Whittie

dat2kman, that was what I wanted to do straight up. Unfortunately the 280zx tie-rods are only 10mm longer each. The issue with the 280zx rods, I believe is that only the tie-rods from a series 1, non power steering, 280zx will work. When they updated the car and added power steering the steering system changed and isn't compatible. I'm not sure about only one side tie-rod working, I never got that far into looking in to it after I worked out it wasn't long enough. Either way, I needed 40mm extra length and so 280zx tie-rods were still not an option. If you don't need such a large amount of extra length tho, then the 280zx mod is a great fix. NZeder, keep us updated with how you go with the parts number list. This works great, but surely there is more than one car in the world that the tie-rod will fit from. Zedman, I'll measure them when I get home and let you know. I pretty much took the standard tie-rod and the new one to the engineer and said "I need an extra 40mm" and he cut it up and welded it together. The lenght you go will depend on your application. 40mm for instance, almost is too long for my car with 3.5 Neg camber. However, I cannot adjust less than this due to the length of the lower control arms so I wanted the longest tie-rod I could make in case I ever wanted to increase the camber/track in the future.

Cheers guys! Really, at the end of the day, its a simple fix, but without the turn of luck getting the pedders state manager on the case, this could easily have turned out different. Wow, first stickie, my dad was stoked to hear it and so fast! I'm glad people can get something out of this, the zed community is great and I'm all for open information exchange.

Custom Tie-rods for Datsun 260Z As many people in front of me, I have come across the limitations of the front steering tie-rod length on the Zed. With new TTT front control arms with a minimum 3.5Degrees negative camber I have 6 degrees toe-in… You should have heard the tyres protesting on the way home from Wheels World!! So, the challenge was on. Plenty of people said that the only way to go is custom because nobody makes a tie-rod that fits and gives the range of movement and extension we required, about 40mm. So, 280zx tie-rods were no good but still, SOMETHING had to be done. I couldn’t go with a rose joint setup because I still have relatively standard suspension and the huge suspension travel would bind even the highest movement rose-joints I could find. Despite being told it couldn’t be done by plenty of people on this forum, my Father decided that everyone just hadn’t tried hard enough… Sure… We went to about 6 or 7 suspension mobs in town, who all couldn’t get us out of their shops fast enough, before My dad ran into the State Manager for the Pedder’s suspension mob who, after hearing about our poor reception at several of their stores, measured up the standard zed tie rod pitch, thread and thread height and got the national R&D department onto the case. It took them 3 days, but they came back with a solution! A threaded tie-rod off of a Ford XY Falcon! It has the same pitch, thread height and thread as the zed tie-rod. In short, it fits in the standard steering knuckle without any modification! To complete the tie-rod I used: - 2 RH thread Falcon Tie-rod ends, Pedder’s Part #PTE391R (Bursons auto parts. Road Safe brand part number: TE391R). These come off an XT-XW-XY Ford Falcon from 1968-1972. For those in the USA a 70-74 Ford Maverik, 70-73 Mustang (all models) and 69 Boss Mustang all use the TE420R - but what is interesting is that one US website lists a moog part number for these US based Fords and get ES387R which has imperial threads (go figure) So that explains the weird thread you found it is .687-18R at that molly tube and .500-20 on the top of the ball end tapper thing. - 2 Datsun RH thread rack-end ball joints - Chrome-molly tube, cut to the extra length you require - Steel nuts to fit on the tie-rod and the rack end to act as lock nuts and another set to weld onto the chrome-molly tube to fix to the nuts. You then simply tap the Steel nuts and then weld them into the chrome-molly tube. I then had mine electro-plated so the steel nuts don’t rust. Using all Right Hand threads means that expensive and difficult to find 14mmx1.5 LH die’s don’t have to be found to tap the nuts for the LH thread ball joint on the standard Z steering rack. Also, because the ball joint in the rack end can spin the tie-rods can still be adjusted on the car by spinning the ball joint end instead of turning the tie-rod itself, very much the same as the standard suspension. However, the thread on the Tie-rod is a really weird size and nobody in town could supply nuts of the correct thread, they kept telling us it was like a Hydraulic fitting thread. Therefore, we had to have a machine shop make up the nuts and plugs for the tie-rod end of the middle tube. And here are the pics everyone has been waiting for: New rod next to old one demonstrating the extra length of the new tie-rod. The middle section of the rod A blown-up view of all the pieces And finally, the new tie-rod on the car. The angle look great and I’m not expecting any bump-steer but I’m yet to drive the car so can’t comment just yet. Versus the non-modified tie-rod: Here is the in-board side of the new rob, showing how it all mates up. Nothing binds even at full droop. And here is the clearance with the stock 14” rims and with TTT Roll centre adjusters fitted as well. With any luck this mod will be useful to someone looking to avoid going full custom rose-joints on this part of the suspension, as well as fitting on COMPLETELY STANDARD SUSPENSION. Total cost for both sides came in at around AU$300 for all parts and machining, but could be replicated for less given a few hiccups with attempting to get everything to work together.

