260DET

Bastard, my best is 2:16.3, will give the other 300ZX a go in out of the box spec. Of course the pressure is now on you for top times at Bathurst, I'm just a slow old bloke in an auto lol.

So if they are Group T cars then they would usually be invited to SC, as long as the Porker mob don't object.

It will be interesting to see what spec the two imports Gordon mentioned run and if they will be allowed to run as is. What's the deal with this?

What PZG302 said. As for Jason's comment about Sc Supercars, take that with a grain of salt. Maybe two grains lol.

Yes, don't use body filler, I was thinking of something like a metal two pack which will actually bond with the body, there probably is a special product around to do this though. But what Gav says makes sense as usual, think about what you want the car to look like now and in the future.

Mine is a PS4 with a Logitech wheel and pedals, is there any way to get this to shift sequentially? To replicate my real car. Still trying to mesh driving with a monitor to the real thing where I drive (looking) ahead most of the time, still it is good practice but must remember, hitting walls for real has consequences

For a low car adjustable coil overs are essential for all sorts of practical reasons including if Mr Plod says it's too low. Bilstein > Koni too.

Nah, I'll leave the S30 to you experts but thanks for the offer. The 300ZX is more like my real car too so it's good to get used to the high speed challenge plus don't put the power on out of a corner too soon lesson. I defy anyone to do a 2:30 in that S30 out of the box, it's evil. There is a YouTube video around of a S30 kicking arse but so far the author has not owned up his tweaks.

The Green Monster to beat the Golden Arrow?

The S30 was giving me a complex so I graduated to the 300ZX LM which behaves itself most of the time and it's actually possible to catch it sometimes. Driving Skyline is great fun, plenty of attitude one way and then the other there, flat through the Kink a couple of times without losing it later. 2:33 is pretty good in that S30 and that's a realistic fast real time too. The LM is almost scary fast on the straights which helps times lot, 2:18.5 out of the box is my best so far.

Once you put heat into fixing the holes you know what's going to happen don't you. If it was me I'd look at countersinking the holes a touch and then use a proper adhesive with something like flat nail heads to fill them. Be interesting to know what a pro would charge to do it properly, The Lurcher would have a fair idea.

Real or game PB lol? I have yet to put a complete hot lap together, flat through the Kink has about a 50/50 success rate, the problem is getting the car through smoothly enough to brake for the next corner. I'm still having trouble adapting to the game play, my 280ZX is way sweeter to drive in reality but the times are not that much different.

If you can get a set of Bilstein dampers revalved to suit your chosen springs that would be a good investment and give great ride and handling.

That's a handy looking driving setup, good one. Yeh, I have the same problem coming down off Skyline, car takes ages to settle. Overall I love the game even if there are lots of peculiarities it certainly helps familiarity with the nuances of the circuit.

So how did it go on 24 August? You did mention doing a Lemons type event which is just a bit different to doing sprints. Significantly more engine oil capacity would be my #1 priority there.

To start the ball rolling, one of my faverit S30 race cars, this one from the Bob Sharp stable. The front looks good although I'm not sure about the aero but what makes it a standout are the guard bulges to accomodate those delicious wheels. It was up for auction recently, hmmmm........

No, the inserts I've made are lighter and much stiffer and the job will cost way less than that old fashioned way.

Jason, you need to keep up with modern technology, a fibre optic micro camera is going to be inserted in all the hard lines to check on their condition. Chuckle. Actually the lines were drained as soon as they were removed and have been hanging up in the shed so they could continue to drain, the fluid looked good with no sign of contamination. But they will probably be replaced anyway, will have some metho run through them to see.

Oh well it swill be interesting to see if it cracks or not, the whole idea has been to make the inserts part of the roof which would be best as far as structural strength goes.

Will blow some metho (sans raspberry cordial) though the lines and take it from there, if they are dirty then they will be replaced. I have seen new brake lines split so there is no rush to get new ones, flexible hoses yes, replace those with braided.

If these inserts flex then I'm in trouble, in other words if there is sufficient flexing force in the roof to flex the inserts then ^#+%%#@* No bog in this car if you please, I'll be making the filler using vinylester resin so it will have structural capacity, the inserts were made using vinylester resin too.

My thinking is that a flexible adhesive may lead to cracking of the filler used to blend the tops into the body work. Bunnings list lots of Sika products, Super Grip 30 Minute Adhesive seems to tick the boxes, has anyone used it?

Was able to change caster and camber on the 240, it now drives like a car which makes things fun and involves much less swearing.

Removed the targa top inserts from the moulds, they were moulded directly off the glass T tops to give a smooth interior surface as the outside has to be finished to blend in anyway. Trimmed them up and in all modesty they are ace, light yet rigid. After gluing them in the tops will be blended in using a light weight filler I'll make up myself. Any glue recommendations? Car is still waiting to get the cage done but waiting for this is apparently traditional anyway. Have started to prepare the bonnet mould, making a bonnet incorporating big vents is the next big job, then the front spoiler which will involve some extensive plastic surgery. Anyway, pics of the top inserts.

Other than blowing air through them, is there a DIY way to do this effectively? Like using a strong solvent forced under pressure through them or even a mild abrasive.