now. It's fantastic to see some love going in to these old classics and hopefully we see more than a couple at the nationals being used in anger. I'll be there for sure, I've already put in my leave request I did a 2:02.2 at PI in 2007, I reckon a 1:50 would be pretty nice We'll see how that goes tho.....

Garr! So, today I got the news that it looks like we'll be starting up a new well this weekend and so I'll be working from home to help the guys through it. So much for a weekend with no-one at home to interupt me!!! I'll see how this wiring harness goes, but I got a feeling I'll be spending most of my days staring at a computer screen watching squiggly lines go up and down instead of working on the car making squiggly lines of my eyes trying to fit this harness back in..... Actually, when you put it that way, doesn't seem quite so bad after all...?

24 June 2012 And so the rebuild begins. Actually, correction, the restoration hasn’t actually finished yet. I forgot about the fuel tank and so I’ve employed Will’s skills again to restore the tank on the car. It has a leak somewhere and I was going to get a new one, I even bought one, but this car is such a mash up of 260/280 that I actually couldn’t find a tank in Aus in better condition that will actually fit in the car!! So, Will gets to enjoy splitting it, lead wiping it, knocking the dents out and then refinishing it, He’s just over the moon to still be working on this car Okay, I lied, he’s sick of it and promised me he’s not going to do it for weeks! However, back home, the car was delivered yesterday and I’m straight back in to it. I just got a letter asking for entries for motorvation in January and so the new goal is to have the car built, shaken down and performing tip top ready for the Elite Pavilion at the show. Motorvation is Perth’s biggest automotive show, held at the Kwinana Motorplex the show runs for 3 days with over 1,000 entries every year. It used to be a real jap vs aus show but over the last few years most of the jap guys have stopped attending due to the frankly disgusting attitude of the local bogan brigade towards ‘ricers’. However, the datto has always been well received by all types and this would be huge exposure for the car and my sponsors if I could get in the Elite pavilion. The Elite pavilion is typically reserved for the cream of the cars at the show and is a reserved marquee just for the best cars. The tent is a destination in itself at the show and all cars are eligible to take part in Elite Pavilion entrant only cruises and driving events to display their cars so this would be ideal if I can secure a spot and have the car ready in time! The rebuild started with the Wiring loom: To be perfectly honest I have been ridiculously slack over the past 12 months whilst the car has been at the panel beaters and I didn’t do any preparation work to get the car back together. As such, the first port of call is to clean all of the grease of the harness. If anyone’s been following from the beginning they probably remember all the pics I took of the grease pooled in all the nooks and crannies of the car. Well, those same nooks and crannies were those that the wiring harness is hidden in and as such the harness is a MESS. I firstly laid the harness out on the ground in an approximation of the layout that it will be installed in the car and then I got busy with rags and degreaser. The first pass was to wipe the cabling down with a soft rag (beach towel I stole from the cupboard!! ) and then I went back over with a second rag (another stolen beach towel ) wet with cleaner/degreaser. As I went along I also disconnected all plugs and hosed them with contact cleaner. This car has always suffered from silly electrical problems and it wasn’t until this day that I realised why: The connectors were filthy!! I don’t mean dirty, I mean absolutely covered in grime, dirt and filth. No wonder the electric didn’t work properly, I’m surprised any electrons at all could pass through all that rubbish. 2 days, $60 of contact cleaner and $20 of degreaser later and the harness actually looks brand new! I was tossing up whether or not to rewire the whole car, but to be perfectly honest, except for 1 dodgy bit of wiring around where I had installed the stereo and central locking without removing the dash to get to the right wires, it’s all in fantastic condition. 1 July 2012 First day of the new month and new financial year and we’re off to a bang. Just before the end of the financial year Stivva dropped a good link on a brand new 280z center console for only $200 including delivery and I just couldn’t help myself. You know, end of the tax year and all… whatever, I could so I did Considering this car is a 280z body, with a bunch of 260z pieces just to keep me on my toes, I decided that a new 280z console to replace the badly cracked old console would go really nicely with the new everything else in the car. The dash will be getting a re-skin and along with new seats, gear knob and a slathering of Alcantara, it’s only proper that the console is not broken…. Whatever, I could so I did, I don’t need to justify it to anybody! I’ve been absolutely flat on my back at work and only been able to get 4-5 hours total in on the weekends, but today I did get started on pulling the tail lights apart. I don’t have any photos, but they’re stuffed. Some fool of a previous owner must have been struggling with fumes entering the car from the rear end (I know, normal for a zed) HOWEVER, instead of fixing the obvious holes that used to be in the floor in the boot, they decided to pull the lights apart and glue them back together. That’s right, why use a rubber gasket when you can use half a can of industrial plastic glue! No, I’m not kidding. I managed to get one lens out after about 2 hours of gently prying and then 45 minutes into getting the matching indicator lens out, it failed catastrophically. So, lucky me, time to get some new ones If anyone has some good contacts on Tail Lights for a 260z I wouldn’t mind getting some quotes for brand new ones. By the time I get second hand ones and then clean and polish them then replace all the gaskets, I would probably be up to new lens prices anyways. That’s all for now. The folks are away this weekend so I’m using the excuse of babysitting the cats to get a good solid 2 days of work in on the car. I want to have the wiring harness fully installed and the fuel filler and tank breather hoses all installed. I was going to install the lights, but that can wait. I will however, then be able to start re-installing the trim pieces in the boot. One last thing before I go, how about a quick poll: I stupidly forgot to get the aerial hole in the rear, passenger side of the car, filled by Will and I’m not planning on actually installing a radio in to this car. Too much weight and you could never hear the old one over the weber’s anyways. So, plug it with a black grommet, or go buy a stubby aerial just to make it look complete? I’m quite partial to the grommet idea, cause it’s cents instead of dollars and grams instead of dozens, but Dad seems to think it’ll look rubbish, so I’m calling for all opinions on what you guys think. Well, this flight is about to land (yup, more flying and writing build threads) so that’s it for this one. Oh, don’t forget, those in Aus, I have a bunch of stuff for sale that I’ve upgraded on the car and you can pick it up cheap cause I need to clear out the shed ASAP! Ok, really, that’s it, I’m done.