18 July 2010 Well I got back from work last week and flew out on holiday the next day, but I arrived last night and got stuck into the car today before flying out again this week. Wow, this is getting hectic! Today I took a look at making up a bug/stone guard for the radiator as I talked about last update and also had a crack at the headlight covers I bought 4 months ago. I’m not slow at things, honest…. Here is the radiator guard, simply some aluminium fly screen wire to keep the soft aluminium of the radiator safe. Believe me, you need something like this with the ally radiators! I folded the top underneath the rubber that seals the bonnet and down the bottom I simply used some zip-ties. A nice and simple mod that should be very effective. And then after 2 hours to fit the driver’s side, and 10 minutes to fit the passenger side, the new headlight covers in all their glory with the new bug guard making a cameo appearance: And how it should all look when the front wheels are back on the ground: Tomorrow the car gets the tie-rods fitted after being picked up from the electroplater’s and then she’ll be driving again =D =D =D Keep posted for the tie-rod upgrade, I’ll shortly post plenty of pics and part numbers to replicate the mod. I can confirm now that the mod works with the standard 14” rims, even with roll centre adjusters, and doesn’t bind over the full range of motion of the standard suspension!!

I have no experience with Hurricane extractors but if you are going to bother with extractors at all, why not do it properly. I REALLY like the Stahl Headers but just couldn't afford them when I was looking at buying due to dollar and high shipping cost. I spoke to Stahl and got all their specs (pipe length, diameters, etc) and got a local guy to make these up: Here they are against the standard headers: and here is the before and after dyno graph. +12 RWHP, +35 RWNm Cost for making them and ceramic coating was about $1700 IIRC. The issue with anything from the states is that it is designed for a LHD car. The LHD cars have to contend with steering mechanisms and other gadgetry that isn't installed on that side of the RHD zeds. This means, by restriction, these headers are NEVER perfect for a RHD car since you are wasting space avoiding things that are installed on the other side of our RHD zeds. You should find a guy who can custom make them and get them done properly for your application to get the best result. The guy who built mine used the Stahl specs as a guide and adjusted to suite what he thought was a better design and our requirements (Mid range torque, high range power) and he slightly altered the collector lengths and so-on to suit. I can ask again but I'm fairly certain the guy I used kept a 'mold' so can knock up some more for a bit cheaper and faster. I wont post any more pics (going a little over-board) but this album here shows the fitment and clearance of the custom extractors for anyone interested http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v621/Tommo560/Datsun%20260Z/Tuned%20Extractors/

Ideally I wouldn't have to lose the zed, but considering mine is pretty much just a weekend warrior I've considered a few alternatives and will purchase in a couple years I suspect: Mk.4 Toyota Supra. As above, VERY nice cars. Hard to find a non-molested version tho, especially an aero. My Dad has one, but as a 93 model it's starting to show its age. M35 Nissan Stagea AXIS. Take a V35 skyline, make it a station wagon and then give it to AUTECH for some extra mumbo. We're talking 3.5L V6, 4wd, 6 speed manual, full leather, sport suspension, twin sunroof, twin sat nav/TV screen, 18" Chromies, blacked out tint, 18 (something silly) speaker BOSE stereo and more than enough grunt to pull a zed on a trailer. Just gotta find space for a trailer.... Evo X. This one would be playing with the devil cause I'd probably modify it enough to compete outright in the local supersprint series and then it wouldn't be a very comfortable daily.... Evo 8. Cheaper and lighter than an Evo X but not as nice/probably too old when it comes time to buy. Similar issue with replacing the zed and then wanting to turn the zed into an improved production car.... V37 Skyline. Plain old nice, luxurious, good looking and rare. V35 Skyline. Cheaper than the V37. Maybe too old VW Sirocco R. Gotta a thing for hatchbacks and station wagons and this is one of the best, plus extra points for rarity. Live the Evo X, a bit exxy for a car that will see less than 5000 k's a year

I followed this procedure and then some when I did my conversion. I have compiled a document about the procedure including missing information around gearbox varieties, gear ratios, fitment, modifications, miscellaneous gearbox information and data and lots of pictures. Unfortunately the document is 1073kB in size (even with ridiculously low picture quality) and I can only upload 1024kB of data to this post. I have uploaded the document to HybridZ and just wanted to share it here as well. The thread can be found here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/75401-l28-transmission-swap-options/page__view__findpost__p__881963

I've got a tutorial to post as soon as I can find the pictures and put them on a server for fitting a 71c box and everything that is involved or not depending on the route you want to take. What exactly do you need the ratios for? If it's for a 71c conversion I can flick you a copy of the tutorial. It's about 11mb tho, so can't post up here, I'll need to convert to text friendly version

Man, I didn't even realise the last one starting at the beach was about 200m from my house till after you guys left! And this time my car is off the road I'll make one eventually Ross!

That's a good looking car there mate! I didn't realise the body was in such good nick. Looks like almost everything mechanical except the motor is in need of repair though. You're surely going to learn a lot about cars as you do this project. In the image you attached you can see what appears to be the rear suspension offset to the drivers side. If the previous owner hit that curb hard enough he could have done some serious damage to the suspension. I'd not be driving that car at all until it was fixed if it were me. It's not me, but it just looks like an accident waiting to happen. The rear subframe assembly that was offered earlier sounds like a good deal! Fix the mechanicals, get some nice wheels, lose the silly seat covers and it will be one really nice car.

Thanks Dimitri! That certainly looks like a perfect fit. What model are those seats? I'm going to go and try a few next week with any luck. Speaking of which, does anyone know of any stores in the Brisbane CBD area that sells race seats? I'll be there next week with time to spare but no transport other than busses.

I hate to be the bringer of bad news, or be a downer, but surely you can find a better car to start with for not much money and it will surely be cheaper than trying to fix this one. By the sounds of it, this car is nearly totalled? It certainly seems dangerous to be driving on the road! If the interior is nice why not keep it as a parts car and buy a car in good mechanical condition. Surely you could find a decent car for a couple grand, less then the bushing kit alone for this thing.

Well, considering the more than moderate amount of time I have, do and will put into painting parts on my car, I would like to hear what you have to say. Perhaps you should start another thread instead of tacking on to this one and share your knowledge.

+1 for Martin Falconer. You might need a second mortgage depending on how much you want done though. To be fair, it's A1 work and you'll never have to do it twice tho.

Not sure about log book. But there is actually no where else to fit a cage and a seat, so we'll have to see what happens. Might modify the mount to get log book then put it back. The rear hoop sits BEHIND the seat, so you aren't going to hit that, and the bar along the roof is padded, so that is not an issue. Basically, to hit exposed hoop you'd have to snap the seat. In that case, hitting the hoop with your helmet is not #1 priority.... Cage: You can see the clearance here sort of: Note that the seat sits forward of the main hoop. Maybe this is a slightly better photo? Not home at the moment so I can't just duck out and take one. **EDIT** I think I found the seat I'm after. The suggestion of the Cobra seats got me looking and I found the Cobra Suzuka Pro. It's a Fiberglass/Kevlar frame instead of straight Fiberglass and is slightly smaller than the Sparco's. $1200 from revolution racegear, or $750 +shipping from the UK http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/Seats_&_Accessories/Seats/Cobra_Suzuka_Pro_Kevlar_Seat/1761/4876/13330

The seat I have rubs the door bar on the leg support and can't go all the way back because it hits the main hoop. I'll find a pic and post

Yeah I have the brochure, been looking through it. I LOVE the look of the corsa, especially the full height leg supports!! The seat I have at the moment is nice and skinny. The skinnier the better! According to the Sparco brochure tho, the Rev 5 is the skinniest 'wing' seat they make. 580mm, the Corsa is 600mm, same as the EVO. If people are saying the EVO doesn't fit, how does the Corsa?!

Damn, that sucks. Does anyone know WHY the wings on seats are so wide these days? Is it some new design safety feature or it just 'looks cool'. Personally, I hate it, and not just cause it wont fit in my car! Hmm, I'm trying to make this car without all the little quirks that many people put up with. I'd rather it was done 'properly' and it didn't have to sit off cente. At the end of the day, If I can't find a seat then this is what I'll d, But at this stage, I'd rather not.

I'm in Perth and found mine in Sydney. It was sitting with Warren at All z Parts and he rekons he had about 50 people after it in the time before I could pick it up. Good on him for not selling it to someone else!!! Moral of the story: look further abroad and pounce when you find one!

The thread NZeder is talking about http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/55944-windtunnel-test-data/

I don't know about the 280zx units, but the china/msa/USA/all the same eBay alloy 240/260/280z units for $400 are pretty good value. They all originate from the same guy in china (I spent a long time looking) so it doesn't matter who you buy from they are all identical. They're are pretty good quality and at half the price of the Ozzy made products (desert cooler, PWR) they are great value for money. You'd better build a stone 'screen' in front of any ally radiator tho, I stuffed a heap of fins on mine and all I did was install it!!! I went to bunnings and bought some aluminium fly screen that I'm going to attach to the back of the grill. That way I keep the grill (I think it looks great) and have effective protection from bugs killing my radiator. Yes, bugs. These radiators are super soft! I have the same spoiler as you so you might want to try that as well?

I think you're missing the 7 infront of the 3 there matey

The Davies Craig Thermo switch Kit i bought for the PWR rad had a really snazzy bit of rubber that came with the kit. The bit I used with the copper wire was just a really thin (like 1-2mm) bit of some rubber tube I found lying around somewhere. Use a stanley knife to put a little groove in it for the copper wire and bob's your uncle. Just make sure the bit of rubber is really thin, otherwise you'll get leaks around the edge of the rubber square even tho it'll seal on the copper wire.

What didn't fit, were the wings too wide or the leg supports? Hey Roberto, Recliners are no good for me as they aren't FIA approved, for a road car tho, they look fantastic! BTW, thanks to the mod Lurch, who sorted this thread out!

Cheers Hodgo, I wanted to do exactly that mod, but I still have standard shocks and just didn't think that a rose joint would provide enough range of motion to not bind up. The engineer had the same thoughts so that's why I am persuing this other, much more difficult, route. RB30x, the thermo switches come with a small, thin, square of rubber with a groove for the copper wire. The rubber sits between the wire and the radiator with the wire in the groove and the radiator hose seals around that, providing the seal. It can take a try or two to get a good seal, so if you do get a thermo switch make sure you run the motor and check for leaks before driving off.